replacing F rotors/pads - any tips?

[treywylie]

I'm about to replace the front rotors and pads on my '97 XLT. I've got Performance Friction pads F/R and new high quality rotors, just looking for install tips or gotchas with the job. I read through the Haynes manual and it looks straghtforward enough, but those are the jobs that scare me...

Anyone know what size the wheel nut (center bearing) is for the front. I wanted to make sure I had the right size before starting the job, but haven't pulled the caps yet.

Thanks in advance for any advice/tips.

-tw

 

[hinkle_e]

I'm not too sure if you even have to remove the wheel nut. I did mine a while back and can't recall (but I'm sure someone else will). One thing you will want to do, however is open the bleeder when you back off the piston. Will will seldom (if ever) see that instruction given in any manual, but if you don't, you run the risk of f#*king up the ABS. It has something to do w/ a pressure valve in the system. I'm not sure if you HAVE to do it on a Ford (MOPAR it's a MUST) but why not do it to be safe.

 

[LowdPypes]

my favorite job... brakes...

not a hard task. It's pretty cut and dry. You don't have to disconnect any lines.

Remove the tire

Remove the two bolts on the back of the caliper (not the one with the brake line on it.)

Remove both rods.

Pull the caliper off and set aside or have someone hold it.

Remove the rotor.

Install new rotor.

Install new pads.

Compress caliper and install back on rotor.

Install greased rods.

Install both bolts and ready to go.

As with any process, watch how things come apart so you know how to put them back and always remember, you have one on the other side to look at ;-)

(great time to paint the calipers if your interested.)

 

[dogfriend]

I would add this: Don't follow the advice in the Haynes manual that says not to wipe the grease from the caliper pins because a replacement isn't available. The replacement grease is available from Ford, and there are other substitutes available as discussed in this thread: Dead Link Removed

I would take the pins out and inspect them carefully, then coat them with new grease. If they stick, you may get uneven wear of the pads. I had this problem with the rear pads on mine.

Also, if you have 4wd, the rotors come right off after you remove the brake caliper. If you are 2wd, then I believe you have to remove the hub from the spindle (wheel bearing races are pressed into rotor).

 

[treywylie]

thanks for the replys and thread on the caliper rail grease. I do have a 2wd, so I'll need to pull the hub nut and reuse the inner and outer bearings for the rotor. I may call the stealership and see how much they want for new rails and bearings since I don't plan on doing this again any time soon... 6 years and 125k on the clock, if it goes that far again, I'll be happy.

tw

 

[97BlackX5.0]

replacing your brakes will be pretty straightforward... i never had to pull the bleader screw to avoid screwing up the abs but it wont hurt.... if you are looking to upgrade the brakes so that they grab better... i swear by bendix ti22 titanium coated pads... had them on a 89 bronco 2 and the damn thing would just about stand on its nose.....less dust less rotor warpage which i hear is a problem i put them on my x after almost rearending a couple people and could not believe the difference... i have 5.0 awd and it will actually kick in the ABS on dry pavement. whereas before it wouldnt.... Advance auto has them... they have a lifetime warranty and they were 35 bucks for fronts... i will never install anything but them on another vehicle i own.... oh by the way... the ones on the bronco have 40k miles on them and are only about half gone.... of very very hard braking.