relocating lock and window switches?

[CDW6212R]

Thanks Eric, and did you notice/wonder about the other switches? I'll be posting a bunch of pictures in my build thread soon. I'm scheduled for an alignment tomorrow, all I need to be driving it is the tail lights. Regards,

 

[joney]

Thanks for the kind words. I am tall enough to sit in the right seat and drive with my left foot and hand, with the seat belt on. I could and may still change to RHD controls, but the extra work space without the wheel etc. is nice right now. My right knee has been wearing out faster than normal, so I may be forced to change.



I take that as a compliment, because I actually cut up the RF switch panel, and merged it with a LF underside switch holder. It took a couple of hours of tedious cutting and epoxying. Regards,

Hi! Yes I know this is an old thread....but, do you remember how the master switch comes loose after the screws holding the switch to the armrest are out, my 98 switch seems to be glued or plastic-welded in, yet no sign of previous mods...Don't want to break anything!

 

[CDW6212R]

There are very small plastic tangs that hold the switch body in place. There are a four of them, it takes a very small screw driver to move the sides of the switch pocket outward, to let the switch come out. It takes a little while to do it without breaking anything. I have some pictures of that in my 99/93 project thread, this one shows those four protrusions along the side of the switch itself. There's a matching hole in the sides of the pocket where it goes, so you have to gently bend the outer part outward, to let the tangs come out.

 

[joney]

There are very small plastic tangs that hold the switch body in place. There are a four of them, it takes a very small screw driver to move the sides of the switch pocket outward, to let the switch come out. It takes a little while to do it without breaking anything. I have some pictures of that in my 99/93 project thread, this one shows those four protrusions along the side of the switch itself. There's a matching hole in the sides of the pocket where it goes, so you have to gently bend the outer part outward, to let the tangs come out.

View attachment 342150

Thanks much, and so quickly! A great help. Will resume tomorrow with better light on the subject. If I can find that 'one touch module' in there somewhere, want to test that also.

 

[CDW6212R]

The one touch feature is inside the GEM module starting in the 95's I believe. To add that feature to any window, up or down, you can use an auto down module from a mid 90's Taurus etc. The Explorer had those in 1993 and 94, I used that one for my RF window, it's a small device about 3"x2"x1", and has four wires to it;

 

[joney]

The one touch feature is inside the GEM module starting in the 95's I believe. To add that feature to any window, up or down, you can use an auto down module from a mid 90's Taurus etc. The Explorer had those in 1993 and 94, I used that one for my RF window, it's a small device about 3"x2"x1", and has four wires to it;

View attachment 342157

With your helpful advice, I did get the window master switch out, tested with an ohmmeter, all switches behave the same resistance wise, including the top left one that doesn't actually move the driver's window up...I guess unplug the motor and apply 12v to it next to see if it moves...I'd read here in the forum that the separate 'one touch' unit could be bypassed IF it was causing the problem. I'm hoping it's NOT the GEM module causing it, would have no idea how to fix or replace that! I'd also seen on You Tube a guy manually pulling up a window that wouldn't go up with the switch, found out there was NO budging it a millimeter. I've worked on 'roll up' windows a few times, this is the first try at a power window.

 

[CDW6212R]

The switches are extremely fragile inside, the contacts are tiny and it's lucky to have them last 1-20 years. If one is ever old and may be a problem, I prefer to replace them since they need it anyway.

You can unplug the motors and apply +/- to the wires, either way, to test them. The switches apply both power and ground to a motor to make it run. All of the wires are normally grounded, except the main power wires.