riddle me this, 2 different UCA's? | Ford Explorer Forums

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riddle me this, 2 different UCA's?

white_shadow

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 26, 2010
Messages
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City, State
north carolina
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 explorer xlt v8
98 xtl 2wd 5.0

passenger side UCA is 2 piece, while drivers side is 1 piece. someone explain this to me please.
 



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The two piece is designed as an extra way to adjust the front end. It's normal.
 






The two piece is designed as an extra way to adjust the front end. It's normal.

ahh, gotcha. i have never owned a vehicle with 2 different kinds of UCA's. im needing now upper ball joints, the single one looks like it has a bolt to loosen it up, is this correct?
 












If they are original you have to buy the entire upper arms as they don't press out. Let me know if you need the info from Rock Auto. They are a vendor here. This will help you.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194453

they are original, well im pretty sure of this. the boot is just crumbling, so they are due. im going to get the alignment checked soon and they will let me know. but im already planning on changing them, because the boot is shot.

edit: whats the difference between the rockauto ones and one i can get locally at a parts house? this truck is a DD, the most off road it will see is a gravel driveway. are the rockauto ones cheaper? better?
 


















For the price of Dormans at Autozone, you can get Motorcraft or ACDelcos from Rockauto. It's really a no-brainer.
 






I just replaced uppers on my 96 xlt V8. Also replaced alignment shims using moog caster/camber kits from Rock Auto. If you are going to replace your uppers, now is the time to add the caster/camber kits since you will have it apart anyway. Using the caster/camber kits makes it easier to align and the shop guy will love you for it. One kit per side, 2 kits total.

Be advised that on a V8 at least, the driver's side sucks. A heat shield will need to be removed along with 2 additional bolts on an as yet unidentified steel line to allow the rearward caster/camber bolt out. Its tight and requires patience, a break for the cursing of Ford engineers, application of more patience, yet more cursing. Its an exercise in spatial relations. Don't reverse the bolt heads, though you would be naturally tempted.
Make sure bolt heads face to the inside, the same as installed if you do this.

You can't see the bolts on this steel line... both are line clamps with one toward the front and one under the heat shield (naturally). When you get the line clamps loosened/removed you will be able to gently pry the mystery line out of the way enough to remove the rearward bolt IF you turn the bolt just so.
Oh, don't forget the band aids... this is a good time for the cursing of aforementioned engineers. Did I mention its tight?

Passenger side is straightforward and a piece of cake.

I use Moog gusher bearings with zerk fittings installed in the arms, Moog caster/camber kits, also did the sway bar bushings and sway bar end links while I was doing it. Got new Michelin MS II tires and alignment on Monday after the weekend job. It all made a lot of difference, drives great and my cuts scrapes and contusions are almost healed.
The drivers side sucks.
 






thanks for the info.
 






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