Replacing worn suspension compenents

[rs2k]

I need to replaces the control arm bushings. I'm planning on replacing both the left and right bottom control arms instead of trying to press in new bushings. While I'm under the car what else should I inspect or replace that may be worn?

Shocks and sway bar links are new, everything else has at least 130K miles on them.

I'm aiming for the smoothest ride I can get while still retaining the ability to change ride heights with the stock air shocks.

 

[AP9]

This probably won't affect ride quality much, but you might want to check on your rear leaf spring shackles while you're at it. Mine had lost about half their original metal thickness from rust.

 

[rs2k]

Thanks for the suggestion. I swapped the leaf springs around last year and they seem fine. There isn't really any rust under the vehicle which really surprises me being that this is a 15 year old Ford in the middle of Kansas.

 

[masospaghetti]

If you're going that deep into the suspension, you might consider replacing the upper control arms. That ball joint isn't replaceable and is probably getting tired.

They aren't too bad to replace. The driver's side bolts are a b*tch to get out because of the fuel lines that run in the area but it will come out.

Also get new stabilizer bar bushings (the ones mounted to the frame). They are cheap and they do tighten up steering response.

 

[rs2k]

Thanks! I'll do that.

Another question: I'll be replacing my tires soon, should I get an alignment before or after the new tires.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Align after all parts are replaced and new tires installed.

 

[rs2k]

Thanks!

Should I get the adjustable or non adjustable upper control arm? I know the 2 piece upper control allows for more adjustment, but is it needed? I would think the ride height should always be close to normal no matter the load with the stock air shocks. I'm not planning on changing the height outside of stock.

I adjusted the t-bars to get the vehicle to proper height. It required almost all the allowable adjustment to the driver's side t-bar. Would replacing them show any benefit? I am at the correct ride height right now on all four corners.

 

[masospaghetti]

That 2-piece arm allows additional caster adjustment but I don't see the point. It's only available on the passenger side. Also you won't get new control arm bushings if you just replace the ball joint portion of the 2-piece arm.

I've not had problems upgrading to the one-piece arm. Maybe someone else can explain why the 2-piece even exists?

 

[rs2k]

Thanks,

What size bushings should I get for the sway bar? 1998 Eddie Bauer AWD. I don't have a dial caliper and haven't found a definitive answer online.

 

[masospaghetti]

You should have the 34mm diameter bar. Admittedly going off memory but my 2000 model, my 98 model, and my 96 model all used the 34mm bushings.

 

[koda2000]

You should have the 34mm diameter bar. Admittedly going off memory but my 2000 model, my 98 model, and my 96 model all used the 34mm bushings.

tip: take a 3/4" open end wrench (or even use an adjustable as a caliper) to confirm your sway bar diameter.

 

[imp]

That 2-piece arm allows additional caster adjustment but I don't see the point. It's only available on the passenger side. Also you won't get new control arm bushings if you just replace the ball joint portion of the 2-piece arm.

I've not had problems upgrading to the one-piece arm. Maybe someone else can explain why the 2-piece even exists?

It isn't about additional caster adjustment, but rather about bringing the two caster settings as nearly EQUAL as possible. In other words, that right-hand side adjustment bolt is put there to obtain the "straightest" tracking possible. imp

 

[masospaghetti]

That make sense. Thanks for clarifying.

Although it makes me wonder if the replacement one-piece arms will cause tracking problems.

 

[DjDom]

Ball joints and tie rods.
If you're changing the control arms, do that.

Also, check your front hubs. Those go fast in the 4x4, but it seems like you have an AWD V8, so they aren't much of a concern.

 

[rs2k]

Both inner and outer?

I have AWD and 130K or so miles. Should I just do the hubs anyway or is that something I shouldn't touch 'till I see a problem? I don't see any moving caused by bad bearings. I do see movement from worn control arm bushings though. I can feel them when stopping too. I'm pretty sure the front end is completely factory.


The rubber bumper/grommets on top of the shocks got over tightened and show signs of cracking. They are less than a year old. Should I replace those? If so, what are they called?


Shopping cart so far:
Inner and outer tie rod ends.
Sway bar bushings
Upper and lower control arms with ball joints (1 piece design, 2 piece design doesn't have the entire control arm with bushings.)
inner fender splash shields.

$320.53 shipped from Rockauto.com


Alignment + tires and install shoulld be anywhere between $600 and $1000 depending on how I do it and what tires I get. I'm leaning towards General Grabber HTS. They seem to be as good or better than the Michelin LTX M/S 2's and a good bit cheaper.

 

[DjDom]

Save some cash on those fender splash shields and do what I did.
Go to walmart and pick up a nice BBQ mat. That mat withstands heat and everything thrown at it. I then drew a template and cut it out. Made a few holes and it's held up for over 5 years now. They are super strong and thick. I've taken them on/off several times when doing Spark Plugs, Shocks, Etc. and they've held up great!
They just need a good wash front and back every so often or they build up extreme amounts of dust.

 

[sloop]

i just had my 95 xlt worked on - ford had recommended work a year or so ago but their price spooked me - thought i'd do it myself but i found a guy to do it for me - he let me buy the parts

he looked at the suspension before i ordered the parts - he said the tie rods were fine and that if they were not having a problem, not to replace them (or any part - that even if i replaced them with motorcraft parts, it would never be as good as the original part) - from my reading here, the moog brand for suspension parts is praised

the sway bar links were replaced by ford not too long ago (tsb)

i used the one piece passenger upper control arm - and ordered the mood bolts for both control arms - the alignment guy said not to use them - might see if yours wants new ones

the guy doing the work said he would change the lower ball joints or install new lower control arms - meaning i could pay for his time wrestling out the ball joint or i could pay by ordering the entire new lower cas

he replaced the bearings on both front axles - one side was bad - parts are cheap but i did not know there was a seal needed too - if you replace them and order from rockauto, don't forget the seals (rockauto had them for under $4 each - i bought locally and paid almost $20 each)

moog is costly, but not as much as motorcraft

 

[masospaghetti]

The wheel bearings on my 98 V6 had about 205K miles when I replaced them. Neither one showed any signs of deterioration but I put in new Timkens as preventative maintenance. Timken was the OE supplier for bearings.

 

[rs2k]

Here's what I got:
1x RAYBESTOS Professional LH Lower Control Arm w/ball joint and bushings
1x RAYBESTOS Professional RH Lower Control Arm w/ball joint and bushings
1x RAYBESTOS Professional LH Upper Control Arm w/ball joint and bushings
1x RAYBESTOS Professional RH Upper Control Arm w/ball joint and bushings
2x RAYBESTOS Professional Stabilizer Bar Links
2x RAYBESTOS Professional Stabilizer Bar Bushing
2x RAYBESTOS Professional Inner Tie Rod Ends
2x RAYBESTOS Professional Outer Tie Rod Ends

1x LH Inner Fender Splash Guard
1x RH Inner Fender Splash Guard

About $405 shipped for everything with a 5% off promo code found here: http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com

I decided to get the splash shields because they were less than $25 for the pair.


I'll get it all installed next week and get tires and an alignment the week after I think.

 

[sloop]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=350140&highlight=rockauto+discount+code