- Joined
- October 12, 1999
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- 6,595
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- City, State
- Pennsylvania
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2024 F-150 Tremor
Aside: The Ford Manual paid for itself in its first use.
I've had a problem with critters getting into the HVAC system. First time, the dealer cleaned out the blower motor. The second time, I decapitated a critter and much of the system had to be cleaned/replaced/sanitized due to the "bits." Yesterday, the blower motor became very loud, suggesting again something got into it.. Today, I took care of it. Unfortunately, though I remembered my camera, I forgot to note bolt sizes. But, I used my Craftsman Mechanics set (one of those 300 piece-all in one briefcase ones) and all was good. The bolts were standard size, so a ratchet, extension, standard inch and mm set, screw drivers, etc. will work fine.
The hallmarks of a clogged blower are a putrid smell and/or a loud hum coming from the motor when running it at speeds 3 or 4. I cannot describe the sound any better, but trust me--you'll know the sound when you hear it, as compared to the unclogged, working sound.
Steps (Ford manual with my comments):
(1) Disconnect the battery.
I did not because I was disconnecting all electrical connections anyway. In addition, I did not want to reset my Kenwood headunit.
(2) Remove the air filter assembly.
This was easy. I loosened the clamp over the MAF assembly and pulled out the MAF tube and filter. I did not bother disconnecting it because there was enough slack on the wiring harness. YMWV if you have an OEM air intake system.
(3) Detach the speed control servo.
First, disconnect the wiring harness to it. This is the red/black connection upper center. Then, unbolt the unit from the fender lip. You can see the empty hole middle left. (In the photo ABOVE, you can see the servo and cable running to it, located above the washer fluid and coolant reservoirs.)
This is the speed control servo.
Like the air filter, there is enough slack in the cable to simply place it on top of the engine.
(4) Detatch the coolant/windshield fluid tank and place it where the air filter was located.
You need the space to pull out the blower. The tank was attached with three bolts (the manual said four): two to the fender wall, and one to the base of the plate that the OEM air filter assembly attaches to. You do not need to disconnect any power or fluid hoses.
I did not take a photo of this. But, in the photos above, you can get the idea.
(5) Remove the blower motor.
(a) Disconnect the vent hose (lower right, and held on with a rubber-band like ring).
Center right of the photo below.
(b) Disconnect the electrical connector.
Bottom left of the photo below.
(c) Remove the four screws (at the for "corners").
Note the four empty holes in the photo below.
(d) Pull the blower motor out to the front, being careful to not damage the fan itself.
(6) Replace/clean the blower.
No sign of Alvin, Simon or Theodore. Thankfully, I didn't decapitate it this time.
(7) While it is apart, do not forget to clean in the HVAC system itself.
(8) And, of course, read these steps in reverse to put everything back together.
I've had a problem with critters getting into the HVAC system. First time, the dealer cleaned out the blower motor. The second time, I decapitated a critter and much of the system had to be cleaned/replaced/sanitized due to the "bits." Yesterday, the blower motor became very loud, suggesting again something got into it.. Today, I took care of it. Unfortunately, though I remembered my camera, I forgot to note bolt sizes. But, I used my Craftsman Mechanics set (one of those 300 piece-all in one briefcase ones) and all was good. The bolts were standard size, so a ratchet, extension, standard inch and mm set, screw drivers, etc. will work fine.
The hallmarks of a clogged blower are a putrid smell and/or a loud hum coming from the motor when running it at speeds 3 or 4. I cannot describe the sound any better, but trust me--you'll know the sound when you hear it, as compared to the unclogged, working sound.
Steps (Ford manual with my comments):
(1) Disconnect the battery.
I did not because I was disconnecting all electrical connections anyway. In addition, I did not want to reset my Kenwood headunit.
(2) Remove the air filter assembly.
This was easy. I loosened the clamp over the MAF assembly and pulled out the MAF tube and filter. I did not bother disconnecting it because there was enough slack on the wiring harness. YMWV if you have an OEM air intake system.
(3) Detach the speed control servo.
First, disconnect the wiring harness to it. This is the red/black connection upper center. Then, unbolt the unit from the fender lip. You can see the empty hole middle left. (In the photo ABOVE, you can see the servo and cable running to it, located above the washer fluid and coolant reservoirs.)
This is the speed control servo.
Like the air filter, there is enough slack in the cable to simply place it on top of the engine.
(4) Detatch the coolant/windshield fluid tank and place it where the air filter was located.
You need the space to pull out the blower. The tank was attached with three bolts (the manual said four): two to the fender wall, and one to the base of the plate that the OEM air filter assembly attaches to. You do not need to disconnect any power or fluid hoses.
I did not take a photo of this. But, in the photos above, you can get the idea.
(5) Remove the blower motor.
(a) Disconnect the vent hose (lower right, and held on with a rubber-band like ring).
Center right of the photo below.
(b) Disconnect the electrical connector.
Bottom left of the photo below.
(c) Remove the four screws (at the for "corners").
Note the four empty holes in the photo below.
(d) Pull the blower motor out to the front, being careful to not damage the fan itself.
(6) Replace/clean the blower.
No sign of Alvin, Simon or Theodore. Thankfully, I didn't decapitate it this time.
(7) While it is apart, do not forget to clean in the HVAC system itself.
(8) And, of course, read these steps in reverse to put everything back together.
