Replacing outer tie rod end

[smalltownusa]

Thought I was going to go out and easily remove my 2005 sport trac outer tie rod end.
Simple I thought: remove the cotter pin from the castle nut, back off the jam nut, remove the castle nut, pop off the tie rod end, measure the length, unthread the tie rod end, and install new in reverse order.

Well the damn cotter pin has other ideas. It won't budge. Of course by now the cotter pin head is broken off. I have been trying in vain to drive it out with a punch from engine side hoping to get it out that way. It appears to have moved about 1/8" then stopped. I did verify that the punch I am using fits the ford branded replacement tie rod end hole. I am not sure if it is a good idea to try and budge it with a torque wrench for fear that I'll just jam it further. My headache is from all the banging with my head in the wheel well .

Could it be that the castle nut is turned enough to stop removal of the cotter pin?

Any suggestions ?

 

[swshawaii]

Will the 21mm socket fit over the castle nut? If so, use a cheater pipe over the breaker bar or ratchet, and and use steady force until the cotter pin breaks. Since you're replacing with a stock TRE, also remember to count turns when removing and replacing. Torque @ 52 ft/lbs. and get the toe checked ASAP. Total toe spec is 1/32" to 3/16", almost like splitting hairs.

 

[smalltownusa]

Mine I think is a 15/16". I guess I could knock of the stub of the cotter pin with a chisel.

 

[swshawaii]

You meant 13/16", which is slightly smaller than 21mm. Or use a tight fitting open end or adjustable wrench.

Cotter pins are soft steel, and are meant to bend. Also, DO NOT use a torque wrench as a breaker bar.

 

[koda2000]

Tip: OP, once you get the nut off, turn it upside down and screw it back on until the face of the nut is even with the threaded stud of the TRE, Then give the nut a few good whacks with a big hammer to pop it free of the steering knuckle. You could use a 2-jaw puller but the hammer is quicker.

 

[smalltownusa]

Went shopping for a breaker bar tonight.
The Lowes 1/2" had a lot of breakage reports.
I'm wondering about Harbor Freight ?

 

[swshawaii]

^ You're seriously over thinking this, TRE uses a a small cotter pin. Use ANY wrench except torque, and shear it off. Simple.

 

[koda2000]

^ You're seriously over thinking this, TRE uses a a small cotter pin. Use ANY wrench except torque, and shear it off. Simple.

Agreed, plus I suspect the punch you're trying to use is too big for the hole in the TRE and that's why the remainder of the cotter pin wont come out. When installed they just rattle around in the hole. I've never had one get stuck in 55 years of working on cars. As said. cotter pins are very soft metal and will shear off easily with a little force. Just go mid evil on it, it's not like you care if anything breaks.

 

[smalltownusa]

Didn't mean to take so long replying it's just that my garage time gets interrupted. Yes I am probably making more out of this than necessary. It's just that in the past when I thought what might be a good idea turned out to really complicate things. I tried in vain with a breaker bar. So I hooked up my virgin impact wrench to my air compressor and voila it's off. I was surprised that the threads on the castle nut still look fine. Impact wrench I think I'm in love !

My next issue is the jam nut. The threads behind the nut even after wire brushing look rather lousy. The salt brine road treatment in my area certainly takes its toll.
I tried several times and no budging. I'm letting it sit after spraying it with PB Blaster hoping it might help things along.

I am toying with the idea of holding the jam nut, and trying to unthread the TRE then maybe I could get at the jam nut from both sides with the PB blaster to free it up.
I'll bet a thread tap and die set is my next purchase.

 

[swshawaii]

Glad you got it, surprised it required an impact. What jam nut? After the castle nut is removed, the TRE is held in a
tapered seat that prevents the stud from spinning. BTW, replacement TRE's include new castle nuts and cotter pins.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...rac,4.0l+v6,1430691,steering,tie+rod+end,7428

 

[swshawaii]

Sorry, you're referring to the jam nut threaded on the inner. Agree, they can get pretty crusty and scary looking. As you're already doing, thoroughly wire brush followed by penetrant such as PB Blaster. Repeat. Use a propane or MAPP torch if the nut doesn't break free, and make sure you're loosening counter clockwise on both tie rod ends, some vehicles have reverse (left hand) threads on one side.

 

[smalltownusa]

The tie rod end came out of it's "seat" with just a little tapping. I reinstalled the TRE to hold it while trying to back off the jam nut located on the male threaded portion of the TRE inner section. Just checked my new TRE package right from Ford no castle nut or cotter pin. I'm also going to put some grease in the TRE before I thread it back on.

I was hoping to back of the jam nut, and then spin off the TRE.
I'm on my way to town to pick up cotter pins. Are all cotter pins created equal ?

 

[swshawaii]

Surprised. If not too late, can you return it for a refund. Just replaced both mine with Moog ES 3667 Problem Solvers from O'Reilly that were in stock locally. They were about $35, about $10 more than Amazon or eBay but I didn't want to wait.
I was afraid the aftermarket Moog's would not be the EXACT same length, but they were a perfect match. Regardless, you STILL must have alignment checked.

 

[koda2000]

The tie rod end came out of it's "seat" with just a little tapping. I reinstalled the TRE to hold it while trying to back off the jam nut located on the male threaded portion of the TRE inner section. Just checked my new TRE package right from Ford no castle nut or cotter pin. I'm also going to put some grease in the TRE before I thread it back on.

I was hoping to back of the jam nut, and then spin off the TRE.
I'm on my way to town to pick up cotter pins. Are all cotter pins created equal ?

No, not all cotter pins are the same size, length or made of the same metal. I would hope anything you buy in an auto parts store would be steel. Aluminum is too soft. If the cotter pin is to long you can just cut the excess off with a pair of diagonal cutters.

The cotter pin is just there as a safety in case the nut loosens up.

 

[smalltownusa]

Are the threads on the inner TRE regular ? I'm working on the right side trying to rotate the wrench clockwise.

 

[sr139fox]

They sell an attachment that fits your impact wrench that fits over the TRE. Then push a button and unscrew it. Dave P.

 

[sr139fox]

They sell an attachment that fits your impact wrench that fits over the TRE. Then push a button and unscrew it. Dave P.

 

[smalltownusa]

Dave I think you mean the very inside nut that takes an adapter ? I'm trying to remove the outer TRE, but can budge the jam nut.
I was wondering if turning the nut clockwise was incorrect.

 

[swshawaii]

Are the threads on the inner TRE regular ? I'm working on the right side trying to rotate the wrench clockwise.

Passenger TRE, looking straight from the front to rear. Pull the wrench DOWN to loosen the jam nut.

Driver side is opposite. Push the wrench UP to loosen the jam nut.
P.S.- WATCH YOUR KNUCKLES, and be prepared when the nut breaks free. Wear gloves. LOL

 

[koda2000]

Jam nuts are regular (RH) thread on both sides.