Rear Liftgate Woes...

[Fisher_White]

About 5 days ago, I decided to try to fix an alignment issue with the rear liftgate of my '98 explorer (there was a slight gap in between the passenger side rear quarterglass window and the rear liftgate, but not on the drivers side). I just barely loosened the four bolts that hold the rear hatch to the hinges, adjusted the door, and then began to close the door to check the fit when the whole door slipped down and shut itself closed! (Note: I had just removed the latches to repair the actuator, so it didn't actually latch closed).

When I tried to pull up on the liftgate to open it back up, I was able to open it for about a foot and a half before I was met with a very load GROAN- the door had shifted a great deal when it slipped, and the top lip of the rear liftgate was being pushed into the very rear edge of the roofline of the truck. Unfortunately, this caused a very slight buckle on the top of the door (see pics), and the 1.5 foot opening made adjusting the door again very difficult with a socket set.

Fortunately, with the help of a friend a few days ago, we were able to get the door open all of the way by squeezing into the 1.5' gap and using a small 8mm wrench to loosen the bolts more to adjust the door. Now, the door opens and closes freely without hitting the roofline, but there is now an even bigger gap on the right side, and now, the top and right side of the door.

I have repeatedly tried adjusting the bolts where I has previously loosened them (where the hinge meets the door) with no success of getting rid of the gaps. I have no idea whats causing the issue, so I'm hoping someone on here might know how to fix it (hopefully, without needing to replace the entire hatch- most of the buckle can't even be felt, and the two areas where you can feel it are very small and not that deep).

PICTURES: https://www.flickr.com/photos/76191390@N03/albums/72157681096828425

Thanks

 

[toypaseo]

@MONMIX

 

[MONMIX]

@MONMIX

What?

Oh...

Okay, lots going on here. I think you not only bent the hatch, but did a good tweak on the hinges. Don't cry, this is nothing to road flair the explorer over.
First the pain in the rear part. The BEST way to adjust the hatch is with the shocks OFF. They will continually push and that usually doesn't help. Yes I know the hatch becomes VERY, VERY heavy when the shocks are off. Eat a bowl of Wheaties for breakfast.
Next remove the striker. You don't need that dictating where the gate goes.

With the shocks out, and the striker out close the gate and look at that you have got.
The 8mm that go into the gate give you mostly UP and DOWN adjustment. ( a little in and out as well ) The bottom of the hinges that go into the body ( 10mm possibly 11mm I can't recall at the moment ) it is going to take some digging, both figuratively and literally to get working with them. Getting inside the headliner is a pain, but depending on how much adjustment you get out of the 8mm's you just might have to go there.
Additionally the hinges to the body are buried in seam sealer. Screwdriver, scraper, whatever it takes, you gotta get those hinges freed up to slide around.
The bottom hinges are as self explanatory as it comes. Slide the hinge away, the gap opens. Slide the hinge in the gap closes.

It will likely take more than a few tries and back and forth and some choice words that you better not let your Momma hear you say. If she does tell her I told you not to use those words. I don't want her getting mad at me.
Get your gaps and lines where you want. Make sure all bolts are good and tight. put the shocks back on. A fine tune and tweak is possible. once that is good put the striker back in. Make sure the gate hits smack dab center and pulls in tight one, two clicks.

Lastly seal those hinges to body parts up.

Good luck and let me know if you need anymore help.

 

[Prince_Polaris]

I don't want to make a whole new thread for this, and this seems like one that's pretty similar. You know the little plastic tubes that the door closes onto, that are on those two metal things sticking out for the latches to grab onto? One of mine is broken, and therefore the door either thinks it's ajar when it's not, or it rattles because it's trying to grab onto a piece of metal that's a lot smaller than the metal thing. is there a way I can replace it...? I can remove the one currently on it, but that's because it's broken, how would I get a fully-intact one onto there?

 

[MONMIX]

I am not positive if you are referring to the latch or the striker. Either way, both are replaceable.

 

[Prince_Polaris]

I am not positive if you are referring to the latch or the striker. Either way, both are replaceable.

I hopped onto google and managed to find a picture of exactly what happened to me! it's not my car, but this plastic thing here is what is broken for me http://i.imgur.com/g5quZFt.jpg

 

[Fisher_White]

I don't want to make a whole new thread for this, and this seems like one that's pretty similar. You know the little plastic tubes that the door closes onto, that are on those two metal things sticking out for the latches to grab onto? One of mine is broken, and therefore the door either thinks it's ajar when it's not, or it rattles because it's trying to grab onto a piece of metal that's a lot smaller than the metal thing. is there a way I can replace it...? I can remove the one currently on it, but that's because it's broken, how would I get a fully-intact one onto there?

Those would be the door striker bushings. They are very cheap (like 5 or 6 bucks for a pack of 4) and easy to replace. I need to get new ones for all of my doors.

 

[Prince_Polaris]

Those would be the door striker bushings. They are very cheap (like 5 or 6 bucks for a pack of 4) and easy to replace. I need to get new ones for all of my doors.

All right, cool! I guess the pin thing comes off somehow? Do you maybe got a link for where I could get 'em?

 

[Fisher_White]

All right, cool! I guess the pin thing comes off somehow? Do you maybe got a link for where I could get 'em?

The door strikers (metal pins) are very easy to remove. Just unbolt the striker with a ratchet + T50 torx socket. There will be ~4 silver washers and 1 black washer on the end. Remove these, slide the new bushing on, and reinstall the washers and striker. Takes about a minute for each side

I can't post links to any specific websites, but the part number is going to be Dorman 38424.

 

[Fisher_White]

Here is a quick photo guide that I put together:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/76191390@N03/albums/72157678846116432

 

[Prince_Polaris]

The door strikers (metal pins) are very easy to remove. Just unbolt the striker with a ratchet + T50 torx socket. There will be ~4 silver washers and 1 black washer on the end. Remove these, slide the new bushing on, and reinstall the washers and striker. Takes about a minute for each side

I can't post links to any specific websites, but the part number is going to be Dorman 38424.

Okay, that sounds easy, I'll have to do it once I get a job again!

Here is a quick photo guide that I put together:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/76191390@N03/albums/72157678846116432

Ahh, I see, it's just a bolt, but why is there so many washers?

 

[Prince_Polaris]

Ooh, I think I found them: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-38424-Tailgate-Liftgate-Assortment/dp/B000COCRHI