Replacing solid brake lines

[oldexp]

I am looking for info on the brake tubing and fittings. Hoping to find some pre-made pipes approximately the right length.

I have brake fluid spurting from one of the solid brake lines. It appears to be one of three lines running from the ABS pump out to the brakes. Looks like all three lines go to mounting blocks on near the driver's side suspension.

Web search seems to show factory parts are NLA, so my choices are to 1) make my own line or 2) buy a pre-made line (with fittings) that is approximately the same length as the original.

Does this sound right? Can anyone tell me the nominal brake line size? I can't find a diagram showing the brake line routings and fittings.

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NewB-EXP

 

[410Fortune]

They sell our hard lines at auto parts stores
Best bet is to remove the one you have, take it to store and match it up
You will have to bend it into shape

Some of the fittings are a weird metric bubble flare which can actually be made at home with a double flare tool.
Can you show us which line is leaking/bad?

There is a company that makes all stainless lines, complete vehicle replacement kits I’m not sure if they offer your line

Let’s see which one you need!

 

[freak]

I am looking for info on the brake tubing and fittings. Hoping to find some pre-made pipes approximately the right length.

I have brake fluid spurting from one of the solid brake lines. It appears to be one of three lines running from the ABS pump out to the brakes. Looks like all three lines go to mounting blocks on near the driver's side suspension.

Web search seems to show factory parts are NLA, so my choices are to 1) make my own line or 2) buy a pre-made line (with fittings) that is approximately the same length as the original.

Does this sound right? Can anyone tell me the nominal brake line size? I can't find a diagram showing the brake line routings and fittings.

adTHANKSvance,
NewB-EXP

Get yourself a double flare tool and a small pipe cutter. They're not expensive. You can easily fix them by yourself. Be careful bending the lines as they can kink and you'll probably never have the exact bends since they made on a machine but they will be fine. I've replaced many over the years.

 

[Pete Deering]

I am looking for info on the brake tubing and fittings. Hoping to find some pre-made pipes approximately the right length.

I have brake fluid spurting from one of the solid brake lines. It appears to be one of three lines running from the ABS pump out to the brakes. Looks like all three lines go to mounting blocks on near the driver's side suspension.

Web search seems to show factory parts are NLA, so my choices are to 1) make my own line or 2) buy a pre-made line (with fittings) that is approximately the same length as the original.

Does this sound right? Can anyone tell me the nominal brake line size? I can't find a diagram showing the brake line routings and fittings.

adTHANKSvance,
NewB-EXP

I think classic tube or LMC truck might sell pre made lines. There maybe only one company that offer it.
Very expensive. It time consuming too bend, but if it only one small section, then its the fastest way. Just a head up, there's a 6 inch flex line from the ABS unit. It required, it removes the pounding from the ABS. if it at the age unit you will be reusing those tube
Fitting.
Harbor freight was selling a hand bender for custom bends. you can buy flare tool From any auto store supplier. Buy a nice one because, this just the start of things too come. I believe its a 1/4 " brake line. Measure the outside diameter of the tube. If that line goes too a flex hose. Replace the hose its easy and faster. It could be rusted together. And use nickel copper line. If you need less than 24 inches use a piece of steel tube. If over buy the 25 foot coil nickel copper.

 

[C420sailor]

Even the Motorcraft lines require SOME bending on your part to install, especially the RF line. They simply cant be routed fully bent. So, even if they were available, you'd have to bend.

Get flaring tools, as mentioned. And a good set of bending pliers for that exact purpose.

Use the old lines as a template for length and rough bends, then make fine adjustments in the truck.

 

[J_C]

Some of the fittings are a weird metric bubble flare which can actually be made at home with a double flare tool.

They are? I don't recall any that weren't a (inverted) double flare on my '98. Which model years?

 

[J_C]

The brake line is 3/16". The tube nuts are 3/8-24.

The easiest thing to do is get bulk NiCopp aka CuNi, copper nickel line. It is very easy to bend by hand, while you are installing it, not trying to recreate the bends of the original before hand and then installing it. That may work too, but you'd end up having to un-bend it still to get it in, then re-bend again anyway.

The AGS Poly Armour line found at auto parts stores is harder to bend but not terribly hard either, can be bent easily by hand except for if you need tighter bends, so would be easier to use for the front to rear wheels line, or the left rear to right rear on-axle line, than either of the front wheel lines.

Depending on how badly they are rusted, you may not have any luck trying to get the old lines out without them crumbling apart and having more work to do, if doing that. Some people just leave the entire line in, or almost all and just cut it at both ends, but doing so you will need new mounting locations instead of using the same clip locations the old line is still in. On the front to rear line, the clips have an additional empty position you could put the new line in.

If you need new clips, this is about the best deal out there, a 10 pack for $3 delivered:

Brake Tube Body Clamp, 3/16

Brake Tube Body Clamp, 3/16", Single, Bag of 10

www.agscompany.com

Some people just use nylon wire ties to the old line but it doesn't seem like as long term a solution.

You don't really need a bend tool for the copper nickle line. Even pretty tight bends can be done on a simple form. I made one by taking a piece of dowel rod, put a hole in the middle to slip a bolt in to put on a drill press, then just rotated it while I held a small circular file to it to make a channel 3/16". You don't even need that for line bends with about 1" radius or larger.

In addition to the flare tool, another good investment is a high quality 3/8" flare nut wrench... OR, getting nuts on is easy enough, and getting the old nuts off is easier if you just cut the line at the nut, then can slip a 6 pt medium/deep well socket on.

When I did mine, I was able to reuse the larger nuts on the ABS module, but all new 3/8" tube nuts elsewhere. Don't forget to put the nuts on BEFORE you flare the line!

 

[oldexp]

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm not big on cutting and flaring tubing if I don't have to. I don't have the tools. Just bought a complete brake pipe set (with fittings) for a Triumph car that I am restoring so I don't have to flare. I do have some experience with bending/flaring copper tubing in a previous HVAC life.

I'm going to get some tubing bending tools for the Triumph project anyway. I can add the double-flare or whatever tool if I have to make my own lines.

Here's some pix of the existing lines. Tubing with spring wire guard, then the corregated plastic jacket that's used for just about every else. The cable-ties that hold the brake line plastic jacket appear to be color coded.

-Looks like each ABS pump fitting (nut) is a different length.
-Anyone have a decoder ring for the colored ties?

Here's the leak. Wasn't too hard to find. I got lucky that the gusher was aligned with the slit of the plastic jacket. This is the line closest to the front of the truck.

There appears to be hydraulic junction block just below the support brackets. I'm hoping there is but can't see down in there well enough. I would like to get a replacement line before disabling the truck so I can do the job in the garage away from the bugs. So trying to identify the size of the leaky line ahead of time.

Thanks again!

 

[J_C]

What vehicle engine and model year is this? It looks (unless I'm confused by the orientation of the pictures) nothing like the lines on my '98.

 

[C420sailor]

Those lines look pretty good. Wonder if they rotted out from the inside?

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm going to need something done with my Mounty, the lines are rusted a lot(born in Milwaukee).

 

[oldexp]

@J_C It's a '98 model. Manuf. 2/97.
I edited the pictures and added some more/better legends. Can't seem to get them oriented like I want after they are uploaded.

@C420sailor I'm thinking the protective spiral spring may have worn through the pipe with vibration over time. That tie-wrap at near the hole may be too tight.

Can anyone tell me where the next brake line junction is after it leaves the ABS pump? I'm trying to guesstimate the length of that pipe section.

 

[J_C]

You can make junctions in your replacement line if you want, using unions, not compression fittings, but I don't recall there being any on my '98. Edit: I take that back, the left rear soft hose, is a junction for the line across the axle to the right rear.

If you want to go that route, you could just get pre-flared universal/straight lines from an auto parts store and mix and match the lengths to get the union and total length where you want it, except you still have to cut off one end, and replace the 3/8" tube nut with the larger ABS tube nut then reflare it.

These were put on the frame at the factory before the rest of the truck was bolted on. That's why pre-bent/pre-made lines are a hassle, because everything is now in the way.

Considering their age and rusting through at one point, I'd replace the entire line. Mine were much worse near the wheels, where they slung up salty winter slush.

 

[J_C]

I don't recall any plastic looms or colored wire ties on my '98.

Another point of confusion is on this picture, you have three lines running horizontal to the ground? Only 3 lines on your ABS pump?

My '98 has 5 lines, rising vertically from the pump, similar to this view from top-down:

 

[410Fortune]

His is an early 98 apparently the other two feed lines should be on the top where the exit lines come out the side

The metric bubble flares are where the lines go into the master cyl I’m pretty sure they call that a metric
Bubble flare

 

[oldexp]

Thanks! Yep mine has the two m/c lines on top. Three lines going down to frame and brakes from the back of ABS.
Pic viewed from side

 

[oldexp]

Well I got a pipe flaring kit, some brake line and have been practicing my double flares. They are improving. Finally got the EXP in the garage and took a closer look at the existing brake lines. Look what I found when I removed the protective plastic jacketing. I thought the lines seemed "flexible" when I was manipulating them to trace their routing. I assume this was a previous repair and not something the factory used.

Not sure how these are connected but I don't like all the junctions. More opportunities for failure and leaks. I think I'm gonna end up replacing all the brake lines on this thing.

 

[CDW6212R]

Interesting, those look factory connections like where the hard lines change to flexible SS, but I didn't recall them being just short sections.

Here's my 1999 Explorer without the body, showing the brake lines from the front, the flexible sections are covered in black plastic loom.

 

[Pete Deering]

Well I got a pipe flaring kit, some brake line and have been practicing my double flares. They are improving. Finally got the EXP in the garage and took a closer look at the existing brake lines. Look what I found when I removed the protective plastic jacketing. I thought the lines seemed "flexible" when I was manipulating them to trace their routing. I assume this was a previous repair and not something the factory used.

Not sure how these are connected but I don't like all the junctions. More opportunities for failure and leaks. I think I'm gonna end up replacing all the brake lines on this thing.

View attachment 445366

You need the flex lines for the ABS system. On each side of the braided line , There should a steel line. If the line from the ABS unit is fine is good leave it and just replace the steel line on the other side of the flex line ( downward side). Just put a flare nut on the end and flare the tube, add a coupling and start your new line. You also buy 8 inch long flex lines. Any length.

 

[Astrobuf]

I am looking for info on the brake tubing and fittings. Hoping to find some pre-made pipes approximately the right length.

I have brake fluid spurting from one of the solid brake lines. It appears to be one of three lines running from the ABS pump out to the brakes. Looks like all three lines go to mounting blocks on near the driver's side suspension.

Web search seems to show factory parts are NLA, so my choices are to 1) make my own line or 2) buy a pre-made line (with fittings) that is approximately the same length as the original.

Does this sound right? Can anyone tell me the nominal brake line size? I can't find a diagram showing the brake line routings and fittings.

adTHANKSvance,
NewB-EXP

You are not going to find present complete lines for this vehicle. The original ford parts were cleared out years ago. Ford only provides complete brake lines for about 5 years, primarily to support crash repair.

If you can't bend lines, you will need to take the truck to someone who can.

The Way pros do this is using a roll of NiCop tubing (sold on line and in auto parts stores.

NiCop is very corrosion resistant and fairly easily hand bent. You will need to take the existing line out and use it as a template to hand and perhaps tool Bend the NiCop.

You will need a quality double flaring tool to mount the new flare nuts on the nicop and flare the tube ends . If you are feeling rich, you can buy a hydraulic tool, or if like me, a simple mechanical tool that has the double flare dies. You'll have to match up tubing size, so use a caliper to measure the old tubing b4 you take it apart.

I've done this many times. It's not that hard, but easy to screw up if you don't have good tools and patience.

Astrobuf