Rear Shocks Replaced

[Saffer]

I would imagine you can do this without raising the vehicle if the sway bar is not under tension, but it might make it easier if you do.

Block the wheels jack up and place on jack stands to make sure you are safe.

I just went with the best recommended shocks my auto parts store had in stock.

 

[gatzdon]

I wonder if this is going to be a common issue (along with all my other issues).

I'm at 55k miles and my passenger rear shock has oil all over it. According to the dealer it's done.

Autozone is now carrying KYB Shocks for my vehicle with lifetime warranty. After coupons, they are about $20 per shock more than RockAuto, but I think Autozone is much easier to work with for warranty exchange. I plan on keeping this vehicle for the long haul (if it will last), so I will most likely be replacing these a couple more times. It's worth the few extra bucks to me to deal with Autozone. Right now, I'm looking at $160 for both shocks.

The last photo that saffer posted showing the easiest way to get at the top nut is showing not available. Does anyone have a pic they can post for that?

 

[Saffer]

I wonder if this is going to be a common issue (along with all my other issues).

I'm at 55k miles and my passenger rear shock has oil all over it. According to the dealer it's done.

Autozone is now carrying KYB Shocks for my vehicle with lifetime warranty. After coupons, they are about $20 per shock more than RockAuto, but I think Autozone is much easier to work with for warranty exchange. I plan on keeping this vehicle for the long haul (if it will last), so I will most likely be replacing these a couple more times. It's worth the few extra bucks to me to deal with Autozone. Right now, I'm looking at $160 for both shocks.

The last photo that saffer posted showing the easiest way to get at the top nut is showing not available. Does anyone have a pic they can post for that?

Not sure why the picture is MIA, here it is again. Not very clear, but from the rear seat, there are storage trays, within the trays there is cover right above the mid point of the wheel, use a small flat screwdriver and lift it out from the small gap you can see below, this will give you access to the top nut.

 

[leaderjoe]

I caught my 2014 right rear shock leaking within warranty. Was told "not leaking enough" for warranty replacement. Told to not clean it and let it get "worse". Worst shocks and disappointed at dealer as well. Escalated to customer service and got no satisfaction. Finally replacing them. Not sure why pics are gone but would have been helpful. Still struggling to remove top bolt. Not sure how without removing plastic fender well. As it keeps turning.

 

[Saffer]

Leaderjoe, removing the inner fender will not get you to the top bolt.

I just took some new pictures.

This one show how to remove the access panel, here I have a small hook inserted, then just pull up to remove the panel.

Once removed, here is the top bolt. Usually you can hold the shaft with an open ended wrench and then loosed the bolt, without some specialised tools, there is no room here. Maybe you get a helper to hold the shock upper while you get a socket in here and loosen the bolt.

 

[leaderjoe]

I can access the top bolt from inside car now - using extension socket to get down in there - but then I cant hold the stem. I'm amazed this is so difficult for me. From below, a partner cant really hold on to anything because it is perfectly round.. from above? I have an open socket and even tried to place it inside the container - yet the stem then must be manipulated. Absoutely correct - without special tools it is near impossible from my perspective. I have impact wrench and it just clacks away without doing anything. I tried breaker bar and it just spins the nut. I am close to getting my milwaukee jigsaw and going to town on the entire interior... yes, I am indeed that frustrated. Thank you SO much for your reply. In typical fashion - the photos are not appearing on my browser - and I even tried Safari AND Chrome. Sigh - UPDATE: FINALLY got it off using impact wrench and not stopping until it finally gave in... VICTORY! Also pics are now visible - they were blocked due to opendns filtering.. awesome photos all. Thank you!

Leaderjoe, removing the inner fender will not get you to the top bolt.

I just took some new pictures.

This one show how to remove the access panel, here I have a small hook inserted, then just pull up to remove the panel.

Once removed, here is the top bolt. Usually you can hold the shaft with an open ended wrench and then loosed the bolt, without some specialised tools, there is no room here. Maybe you get a helper to hold the shock upper while you get a socket in here and loosen the bolt.

 

[Saffer]

Glad you got it

I can access the top bolt from inside car now - using extension socket to get down in there - but then I cant hold the stem. I'm amazed this is so difficult for me. From below, a partner cant really hold on to anything because it is perfectly round.. from above? I have an open socket and even tried to place it inside the container - yet the stem then must be manipulated. Absoutely correct - without special tools it is near impossible from my perspective. I have impact wrench and it just clacks away without doing anything. I tried breaker bar and it just spins the nut. I am close to getting my milwaukee jigsaw and going to town on the entire interior... yes, I am indeed that frustrated. Thank you SO much for your reply. In typical fashion - the photos are not appearing on my browser - and I even tried Safari AND Chrome. Sigh - UPDATE: FINALLY got it off using impact wrench and not stopping until it finally gave in... VICTORY! Also pics are now visible - they were blocked due to opendns filtering.. awesome photos all. Thank you!

 

[JAPeterson]

I caught my 2014 right rear shock leaking within warranty. Was told "not leaking enough" for warranty replacement. Told to not clean it and let it get "worse". Worst shocks and disappointed at dealer as well. Escalated to customer service and got no satisfaction. Finally replacing them. Not sure why pics are gone but would have been helpful. Still struggling to remove top bolt. Not sure how without removing plastic fender well. As it keeps turning.

You should of sprayed a can of WD40 all over the shock before you took it in.

 

[gatzdon]

Rear Shock Replacement - with pictures

First, I'll apologize, but I didn't take as many pictures as I could have, but I think I got the ones that count.

If you plan on keeping this vehicle for the long haul, it's worth it to buy lifetime warranty shocks and replace them yourself. These shocks are so exposed to the elements and will most likely need replacement a couple of times.

I would rate the difficulty as easy. About as easy as replacing brake pads.

For a novice like me, I would estimate about 1.5 hours to replace the first set (everyone goes slower learning it the first time) and about 30-45 minutes each subsequent time.

If you are replacing the shocks yourself, please replace them in pairs. I won't debate the pros/cons, just my opinion that your life will just be easier.

Here is the link to the album I created with the pictures.
2012 Explorer Rear Shocks

Tools needed were:
15 mm Open Ended Wrench
15 mm socket
17 mm socket (breaker bar helps)
Flat Head Screwdriver
8 mm socket (with about 6" extension)
17 or 18 mm Open Ended Wrench (I used a 3/4", but that's not the right size)

Key steps:
1. Jack up the vehicle using the unibody lift point (please use the right type of jack so as to not crack the paint). Use a jack stand for safety. You don't have to lower the vehicle onto the jack stand, just have it under there just in case. Do not lift the vehicle by the suspension. You will be starting over at this step if you do

2. Remove the tire.

3. Remove the upper nut on the rear sway bar linkage. You will need an open ended wrench to keep the stud from spinning. You do not need to remove the lower nut, the linkage will swing out of the way.

4. Remove the lower bolt on the shock. The nut is welded in place. A breaker bar helps, but many will be able to remove it with just a 1/2" ratchet.

5. Remove the upper nut. Inside the vehicle, the storage trays have a removable piece of plastic you can pop out with a flat head screwdriver. Hold the nut steady with an open ended wrench and spin the stud with a socket. You will need an extension for the socket.

6. At this point, the old shock can be removed and the new shock put in place. Your new shock will most likely have a different sized nut/stud and a non-welded nut for the lower bolt.

7. Use Silicone Lubricant to help assemble the pieces for your new shock and fully seat the lower rubber piece in place before putting the top pieces on inside the vehicle. Tighten the new nut down until the upper rubber piece is squished. I believe it's supposed to be about 15 ft/lbs, but someone can confirm for me if I'm off.

8. Put the lower bolt/nut on the shock and tighten. I believe it's supposed to be about 40 ft/lbs, but someone can confirm for me if I'm off. There is not a lot of stress on the lower bolt, but you don't want it vibrating the nut loose.

9. Put the upper nut back on the sway bar linkage. I believe it's supposed to be about 15 ft/lbs, but someone can confirm for me if I'm off.

10. Put the tire back on and repeat for the other side.