resources/info on major mods to the ohv 4.0

[rookieshooter]

There's only one..... The B11. That would be a shame to put that in a DD when you have so much plans for the little guy. You must have hit the Lotto LOL

And also the laws of Kinetic energy effect HP needed to get that stationary mass moving, lighter the better. Most people think of a moving mass applied to K-energy but a stationary one wants to stay put untill an outside force wants to move it, that's kinetic also. Thats why one of the reasons race engines use titanium or some light weight valve retainer. Not because it gives less weight to the car but it takes less power for the valve to change direction (recipicating mass) it all has something to do with Mayonnaise

 

[410Fortune]

Thats what I meant, less rotating mass = more power. Light valvetrain, not for weight of the truck but so its easier to push.

The BII engine only has 53K miles on it, it is the GT-40 with P heads and the BII has ALOT of power currently
I am thinking a 2wd ranger project would be a good place for a built 330 ci Gt-40

Lotto? hell no! This is what you call avoiding the $250+ monthly car payment
Luck is the only reason I currently have 3 ea 5.0L's and 4r70w's.

also an old OHV 4.0L drivetrain, WTF do I do with it now? hahaha

 

[Ronin8002]

8SecSplash on RPS made 287rwhp and 451rwtq using a rebuilt bottom end with forged flat top pistons (10:1 compression) and a 65 shot of nitrous. He is also using Compcams grind 49-422-8 and a set of ported heads with headers and a catback exhaust, and an MSD DIS-4 ignition box. He has the stock computer and an auto tranny too. Here is the link:

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=132283

You don't need a lot of fancy internal parts, just get your crankshaft shot peened and heat treated, and have the same thing done to a new set of stock rods. Then get the whole thing balanced. This can all be done at a good engine machine shop and will probably run you about 1000 dollars or maybe a little less.

Even if you don't do that stuff at least get a set of ARP 289/302 rod bolts to replace your stockers and get new rods and a balancing job.

The forged pistons are probably the most expensive....600 for a set of JE's.

All of that is what Sven Pruitt who is the 4.0 OHV guru recommends in his book.

An oil pan from the SOHC motor would be a good idea too because it has a girdle that supports the main bearing caps better than the OHV one.

All in all you can probably build a pretty stout nitrous motor for about 2500-3000 including assembly. then again you could get a really strong 5.0 for that much but then you have to do the conversion to install it. If I could do it all over again I might have gone that route but I guess I am stubborn and I like a challenge.

 

[410Fortune]

I used to think like that too, until I went 5.0L.

I loved the OHV 4.0L power, torque, and most of all reliability. What I hated was the light duty transmissions.

the conversion was made ALOT easier when Ford stuffed a 5.0L into the Gen II Explorer.

 

[rookieshooter]

What MaximumViolence said about the rods and crank is good info. You can also do some things to the rods and crank yourself like getting a little grinder and deburring all casting marks on the rods and crank. Grind any sharp edges off. Cracks love to start at these sharp edges. I used to spend many hours smoothing stock rods down. Look at any aftermarket racing rod, you won't see any sharp edges. The same goes with the crank. You will most likly see a lot of casting marks that are sharp not only can this lead to cracks but can also break off. IF your very careful you can chafer the oil passage holes in the crank around the edges where the bearing rides. If it's not done allready. While your at it debur the block also. This won't cost anything except your time.

 

[410Fortune]

deburring a OHV 4.0L block = LOTS OF TIME.