Scott B.'s 4.0 OHV Rebuild

After 313,000 miles, I have decided it is time to replace the engine and transmission in my '93 Ranger. My original engine and transmission have given flawless service over the past 17 years and 3 months. The engine always starts with a bump of the key, and the transmission does not slip.

Part of me thinks I should keep going - to see how many miles I can get on the original equipment. Of course, the engine is leaking oil - a slow leak, that I've had for many years, has gotten a lot worse since I came back from Colorado last year. The transmission leaks a little, too - and only boiled over once, about 10 years ago.

For me, there are three options for replacement - swap in a 5.0, swap in a 4.0 SOHC, and rebuild (and build) the original 4.0 OHV. After much contemplation, I have decided to rebuild/build the original 4.0, and replace the A4LD transmission with another A4LD.

I have done a lot of research about the engines online, and worked out my requirements for the replacement. With that, I have developed a game plan, if you will, of how to build this engine.

Along with this new engine and transmission, will be many other changes/upgrades to the truck. For those that may be interested, you can follow those updates in my registry.

 

[jd4242]

Unless you are planning on going to some really cold areas, I don't see a need for a block heater. I spent 5 winters in Minot, ND, and needed a block heater to start in the winter (needed to heat the oil so the engine would turn fast enough to start). Anywhere souuth of Nebraska and east of the Rockies, you won't need a block heater IMO.

Huh who said anything about a block heater

 

[jd4242]

Seeing as I would really rather use the 422, some questions:

1. How does the engine idle? I don't mind if it sounds "lumpy" (in fact, would prefer it!), but does it idle at 600 RPM?

2. Will I need to change injectors to feed the fuel?

3. Will the computer handle it? I do have a de-tuned Superchip, that I am considering replacing with a Jet (or ???)

I'm not trying to build a mileage monster, but I do drive a lot, and like to wheel out west - so 15 MPG would be appreciated.

10:1 us fine on pump gas.yes it is lumpy and will idle at 600. A tune is preferred but will run fine..048 is the MAX i wouldnt go over .03

 

[Scott B.]

Huh who said anything about a block heater

It's mentioned in the second post, in the section about the engine block.

 

[Ronin8002]

I am sure JD4242 will chime in too, but when I had the 422, it ran fine with the stock computer, though a tune will maximize the benefits from the additional airflow. Idled at 800 RPM...had some chop, but it just sounded cool...didn't interfere with intake vacuum level at all. Bigger injectors are not needed unless you are doing something big, ie, forced induction or some types of nitrous setups.

Mileage should be improved, especially if you are running 10:1 compression.

Seeing as I would really rather use the 422, some questions:

1. How does the engine idle? I don't mind if it sounds "lumpy" (in fact, would prefer it!), but does it idle at 600 RPM?

2. Will I need to change injectors to feed the fuel?

3. Will the computer handle it? I do have a de-tuned Superchip, that I am considering replacing with a Jet (or ???)

I'm not trying to build a mileage monster, but I do drive a lot, and like to wheel out west - so 15 MPG would be appreciated.

 

[jd4242]

It's mentioned in the second post, in the section about the engine block.

Oo ok i see it haha thought he might have been posting in the wrong thread,ive done that haha.im sure it does come in handy in cold weather and the less wear the better!

 

[jd4242]

I am sure JD4242 will chime in too, but when I had the 422, it ran fine with the stock computer, though a tune will maximize the benefits from the additional airflow. Idled at 800 RPM...had some chop, but it just sounded cool...didn't interfere with intake vacuum level at all. Bigger injectors are not needed unless you are doing something big, ie, forced induction or some types of nitrous setups.

Mileage should be improved, especially if you are running 10:1 compression.

yea i have mine set for 800 in neutral and it idles at 500 to 600 in gear.if it was up to me i would put a higher stall converter in because yes it will idle at 500 in gear but sometime acts like it wants to stall out.im going to be redoing my trans again and putting in a 7 clutch pack and a higher stall so i can lower my idle speeds to really get that lumpy sound and not worry about stalling didnt you have a higher stall in yours james?
http://www.transmissioncenter.org/a4ld.htm

 

[Ronin8002]

I ran the stock a4ld for just a little bit but started having issues when I put the vortech supercharger on. Trans was probably on its way out anyway...I think the blower just finished it off lol. So I ended up running a built 700R4 with a 2500 stall converter. Had plenty of get up and go but it ran too hot for my liking. I had some big tranny coolers on it and still was seeing 190-200 degree trans temps so it would spit fluid out of the overflow vent on hot days. I did have an 800 rpm idle when in gear though.
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[Falconkeeper]

Using the block heater because you have it is a good reason. Works for me.

 

[Scott B.]

Some Parts

I have ordered and received the valves, crankshaft balancer and bolt and a new flex plate. (Ford part numbers are in the second post.)

As for the schedule, I was originally planning on having this finished before the expedition in March. I don't know that there is enough time to build and break-in a new engine by then, so I might not complete this project until after the trip - we shall see.

 

[Tbars4]

...Get to crackin or you are a slacker...:

...Don't go taking it easy now...Get R Done...

 

[Scott B.]

...Get to crackin or you are a slacker...:

...Don't go taking it easy now...Get R Done...

There is also another decision (possible change in plans) being contemplated...