Right front brake hard line

[Dogwatch]

I can't find any diagrams showing how to route this line. I bought the part and it is prebent. After 4 hours lying under the truck in 100 degree heat, my 73 year old ass had to finally lay down the tools...I have the factory service manuals but they don't address this part, or even show it. The truck is a 4x4 and internet searches never show this. I'm guessing most of the successful installers are now in looney bins somewhere. Any help would be appreciated...

 

[410Fortune]

passenger front brake line
the new one is pre bent, does it match the shape of the old one?

I mean this should be very straight forward as long as the new part matches the old one.
The passenger brake line routing the end terminates in the metal keeper by the shock tower, then it routes along the engine cradle under the truck over to the ABS pump on the drivers fender skirt
Sport trac is same as ranger, maybe can find a diagram for a ranger? should match

 

[Dogwatch]

Yes it is prebent, no access to a lift, so jacked up on stands. I couldn't remove the old line so it was cut in at least three locations to get the parts out. The problem I'm having is the routing back in. Lots of stuff in the way, and being prebent it dosen't want to go in again. I'm guessing prebent lines are for frame off restoration, without stripping off loads of parts. I think this is a tough hill to climb. I can see all clip locations, and the wheel side is not a problem, the crossover and return back up to the ABS distribution point is a nightmare. Thanks for the Ranger advice. Same problem though. I know where all the clips are. I was hoping for a magic bullet suggestion for routing through a jumble of lines and hoses...

 

[J_C]

Yes, prebent lines aren't fun at all on most remotely modern, built vehicles. I'd just get some copper nickel (which is pretty easy to bend by hand) bulk line, inverted flare one end on a bench, bend by hand as you snake it through, leaving a few inches slack when you cut it, in case your on-vehicle flare doesn't turn out good and needs redone. Also make a few practice flares before hand. Don't forget to put the nuts on before flaring!

If you don't want to mess with flares, and can determine the length you need (or go with slightly longer and make creative bends to take up the slack), auto parts stores sell some lengths of pre-flared line with nuts on it, AGS Polyarmour brand at Autozone comes to mind. It is not as easy to bend as copper nickel, but if you have good hand strength, won't need a tool to do it.

Edit: However, if the other end terminates at the ABS, it probably uses a different nut size so that end would need cut and re-flared with that nut on it.

 

[Dogwatch]

Yes, prebent lines aren't fun at all on most remotely modern, built vehicles. I'd just get some copper nickel (which is pretty easy to bend by hand) bulk line, inverted flare one end on a bench, bend by hand as you snake it through, leaving a few inches slack when you cut it, in case your on-vehicle flare doesn't turn out good and needs redone. Also make a few practice flares before hand. Don't forget to put the nuts on before flaring!

If you don't want to mess with flares, and can determine the length you need (or go with slightly longer and make creative bends to take up the slack), auto parts stores sell some lengths of pre-flared line with nuts on it, AGS Polyarmour brand at Autozone comes to mind. It is not as easy to bend as copper nickel, but if you have good hand strength, won't need a tool to do it.

 

[Dogwatch]

Thanks for the information....but I decided to let shop run it. $200, which is cheaper than a funeral or a emergency clinic trip

 

[spetersen]

I'm doing the same job, waiting on the part, my line came out in one piece, but I did make a few bends to get it out
Edit: seems to be back ordered 'til who knows when, I have to do it the less professional way after all.