Rough Suspension Question

[spta97]

I've got a 2000 V8 XLT that I bought used with 26,000 miles. Since I've had it, it seems that the suspension is really rough. I'm happy with the handling, but every little bump in the road is translated into a harsh shock to the cabin. Even when the pavement changes I can feel the bump. On a pothole it is really brain rattling.

I'm pretty sure it is the stock suspension and I've only got 33,000 miles on it now. Also, in searching it seems that when the suspension goes bad it gets bouncy which is not the case. Is this normal for my X?

 

[Hartman]

The front suspension on Explorers just isn't very good at cushioning bumps. That's just the way it is, although your truck sounds like it needs new shocks. I would start there.

 

[Robb]

Hard to tell you if it is normal or not, "rough" is a subjective term. The mileage is low enough, that not too much should be wrong. My first guess would be shocks. Bad shocks can lead to bouncing, but they also lead to rough hits because they aren't softening the bumps like a good shock should. It is a little doubtful that your shocks could be bad at 33K, but for a DIY cost of about $80-$150 for all four, replacement shocks may help out your situation.

edit: yep, just like Hartman said

 

[spta97]

Well, I hear you about being subjective but the ride isn't much smoother than my Maxima which I've lowered 2" and put performance springs and KBY shocks. THAT is a rough ride. I'm tempted to replace the shocks and have read good (and some bad) things about the AutoZone Gabrial VSTs but one review said they were much firmer. I really want to soften the ride without sacrificing the handling. Any thoughts?

 

[spta97]

The front suspension on Explorers just isn't very good at cushioning bumps. That's just the way it is, although your truck sounds like it needs new shocks. I would start there.

What about my description leads you to believe the shocks are in need of replacement?

 

[Hartman]

Simple, you said the ride was rough. The shock is what dictates 90% of the firmness/softness of the ride on Explorers. Also check your tire pressure.

 

[spta97]

I just went out and tried the bouncing test front and rear. It took 3 bounces to come back to steady. From what I understand that is the indication that I need new shocks - do you agree?

Also, on a budget what do you think of the Gabriel VSTs for an on-road shock?

Thanks..

 

[Hartman]

Gabriel VSTs are so cheap that it's worth it to buy them even if your stock shocks aren't worn out. Give it a try.

 

[X~FACTOR]

The word is out that they stop making Gabriel VSTs but there is a better replacement with similar cost.

Could it be that you bought a lowered Explorer? Maybe the previous owner lowered it.

 

[spta97]

The word is out that they stop making Gabriel VSTs but there is a better replacement with similar cost.

Could it be that you bought a lowered Explorer? Maybe the previous owner lowered it.

Yes, it looks like the "Ultras" are the replacement model and have the same price. Comparing mine to others it does not look at all lowered (with the exception of the slumping back end ).

I tried the bounce test a few more times and it definitely fails. Everywhere I looked on line said this is a sure sign that new shocks are needed. I'm going to see if I can buy them tonight but won't be able to put them in until next weekend. At the same time I plan to do a tranny flush.

 

[Nick26]

are the bumps noisy too, any clunking sounds? if so that could mean you have other problems like ball joints, or even the torsion bar adjusters.

It is a little doubtful that your shocks could be bad at 33K...

typically yeah, but living in NY, NY and driving on those beat to hell roads every day you never know what kind of premature damage that could do, hell thats what sparked cdsl227 do SAS his even though he's in Brooklyn.

 

[spta97]

are the bumps noisy too, any clunking sounds? if so that could mean you have other problems like ball joints, or even the torsion bar adjusters.



typically yeah, but living in NY, NY and driving on those beat to hell roads every day you never know what kind of premature damage that could do, hell thats what sparked cdsl227 do SAS his even though he's in Brooklyn.

Yes, I do have a clunking sound from the right side. Arrg...how can all this be going wrong after 33k? I figure the shocks are definite, how do I test the ball joints and torsion bar?

I actually live in LI, NY but work in the city. Luckilly I don't drive in often but the roads in LI are no walk in the park either.

 

[Nick26]

for ball joints you need to jack the tire off the ground by the hook on the front of the control arm (don't do it by the center cross member because that will cause the tire to go full droop and will bind the ball joints so you won't be able to tell) then try and see if there is play in the wheel, push the top in as you pull the bottom out and vise versa. If you hear a clunk then thats a dead give away. Also if your ball joints are dieing then the tires may be starting to wear uneven, can you tell if they are? While you have it jacked up you can check the steering joints as well by doing the same type of test but horizontally. For check the torsion bars, you can refer to the description by aaron V8boatbuilder here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=841079&postcount=38

 

[spta97]

Thanks. The tires seem to be wearing fine...pleanty of tread after 33K which is why I didn't think the shocks were bad. Looks like next weekend is the Explorer weekend. I'll check the ball joints and steering joints while I'm addressing the tranny drain / refil and shocks.

Going back to your post, can I jack the X on the hook with a regular 3 1/2 ton jack? The cup is pretty big so I don't know if it will work.

Also, how much do the ball joints and torsion bar cost? This thing is turning into a money pit

 

[Nick26]

I just used my factory bottle jack when I checked mine. Lower ball joints are cheap(~$12) but its the labor that will cost you unless you have a press and or are handy with the BFH. If you decide to undertake this, there is a ton of info on this site from people who have replaced them so it'll just take a little searching to find out how to. upper ball joints require you to replace the whole upper control arm which I think I read you can get for ~$150. It isn't the torsion bar itself thats the problem, I believe its just the adjuster that gets replaced.

 

[spta97]

Thanks for all the great info. I'm hoping they are good, but I'll find out next weekend.