Replacing the flex plate

[Big G]

Hi Folks,

Had to tow my truck to the shop after a no-start. They replaced the starter, but still no go. Upon closer inspection they found that a piece is missing from the flex plate. They've told me that I'll need to pull the exhaust and tranny out of the vehicle to replace the flex plate. A buddy with a mechanical background has told me that it should be possible to replace it by just pulling the driveshafts and pulling the tranny back. Does this sound feasible? It would save me a bunch of cash if it can be done this way.

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks,

G

 

[yellowcat]

yes of course, with any car I have seen, yes, with an ex, nothing would surprise me

 

[454burb87]

To replace the flex plate i have always had to remove the exhaust to manifold connection. Then i separate the engine and trans. After i proceed with removing the flex plate....have fun!:roll:

 

[Maniak]

To pull the trans back far enough you will problably have to pull the exhaust.. and pulling the trans back far enough may not give you enough room to pull the flex plate...

~Mark

 

[BrooklynBay]

You should replace the flywheel to crankshaft spacer with the Sonnax 6 hole billet steel upgrade. The OEM version is brittle powdered iron.

 

[454burb87]

You should replace the flywheel to crankshaft spacer with the Sonnax 6 hole billet steel upgrade. The OEM version is brittle powdered iron.

X2 Good Call!

 

[Clarke]

what is this fex plate? and what does it do?

 

[BrooklynBay]

It's also referred to as the flywheel. This has teeth on the outer edge which engages with the starter when you crank the engine. This is how it should look:

This is what it looks like when it explodes:

 

[MDewell]

How the heck does somethin like that happen?

 

[Clarke]

oh now dont i feel stupid

 

[Itchybruno47]

Hey All...tackling this exact project right now.. noisy starts and lots of noise at idle in all gears (automatic) when at a stop, bump the rpms up to about 800 and it is silent, runs smooth as hell on the road, and no other noticeable syptoms. GOing to pull the starter and have a peek at the flexplate. 2 questions, ( i am sure more will follow but two for now ) A) How do you rotate the flexplate when you have the starter pulled so you can inspect all the teeth, and is it possible to actually tell if the flexplate has a crack or something else while just inspecting through the starter whole? and 2) Can anyone point to me to a detailed step by step for how I would go about getting the flexplate re and re'd WITHOUT pulling the entire tranny or engine?? A link or instructions with pics would be awesome squared! Thanks ahead everyone!!
Itchy

Additional info:
93 exploder xlt 4 door 4x4 automatic with air 4.0 OHV

 

[IZwack]

Hey All...tackling this exact project right now.. noisy starts and lots of noise at idle in all gears (automatic) when at a stop, bump the rpms up to about 800 and it is silent, runs smooth as hell on the road, and no other noticeable syptoms.

That doesn't sound like a flexplate issue. Try sliding under the vehicle and check for any loose parts (including heat shields) that could be rattling at idle.

 

[Itchybruno47]

Thanks for the reply / suggesters....I have already been under there for hours before I started the online hunt. I actually read up a bunch and did the dowel in the ear to hear where exactly it is coming from....deffo the bellhouse. I can put my hand on it and feel that it is coming from there...and just to prove I have OCD, I took it to a shop that a few friends of mine say will not rip you off and got the guy to have a listen and he even did what you suggested and came back out saying check the flexplate / torque converter......I have a new question now, feel free to call retard on me...the flex plate is mounted to the back of the engine? and the torque converter is mounted to the front of the tranny?? this is why everyone stresses do not drop the tranny without removing the TC bolts???
Learning on the fly here,
IB

 

[Itchybruno47]

So I am deffo dropping the tranny...first one i have ever done and this is what I have put together so far..please feel free to give me your two cents plus some...that is why I am here...to hear from guys that have done the same and already know the what to and what not to's

Here is what I have so far:
1)Kill the battery neg cable,
2)ditch the starter,
3 ditch the back drive shaft,
4 unbolt tranny from tranny hangar (or whatever it's called at the rear of the tranny holding it up,
5 ditch and plug tranny cooler lines,
5.5 disconnect shift linkage (automatic), (do I need to mark where this sits so that it will align back up when I put the beast back together?
6 disconnect "electrical component" on side of tranny (speed sensor or....?),
7 back off bellhouse bolts holding tranny to rear of engine,
8 back tranny away from engine enough to get to torque converter bolts,
9 remove (four?) torque converter bolts, bolting TC to flexplate,
-to rotate the engine to get at these bolts, could i ditch the serpentine belt and throw a strap wrench on the main crank pulley and rotate that way? I am not clear on the giant flat head screwdriver deal,
10 jack tranny up till it just clears the hangar at the rear of the tranny,
11 ditch tranny hangar / support at rear,
12 rubber glove over drive shaft end of tranny to catch the slop that I assume will come out of there when it comes down,
13 with tranny weight ALL on jack, remove all bellhouse to engine bolts,

??? this is where it gets foggy for me....not clear on how the tranny and torque converter come off the rear of the engine...
do i just pull the trtanny straight back and the torque converter comes off with it? then it is just a matter of lowering the tranny without dumping it on its side?????


ALSO: I know somewhere in there before i really mess with **** I am supposed to mark the relation of a bunch of things to each other so that **** goes back together proper.....where and when do I do that??

Never dropped a tranny before so thanks ahead for the patience..
EDIT.......starting to get to the "excited to try my first tranny drop" phase vs the "oh ****, now I have to learn how to pull the tranny" phase!!


Any and all input welcome here guys!!
IB

 

[Itchybruno47]

Revised list of steps A4LD Automatic Transmission Removal 93 explorer

Once I have the beast out, does anyone have any advice on the smartest way to remove the flexplate?? IF this is what is making all the noise, will it be apparent that it is the flex plate or the torque converter? I have used a stethoscope, dowel in the ear, cup to the ear ad all the noise is coming from the bellhousing, the front section of it. Does it seem likely that this could be my problem(s)??

Revised step list...

Front end on ramps, back end on axle stands, E BRAKE

1)Kill the battery neg cable,
2)ditch the starter,
3.1) label plug wires, remove from plugs, pull plugs,
3.2) MARK relations and ditch the back drive shaft,
3.3) Remove the FOUR torque converter bolts, holding TC to flexplate. Spin engine by hand from main crank or use fatty flatty screwdriver to spin flexplate by its teeth
4 ditch and plug tranny cooler lines,

5.5 disconnect shift linkage (automatic), (do I need to mark where this sits so that it will align back up when I put the beast back together?

6 disconnect "electrical component" on side of tranny (speed sensor or....?),
7 unbolt tranny from tranny hangar (or whatever it's called) at the rear of the tranny holding it up,
10 jack tranny up till it just clears the hangar at the rear of the tranny,
11 ditch tranny hangar / support at rear,
12 rubber glove over drive shaft end of tranny to catch the slop that I assume will come out of there when it comes down,
13 SUPPORT ENGINE TOP AND BOTTOM
13 with tranny weight ALL on jack, remove all bellhouse to engine bolts,
14 slide tranny with torque converter straight back and away from engine, and lower to ground without smashing it.

Can anyone put anything else in there I should know??

Thanks again to anyone who can throw some knowledge at my face...
IB

 

[KellyJSmith]

Am first-timing this on my 1994 Explorer 4x4 as we speak. You may have to cut some exhaust pipe from underneath unless you want to spend time literally backing your tranny out by spinning nuts a millimeter at a time using 6 inch bolts (or allthread) and then having to suck it back in the same way when you're done. I pussed out and disconnected my cooler lines from the radiator only and it worked out fine. Be sure to check for a spacer on your old flexplate, as this will tell you if your new one needs one also. Recommended that you use new bolts.