Replacing outer tie rod end

[smalltownusa]

Well I finally got the jam nut to back away a little. I had to heat it up. Little victory.
I was hoping now the TRE would actually spin off easily.
No such luck with me it's on pretty tight. I tried a little heat, but nothing moved.
With the jam nut backed away I think the PB Blaster can get in there and help.
So it's soaking for the night.

Rather than making new posts I am editing this one.
Saturday finally got the TRE off. Not sure why it came off so difficult the threads look fine.
Jam nut not cooperating. Trying to get it completely off so I can run a die up the threads to clean them up. Letting it sit for the night after spraying with PB Blaster.

 

[swshawaii]

^ Wow, that's brutal. See the silver stuff on the inner tie rod threads? That's anti seize. LOL Applied anti seize inside the outer tie rod ends before installing, and coated the exposed threads AFTER alignment was done. No anti seize on jam nut threads.

 

[sr139fox]

Had time after I got home to look for a tie rod remover tool. It is a heavy pipe with a slot the fits over the tie rod to spin it out. The end is solid with a 1/2 inch square for a ratchet or impact gun. . I seen it used a long time ago. Link is attached.
Dave P.

https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.c...MIsYemufK-1QIV8TLTCh27FwEAEAYYASABEgLgNvD_BwE

 

[smalltownusa]

Well I finally got the jam nut removed. Whew. It took a lot of PB blaster, heating, and elbow grease.
There must have been something wrong with the nut threads as it fought me all the way to the last thread.
I bought a "re-threader die" and they sure do work great: I ran it partially up the threads then backed it off cleaned and repeated until it reached all the threads.
I've stopped for the evening, but at least from here on in I can reinstall a new jam nut and new TRE. I left it soaking one last time just to help clean it up for tomorrow.
Chalk it up to another new experience for me.

 

[239]

I was attempting to replace the outer tie rod boot since the tie rod itself is fine. I got the cotter pin out and used a rubber mallet, then a hammer on the castle nut to try and get the tie rod off the steering knuckle. But that thing must be fused on since it wouldn’t budge. They’re the original tie rod ends since we’ve never replaced them so it makes since if they’re stuck. I’ll have to take it to a shop whenever the tie rod finally wears out. Crazy how it’s still fine 20 years later.

 

[koda2000]

I was attempting to replace the outer tie rod boot since the tie rod itself is fine. I got the cotter pin out and used a rubber mallet, then a hammer on the castle nut to try and get the tie rod off the steering knuckle. But that thing must be fused on since it wouldn’t budge. They’re the original tie rod ends since we’ve never replaced them so it makes since if they’re stuck. I’ll have to take it to a shop whenever the tie rod finally wears out. Crazy how it’s still fine 20 years later.

I use a 5 lb hammer on the back side of the castle nut screwed flush with the TRE stud. A rubber hammer will never work. You need the shock of steel on steel to pop the engineered taper. You can also use a 2-jaw puller, put some tension on the stud and then whack the steering knuckle with a steel hammer. The taper will then pop out.

 

[239]

I use a 5 lb hammer on the back side of the castle nut screwed flush with the TRE stud. A rubber hammer will never work. You need the shock of steel on steel to pop the engineered taper. You can also use a 2-jaw puller, put some tension on the stud and then whack the steering knuckle with a steel hammer. The taper will then pop out.

I’ll have to try a larger hammer in the future when I have more time. I installed leveling keys and have a bad creaking sound coming from the torsion bar cover area. The material on the pads is starting to fall off. So I have to fix that now, somehow