Rear Shocks Replaced

[Saffer]

Rear Shock Replacement

The dealer just informed me that my rear shocks are leaking at 47k miles, quote just shy of $500.

I checked with my local Autozone and PepBoys but no shocks in stock, so will have to order them. Also no Haynes manuals available yet.

I figured I would do it myself but was wondering what is involved. Anybody done this before ?

From peeking under the rear fender, it does not look like one can reach the top mounting bolt. Does the inner fender need to be removed for this job :scratch:

Updated with photos and how to, see below

 

[gatzdon]

On fordparts.com, a local Lincoln dealer shows

18125 (ASH-12337) Shock Absorber 2.0L EcoBoost (250PS) (Rear) $60.04
18197 Shock Absorber Upper insulator (Upper) $5.41

my dealer gives about a 20% discount off the Ford MSRP price.

Entering your VIN to helps filter for parts specific to your vehicle, but not always so read the descriptions carefully. I assume your rear shocks are difference than mine if you have AWD.

 

[Saffer]

Ordered the parts, just need some guidance on whether or not the inner fender should be removed to get access to the top mounting bolt.

 

[Saffer]

I ran into some issues replacing the rear shocks, the following will save you a lot of time if you want to do it yourself, takes about 1 hour.

After removing the shocks, one had zero resistance left, completely shot. The label Made In china said it all.

First, the stock shocks have the bolt on the bottom mount welded onto the flange. I broke two sockets trying to remove this bolt

To remove the bottom bolt if you have the stock shocks, you will need to remove the bottom sway bar control arm to get to the bolt side that is not welded. If you already have aftermarket shocks, you can remove the bolt from the other side.

To remove the top bolt, from the inside remove the plate in the trays, a simple flat head screwdriver can be used to pry this loose then remove it and you have direct access to the top bolt. The photo below shows the plate removed. It was not necessary to remove the inner fender.

 

[Bill #5 Explorer]

So, for the past several months, I've noticed that the Explorer's ride has really diminished. It's gotten rough and unsettled, not bouncy, just not anywhere near as good of a ride as when new. Oh, and I now has over 125,000 miles.

Tires are good and new this summer. My dealership noticed that the rear shocks showed some signs of leaking, so I authorized them to be replaced. Here's the breakdown:

Rear Shock Absorbers/Struts
FMC DB5Z 18125 G Shock Absorber Assembly $118.18 each ($236.36 for both)
FMC CG1Z 18197 A Insulator $7.64 each ($15.28)
Labor $139.20

Total with sales tax was $361.60 (I had a $50 competitor's coupon )

While not perfect, and not as good as when new, it's better. I plan to replace the front struts (more expensive...about $550....and not leaking) in Jan/Feb. This should improve things again a little more.

I know part of the problem is that the Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season Plus tires have a much firmer sidewall, and this adversely effects the ride comfort. Tire are great for all other aspects- tread life, traction and quiet. Tires were replaced about 10,000 miles ago. Alignment is good.

 

[dco43054]

I guess that's not too bad. 125k miles.

Mine has 70k+ miles and is riding fine.

I'm amazed the brake pads are still good.

 

[Bill #5 Explorer]

I guess that's not too bad. 125k miles.

Mine has 70k+ miles and is riding fine.

I'm amazed the brake pads are still good.

Lost of highway driving, is my guess, just like me. Rear pads will go first, I bet, due to the Explorer's traction control system. It uses the rear brakes. I got over 80,000 miles on my pads and rotors.

 

[dco43054]

Lost of highway driving, is my guess, just like me. Rear pads will go first, I bet, due to the Explorer's traction control system. It uses the rear brakes. I got over 80,000 miles on my pads and rotors.

Yeah. And I should look at them soon before it gets really nasty out there and I have to replace them in the middle of February.

 

[PooPooSandwich]

Same thing with me but I'm barely at 56,000 miles!!!!!!!!! My Mazda3 lasted over 100,000 miles with her shocks and I know I rode a little rougher with her!! They must not have a good brand...LOVE my Explorer but I may head back to Mazda if I keep having maintenance issues early on.

So, for the past several months, I've noticed that the Explorer's ride has really diminished. It's gotten rough and unsettled, not bouncy, just not anywhere near as good of a ride as when new. Oh, and I now has over 125,000 miles.

Tires are good and new this summer. My dealership noticed that the rear shocks showed some signs of leaking, so I authorized them to be replaced. Here's the breakdown:

Rear Shock Absorbers/Struts
FMC DB5Z 18125 G Shock Absorber Assembly $118.18 each ($236.36 for both)
FMC CG1Z 18197 A Insulator $7.64 each ($15.28)
Labor $139.20

Total with sales tax was $361.60 (I had a $50 competitor's coupon )

While not perfect, and not as good as when new, it's better. I plan to replace the front struts (more expensive...about $550....and not leaking) in Jan/Feb. This should improve things again a little more.

I know part of the problem is that the Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season Plus tires have a much firmer sidewall, and this adversely effects the ride comfort. Tire are great for all other aspects- tread life, traction and quiet. Tires were replaced about 10,000 miles ago. Alignment is good.

 

[ObsceneJesster]

Same thing with me but I'm barely at 56,000 miles!!!!!!!!! My Mazda3 lasted over 100,000 miles with her shocks and I know I rode a little rougher with her!! They must not have a good brand...LOVE my Explorer but I may head back to Mazda if I keep having maintenance issues early on.

Luck of the draw I suppose. The OP's shocks lasted 125,000 miles.

 

[Bill #5 Explorer]

Same thing with me but I'm barely at 56,000 miles!!!!!!!!! My Mazda3 lasted over 100,000 miles with her shocks and I know I rode a little rougher with her!! They must not have a good brand...LOVE my Explorer but I may head back to Mazda if I keep having maintenance issues early on.

Do you tow anything, by chance? I do not, FYI.

Tomorrow, my truck goes in to have the front struts/shocks replaced and a 4-wheel alignment. I think it will be about $700. Now at 132,000 miles.

 

[PooPooSandwich]

No, I don't tow or carry anything heavy. I drive a lot of fwy/hwy. My parents sold me the car at 40,000 miles about 7 months ago so I've already put 16,000 miles on it.

Damn, $700!? What kind of struts/shocks are those that you're getting? I have never heard of those. Have you used them before? I am trying to find reviews on different shock brands but can't find any.

Everything is fine, just the leaks in my shocks. I'm thinking about just replacing front and back so keep them even.

I've even thought about lowering the Explorer so this might be my chance since I already have to get those parts replaced.

Do you tow anything, by chance? I do not, FYI.

Tomorrow, my truck goes in to have the front struts/shocks replaced and a 4-wheel alignment. I think it will be about $700. Now at 132,000 miles.

 

[MarkM]

I honestly wouldn't take my car to a dealer or shop to have something as simple as struts and shocks replaced. It's relatively easy to do, and you can get some extremely good quality aftermarket struts and shocks that will out perform the OEM in every aspect. I had some Ranchos on a truck I use to have that I worked quite hard, and they rode great and lasted about 60k. Not bad at all for carrying 3,000lbs+ on a normal basis.

 

[Mishtar]

Mine only have 48k miles and they said they are leaking and need to be replaced. Seems fast since all I do is drive on the highway to work and back.

 

[RSNovi]

I am glad I found this thread. I have 95k on our 2011 and the oil change at the dealer said the rear brakes needed to be replaced and had one leaking shock. I thought it was weird that the rear brakes wore first, but it sounds common along with the shock.

Maybe I will plan to do the repairs myself as they wanted close to $700 for the rear brakes and to replace one shock.

 

[Deyoecw]

Thank you very much for the info. I removed the inner wheel well only to find out you can't get to the top nut. Then I started to think I was going to have to remove all the interior plastic on the sides of the explorer to get to this nut. You saved me a lot of time & heartache. I really do appreciate the info. Thanks Chris.

 

[Deyoecw]

This is a great forum. I appreciate the correct info. I work at advance auto & I will pass the word around about the great info given.

 

[Saffer]

Thank you very much for the info. I removed the inner wheel well only to find out you can't get to the top nut. Then I started to think I was going to have to remove all the interior plastic on the sides of the explorer to get to this nut. You saved me a lot of time & heartache. I really do appreciate the info. Thanks Chris.

 

[cwescapexlt4x4]

I guess they weld pretty good in China, give them that if you broke 2 sockets.

 

[pboyle8]

Question, I have the same leaking shocks on my '14 explorer. Can you replace the shock with the vehicle on the ground vs raised? Also, what brand did everyone use? While I am at is, there must be ones better than OEM