Rear Shock Replacement - with pictures
First, I'll apologize, but I didn't take as many pictures as I could have, but I think I got the ones that count.
If you plan on keeping this vehicle for the long haul, it's worth it to buy lifetime warranty shocks and replace them yourself. These shocks are so exposed to the elements and will most likely need replacement a couple of times.
I would rate the difficulty as easy. About as easy as replacing brake pads.
For a novice like me, I would estimate about 1.5 hours to replace the first set (everyone goes slower learning it the first time) and about 30-45 minutes each subsequent time.
If you are replacing the shocks yourself, please replace them in pairs. I won't debate the pros/cons, just my opinion that your life will just be easier.
Here is the link to the album I created with the pictures.
2012 Explorer Rear Shocks
Tools needed were:
15 mm Open Ended Wrench
15 mm socket
17 mm socket (breaker bar helps)
Flat Head Screwdriver
8 mm socket (with about 6" extension)
17 or 18 mm Open Ended Wrench (I used a 3/4", but that's not the right size)
Key steps:
1. Jack up the vehicle using the unibody lift point (please use the right type of jack so as to not crack the paint). Use a jack stand for safety. You don't have to lower the vehicle onto the jack stand, just have it under there just in case. Do not lift the vehicle by the suspension. You will be starting over at this step if you do
2. Remove the tire.
3. Remove the upper nut on the rear sway bar linkage. You will need an open ended wrench to keep the stud from spinning. You do not need to remove the lower nut, the linkage will swing out of the way.
4. Remove the lower bolt on the shock. The nut is welded in place. A breaker bar helps, but many will be able to remove it with just a 1/2" ratchet.
5. Remove the upper nut. Inside the vehicle, the storage trays have a removable piece of plastic you can pop out with a flat head screwdriver. Hold the nut steady with an open ended wrench and spin the stud with a socket. You will need an extension for the socket.
6. At this point, the old shock can be removed and the new shock put in place. Your new shock will most likely have a different sized nut/stud and a non-welded nut for the lower bolt.
7. Use Silicone Lubricant to help assemble the pieces for your new shock and fully seat the lower rubber piece in place before putting the top pieces on inside the vehicle. Tighten the new nut down until the upper rubber piece is squished. I believe it's supposed to be about 15 ft/lbs, but someone can confirm for me if I'm off.
8. Put the lower bolt/nut on the shock and tighten. I believe it's supposed to be about 40 ft/lbs, but someone can confirm for me if I'm off. There is not a lot of stress on the lower bolt, but you don't want it vibrating the nut loose.
9. Put the upper nut back on the sway bar linkage. I believe it's supposed to be about 15 ft/lbs, but someone can confirm for me if I'm off.
10. Put the tire back on and repeat for the other side.