Thanks for the info gentlemen. I was looking at a 1992 ford f-150 on one of my racks that was in for some suspension and shock work. I found that these trucks come factory with a 1 1/4" cast iron spacer under the coils. I've ordered a pair from local dealer for $8:00 a piece and will keep you guys posted on the results. I think by looking at them that these will work. I'm not out any thing significant at that price. If it works it will solve the rake that this truck has in the front from this lift kit and hopefully solve the right side rubbing problem. Any one else with this problem?
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Sagging and Rubbing!
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I'm waiting for a fax copy to come over on the part number and the visual verification.
will also need to try these on the vehicle this friday to see how they work. I would let me be the guinnae pig on this one. I'll let ya know upon completion.
Nice truck by the way very clean and love the paint.
I'll be posting some before and after pictures soon and some "fun-in-the-mud" pictures.
Guff..............
will also need to try these on the vehicle this friday to see how they work. I would let me be the guinnae pig on this one. I'll let ya know upon completion.
Nice truck by the way very clean and love the paint.
I'll be posting some before and after pictures soon and some "fun-in-the-mud" pictures.
Guff..............
JYoung
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If you get these get them for the 2w dr.The 4w dr spacers have brackets for the stabilizer bar.
The part # form the mitchell manual
for 2w dr is R F2TZ 5A307 E
L F2TZ 5A307 F
The part # form the mitchell manual
for 2w dr is R F2TZ 5A307 E
L F2TZ 5A307 F
All right gentlemen I've got the information concerning the spacers to go under the front coils.
Fords part numbers are as follows: f2tz5a307a and f2tz5a307b for the spacers. You might want to get the insulators which are: e9tz5414b these will help keep the springs quiet on the spacers.
I also found by calling Super Lifts tech support line (318-397-8064) that there is a redesigned spring for the Explorers (part# 133 instead of the #118 that comes with the kit). The #118 is for the Ranger which has a lighter engine and cab weight. This is the reason for the sag. I found by calling and telling them the part number I have they just sent me a new set of springs at no cost.
I went ahead and installed the spacers with the new springs and installed a Bell tech 2" block kit in the rear (#6100) . This gave me a completely new look. Be aware some modifications will need to be done to the blocks such as hogging out the spring pack locating bolt hole to accomidate the 9/16" bolt head. and it would be easier to get the u-bolts on if you install a flat section on the inside of the bolt with a peanut grinder bit on your die grinder. Look at the factory u-bolts and use them as a guide for this procedure.
The only problem I now have is the excessive negative camber that the truck has and the bump steer. I'm currentyl looking into a longer drop pitman and idler than is supplied in the super steer kit to resolve the bump steer. As far as the caster is concerned I've noticed that the radius arm drop brackets only give 4" of drop. shouldn't they be 5.5" to match the rest of the lift? My front axles are twisted forward as a result and is causing severe negative caster as well as I-beam bushing wear. This was going on before i installed the spacers and new springs.
Also the coils are bowed forward as a result of the twisted I beams. Super lift says the only have one drop bracket for both 4" and 5.5" lifts. I may end up fabing myself a bracket to get it right. I did find out that there is a problem with the I beam drop brackets moving the axles laterally from right to left resulting in the wheel sticking out to far on the left and in too far on the right. There is a updated bracket that they will send to you to resolve this. I don't have this problem but I asked for the brackets anyway just in case.
Any one else experiencing the axle twist or negative caster problem which is not correctable by aftermarket adjusting bushings? Send me some info as I can't really drive my truck due to the tire wear caused by the bump steer.
It does look awesome and have found it turns many more heads than before. My personalized liscense plates say BEEEST and the name truly does fit now!
Fords part numbers are as follows: f2tz5a307a and f2tz5a307b for the spacers. You might want to get the insulators which are: e9tz5414b these will help keep the springs quiet on the spacers.
I also found by calling Super Lifts tech support line (318-397-8064) that there is a redesigned spring for the Explorers (part# 133 instead of the #118 that comes with the kit). The #118 is for the Ranger which has a lighter engine and cab weight. This is the reason for the sag. I found by calling and telling them the part number I have they just sent me a new set of springs at no cost.
I went ahead and installed the spacers with the new springs and installed a Bell tech 2" block kit in the rear (#6100) . This gave me a completely new look. Be aware some modifications will need to be done to the blocks such as hogging out the spring pack locating bolt hole to accomidate the 9/16" bolt head. and it would be easier to get the u-bolts on if you install a flat section on the inside of the bolt with a peanut grinder bit on your die grinder. Look at the factory u-bolts and use them as a guide for this procedure.
The only problem I now have is the excessive negative camber that the truck has and the bump steer. I'm currentyl looking into a longer drop pitman and idler than is supplied in the super steer kit to resolve the bump steer. As far as the caster is concerned I've noticed that the radius arm drop brackets only give 4" of drop. shouldn't they be 5.5" to match the rest of the lift? My front axles are twisted forward as a result and is causing severe negative caster as well as I-beam bushing wear. This was going on before i installed the spacers and new springs.
Also the coils are bowed forward as a result of the twisted I beams. Super lift says the only have one drop bracket for both 4" and 5.5" lifts. I may end up fabing myself a bracket to get it right. I did find out that there is a problem with the I beam drop brackets moving the axles laterally from right to left resulting in the wheel sticking out to far on the left and in too far on the right. There is a updated bracket that they will send to you to resolve this. I don't have this problem but I asked for the brackets anyway just in case.
Any one else experiencing the axle twist or negative caster problem which is not correctable by aftermarket adjusting bushings? Send me some info as I can't really drive my truck due to the tire wear caused by the bump steer.
It does look awesome and have found it turns many more heads than before. My personalized liscense plates say BEEEST and the name truly does fit now!
CAC91
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You need to explain yourself more. When you say negative caster do you mean camber? The only thing that should affect caster is the radius arm; it positions the axle housings front to rear and is where the caster "comes from." Also why is bumpsteer wearing out your tires?
I mean negative caster. Sorry meant to say caster in my opening paragraph. I'm have excessive negative caster as a result of the coil spring spacers I'm running but it has always had the twisted problem and have always had a low caster reading (around 2 degrees) Changing ride heigth will effect caster because you are pivoting the front axles away from the frame due to the radius arms and changing camber can effect caster to some degree.
The bump steering I am refering to is when you hit dips in the road and the truck takes off to one direction or the other and the tires squeel because of the excessive toe out. This is partly because the caster angle is setting somewhere around -1.25 degrees and the fact that the angle of the steering linkage has increased so when suspension extends on the rebound it pulls on the tie rods and linkage changing the toe. I had my girl fried drive the truck while I drove next to her in my other car and could watch the wheels move in and out as the suspension traveled up and down. Scary stuff to witness.
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Gulf - On the drop brackets, make sure your using the lowest hole. that's the 5.5" drop point - the hole above it is the 4" drop point.
tdavis- Are you sure you're refering to the "radius arm" brackets and not the "i-beam" brackets. The I beam brackets are the ones with two holes for the 4" or 5.5" lift. My radius arm brackets only have one option which measures 4".
Maybe I do have the incorrect radius arm brackets in spite of what Super lift says. My plan was today to fabricate a new bracket or space the existing one somehow. Can any one help with this project or offer a suggestion. This is getting very frustrating. I had to do a curb side alignment last night so I can get to my shop for a real alignment. The toe keeps changing daily it seems. This recent toe set (curb) seems to have made it drive a lot better. I set it toed in to allow for natural laws of friction and force to spread the tires while driving to hopefully zero toe or so.
Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
thanks, Guff......
Maybe I do have the incorrect radius arm brackets in spite of what Super lift says. My plan was today to fabricate a new bracket or space the existing one somehow. Can any one help with this project or offer a suggestion. This is getting very frustrating. I had to do a curb side alignment last night so I can get to my shop for a real alignment. The toe keeps changing daily it seems. This recent toe set (curb) seems to have made it drive a lot better. I set it toed in to allow for natural laws of friction and force to spread the tires while driving to hopefully zero toe or so.
Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
thanks, Guff......
- Joined
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Guff - nope, I was talking about the TTB drop brackets.
Do you have the extended radius arms? that could part of your problem - the extended radius arms makes a difference in the alignment, and since you've hitched yours up 3-4 inches higher than superlift designed it for, your going to have the same sort of problems a stock w/2"lift from springs and no brackets is going to have.
I run the superrunner kit, which came with extended radius arms - so I have no idea what the stock radius arms really look like on the 5.5"/4" kits.
Do you have the extended radius arms? that could part of your problem - the extended radius arms makes a difference in the alignment, and since you've hitched yours up 3-4 inches higher than superlift designed it for, your going to have the same sort of problems a stock w/2"lift from springs and no brackets is going to have.
I run the superrunner kit, which came with extended radius arms - so I have no idea what the stock radius arms really look like on the 5.5"/4" kits.
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