Removing Fan, conflicting instructions! | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Removing Fan, conflicting instructions!

CodePoet

Explorer Addict
Joined
July 11, 2002
Messages
2,419
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City, State
Indianapolis, Indiana
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 XLT
Hey guys i'm getting some conflicting instruction on how to replace my water pump. I've already drained and removed radiator now i'm to the fan. The problem is my Haynes manual says I need to goto the parts store and get a couple special tools to remove the fan. HOWEVER the autozone site says I just need to remove the four bolts that hold the fan and clutch assembly to the pully shaft. Which is correct? I dont' have a problem going and renting a tool, but i just don't understand how to do this fully. Haynes pictures two tools but I don't understand (after looking at the fan clutch) how to use the tools since there is a spring in the front and not a nut of some kind like the tool suggests. I hope someone can help!!

Thanks,
Trent
 



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Well i've been searching and I think that I do indeed need to go get this special tool set. Now my question is how do I use it? The haynes manual seems kinda vague.

Thank you!
trent
 






i'm not positive on this, because i haven't taken the fan off of my explorer yet but i believe its just the 4 bolts you take off and the fan comes off.. if it does not come off after you take the four bolts off just try to wiggle it back and forth. the fan is usually on there pretty snugg but should not require a special tool.
 






The four bolts remove the fan, but that does not remove the fan clutch from the water pump. That screws off. With the fan shroud removed (you said you had the radiator out) you should be able to get a conventional tool in to unscrew the fan assembly. I've done it without the wrench, though I finally made me a tool to do it. Removing the radiator seems like a hard way to do it.
 






lesten go to autozone and ask for the two ranches to remove the fan on is in a u shape the other is about a 2 inch wrench hold the four bolts in the u shape and
lock the two inch wrench around the big nut it turns right to loosen.
 






muddbone said:
lesten go to autozone and ask for the two ranches to remove the fan on is in a u shape the other is about a 2 inch wrench hold the four bolts in the u shape and
lock the two inch wrench around the big nut it turns right to loosen.
I belive it is a 1 1/4 nut.turns to the right to loosen.
:confused:
 






yes Im sorry your right it does turn to the right its just been awhile for me but I replaced mine about two years ago it does turn to the rightl
 






You need the 4 bolts that are between the clutch and water pump in place for the big part of the special tool to lock to. I didn't need to remove the radiator on the 98 or the 91. On the 98 the pump wasn't even the problem although you have to tear it down to get to it. There is a 90* hose right above the water pump that never had the clamp in place. There were absolutely no marks on the hose that indicated the clamp was in the right place. It was there but no where near where the pipe was inside the hose.
 






Hey I thought i'd just let everyone know that i am an expert now at taking out the fan...i had to do it like 4 times before we got the leak fixed lol. Luckly i found that you didn't have to take the radiator out to do all this work, it was tight but do-able with another set of hands (the haynes manual made it sound like you had to take the radiator out).

Later
cp
 






elkhunter said:
You need the 4 bolts that are between the clutch and water pump in place for the big part of the special tool to lock to. I didn't need to remove the radiator on the 98 or the 91. On the 98 the pump wasn't even the problem although you have to tear it down to get to it. There is a 90* hose right above the water pump that never had the clamp in place. There were absolutely no marks on the hose that indicated the clamp was in the right place. It was there but no where near where the pipe was inside the hose.
Well that is a odd seems like someone has had it out ounce before
and just didnt finish bolting everything up I know just today on my Z71
I was giving it a tune up and found several vacuum hoses loose where I
had the motor rebuilt weve all done it. I hope you get it fixed man good
luck sorry I wasnt much help.
 






you need fan clutch tools and the treads are lefthandedin other words lefty tighty righty loosey
 






The "Nut' between the fan & the pulley turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE to loosen, same way any other nut turns.... The 'special' tool holds the pulley w/four bolts stationary during this procedure.

The HAPLESS ILLFATED DIY'er who tries turning it clockwise to loosen it is just jamming it tighter & tighter.

RE Tools: There are two different types, the cheaper on which looks like a HUGE open end to fit over the 4 pulley bolts, kind of a PITA as the bolts all have to be postioned just so or it won't fit. The KD Tool is quite a bit better made easier to use as it slips over two diagonal nuts.

Dave Frank
 






Vortxrex is absolutely right. When I changed my fan clutch, I followed all the instructions (isn't it even written on the fan shroud?) and tried to turn the nut clockwise to loosen-- after getting nowhere for about 10 minutes, I finally took a look at the threads on my new fan clutch and realized that they are not reversed from normal. Turn counterclockwise when facing the vehicle from the front in order to loosen.
 






Hmmm, I have to do mine tonite and I was under the impression that the clutch hub had left-handed threads on it but now I'm not so sure. I am going to AutoZone to rent the tools and while I'm there I may look at a new one to see which way the threads go. I'll post tomorrow after I've gotten it off.
 






Well, I went to AutoZone, rented/borrowed the tools, and took the fan clutch off. Vortxrx is right-the threads are normal right-handed threads (cw to tighten, ccw to loosen). It makes sense if you think about it. If the crank is turning cw then the wp has to turn ccw (serp belt). Since the fan blades provide resistance to rotation through the clutch hub, if the threads were left-handed, the hub would loosen as the engine turned. Instead, as the engine turns it actually serves to tighten the hub nut. My Mom's 2.9L Ranger has a similar clutch/hub/nut arrangement only her's IS left-handed because the engine uses Vbelts and the wp turns in the same direction as the crank (cw).
 






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