Rear hatch key lock

[Bills98Explorer]

Can you have the rear hatch key lock rekeyed??I was wondering because The 1 in mine is all seized up and I had another set up given to me but it didn't have the key.

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

Yes, you can...i did.

 

[Bills98Explorer]

Yes, you can...i did.

Just take it to a lock smith I take it???????

 

[dock]

Was that easy to replace? Mine is completely fubed because I had to break in to retrieve my keys In doing so, I pulled the rear window enough to bend the locking mechanism. I'd love to replace it.

 

[Bills98Explorer]

its a PIA but very doable in about 30 minutes.
I just need to find a lock smith,and I'll have all my doors lockin again.
With x-mas shopping right around the corner I don't wanna make it any easier for thieves.

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

Just take it to a lock smith I take it???????

Any decent locksmith can do it...mine wasn't sure, at first, if he could do it without cutting the wiring harness to it, but in the end he made it work with no problem.

Was that easy to replace? Mine is completely fubed because I had to break in to retrieve my keys In doing so, I pulled the rear window enough to bend the locking mechanism. I'd love to replace it.

I might have a latch assembly for the glass if you need one.

I had such a problem with corrosion inside the liftgate that i had to overhaul the whole thing. I got a quote of $119 for the entire workings inside the hatch (including latches & actuator) from ped5stang, but I was able to find another member who had no use for the guts of a tailgate he had lying around and got the stuff free...SWEET!!!!

Getting to the lock cylinder isn't that terrible. Take the interior trim panel off, remove the actuator rod from the white/yellow cylinder clip and undo the wiring harness connector. Forceably remove the (presumably rusty) horseshoe-type clip from around the cylinder...this may take the most effort of the whole job. Then, IIRC, you twist the cylinder and pull it out.

After having no keyed entry into the X for almost 2 years as all were frozen (stupid keyless entry), it was sure nice having a backup plan should the keyfob/keypad/electrical system fail.

LMK if you have any Qs.

 

[dock]

I might have a latch assembly for the glass if you need one.

I had such a problem with corrosion inside the liftgate that i had to overhaul the whole thing. I got a quote of $119 for the entire workings inside the hatch (including latches & actuator) from ped5stang, but I was able to find another member who had no use for the guts of a tailgate he had lying around and got the stuff free...SWEET!!!!

Getting to the lock cylinder isn't that terrible. Take the interior trim panel off, remove the actuator rod from the white/yellow cylinder clip and undo the wiring harness connector. Forceably remove the (presumably rusty) horseshoe-type clip from around the cylinder...this may take the most effort of the whole job. Then, IIRC, you twist the cylinder and pull it out.

After having no keyed entry into the X for almost 2 years as all were frozen (stupid keyless entry), it was sure nice having a backup plan should the keyfob/keypad/electrical system fail.

LMK if you have any Qs.

Nice! Is that the assembly for the actual moving lock in the gate, or just the piece from the window? I think I need at least the closing latches, I might have to take it apart first to see what else would need replaced in the process. Can you replace that piece w/o replacing the key insert?

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

You need "closing latches" for the liftgate? or the one for the window? If all you did was pry the window to get at the manual lock thingy, you may get away with just the glass latch, which i believe i have...not sure what else, though. I may have a liftgate latch and/or a couple of sensors

I overhauled the entire liftgate (latches were frozen from rust and wouldn't keep the liftgate closed, lock cylinder had the same problem) and threw out the stuff that wasn't salvageable.

Take a pic of what you think you need and eMail it to me (click on my name in the sig) and i'll see if i've got it and for how much.

 

[dock]

Hey thanks man. What year is that for? Mine's a '99, and I assume they're all the same, but on my window there's just a little U-bar thing, that is what the latches cling on to. I think what happened was that one (or both) of the latches bent a little, because it's rattles now when I drive (until I stuffed a t-shirt in there). Then eventually it just stopped opening altogether. The moving latches are pretty thin, but regardless I'll take some pics and post them so you can see what I'm talking about.

- To get in all you have to do is pry the left side of the window* far enough to get your arm in and hit the rear unlock button.

*Side effects may include sore arm, bent latch/lock, and suspicious on-lookers

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

*Side effects may include sore arm, bent latch/lock, and suspicious on-lookers

Too Funny!

Yeah, from your further explanation i know we're on the same page. Yes, i believe my 96 is identicle to your 99 in form and function.

As long as i didn't dump it in the trash when we dumped the X at the dealer
(about when the wife started *****in' about the explorer crap laying around the house (see FS post in sig)) i should have it in the shed...

...only problem is that the kids lost both keys to the lock so i need to find a set of bolt cutters to get in.

 

[dock]

Hah, well at least it's pretty secure, if even you can't get in

Update: I heard a new rattle this morning, so I pulled over and the right-side hinge that holds the window up has unscrewed itself. Now to search on how to get inside the hatch and find the screw...

 

[Mbrooks420]

Does the lock button push in , or does the key just not turn in it? If it just doesn't turn a soaking of WD-40 will usually get them freed up.

 

[dock]

Does the lock button push in , or does the key just not turn in it? If it just doesn't turn a soaking of WD-40 will usually get them freed up.

EDIT: Just realised you were replying to Bills98. I second that, if it just stopped turning give it a few squirts of the WD.

I do that to my door locks about every 3-4 months when they start acting up - it works great. (first time I took it to the dealer and they charged $40 to grease them )

 

[MattHarrell]

Not to hijack this thread but the power door locks don't seem to have any affect on my hatch lock. It locks and unlocks fine with a key. I looked inside the hatch and everything seems to move fine but it doesn't unlock. Any ideas what I should look for? I'm going to have it open this weekend anyway to replace the wiper motor

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

Matt - do you hear any type of "buzzing," as if a small motor is spinning, when you press lock/unlock? If not, then your power lock actuator is not connected to the wiring harness. If you so hear something back there, your actuator is either A. Broken; or B. Not connected to the main mechanism via the actuator rod.

Either way, it's an easy fix.


DOCK, i made my girls clean & search their room for the keys to the shed, and whattayaknow...i now have them both! I DO have the glass latch for ya if you want it. It's a bit corroded from sitting in the damp shed but works with little effort. It could use a good cleaning/greasing but works fine. $10 and it's yours (shipped).

(i did take a couple pics of it and will post'em in a bit)

I've also got the complete hatch wiring harness, a litfgate latch that i repaired (needs a bit'o cleaning/greasing but works) and a liftgate latch sensor (which may work with other doors (?))

 

[MattHarrell]

Matt - do you hear any type of "buzzing," as if a small motor is spinning, when you press lock/unlock? If not, then your power lock actuator is not connected to the wiring harness. If you so hear something back there, your actuator is either A. Broken; or B. Not connected to the main mechanism via the actuator rod.

I don't hear a buzzing but I do here it make the usual noise like the rest of the door locks when the actuator gets power. That's probably what you're talking about.

When I got the truck it would lock or unlock about 10% of the time so I figure either the actuator is loose or is going bad. I'll take a look at it when I have it apart this weekend and see what I can find

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

Pics:

The liftgate latch isn't worth the shipping, b/c its rusted up again from sitting, but i'll show the pic so that those who need to fix theirs can see what i did to mine (drilled out the pivoting rivot for the actuator "elbow" and used a nut & bolt to put it back together.) Grease it up well and you're good to go...these are $50 at the sDealer.

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

I don't hear a buzzing but I do here it make the usual noise like the rest of the door locks when the actuator gets power. That's probably what you're talking about.

When I got the truck it would lock or unlock about 10% of the time so I figure either the actuator is loose or is going bad...

From what you're saying, it sounds like what happened to mine. The actuator rod connects to the actuator via plastic gears/teeth and one side of the teeth are broken. It will work on occasion, if it sits just right, but other times the gears don't meet and the motor & gear just spins. If you need to replace the actuator, you DON'T need to drill the rivet. You can twist the actuator right out of the bracket that holds it in place. Good luck.

 

[MattHarrell]

Thanks - that might be it. Are those teeth on the actuator or the rod itself? Just wondering if replacing the actuator would fix it or if I need a new rod

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

The lock actuator and rod is a one-piece unit and would likely need to be replaced to fix your problem. When you get into yours, you'll see what i mean...

...UNLESS the actuator rod is just not connected to the main lock mechanism, but you said it worked "10% of the time" so that can't be it...if that was the case it would never work