screwed up wheel bearings

[kona_mtb]

I took apart my wheel bearings out today and realized that the one was completely blown apart. Which had been causing the weird noises up front. So I bought two new bearings packed them with grease, went to put them on and then wouldn't go on all the way so I went to pull them off and to my suprise it wouldnt come off. I pulled on it and the rotor came off and the bearing stayed on. And when I tried to pull off the bearing if was stuck. I pulled and pulled and it would not come off. What is the problem here??? It wont go forward or off

 

[ragajungle]

Enter the early Twin Traction Beam Suspension

I have been here so much... I am guessing when you put it on you didn't buff and smooth out the spindle hub? If there were any imperfections in it or if you put on ****ed it will be a slow and painstaking process getting it back off. All you an really do it tap, tap, tap on one side of the bearing race and then tap, tap, tap lightly on the other side and eventually you will wiggle it off.


Word of advise - when you do get it off use some 2000 grit sand paper and buff out the scoring and imperfections the best you can.
When reinstalling the bearings. Be sure to clean any debris off - as to not contaminate the lube. This really should be performed like a surgery because it is so critical that you get it right - if not you could loose a wheel on the highway and worse.

(While turning the rotor by hand) tighten the spindle nut to 20 lbs-ft, then back off a quarter turn and retorque to 20 lb-in..

<Make sure the hubs are lubed with ONLY ATF - not grease>

-Mike

 

[kona_mtb]

No I defiantly didn't and I actually went back and looked and its scored pretty good to the touch. I am guessing the old bearing locked and started to turn on the spindle and wear a groove into the spindle. How much damage can occur before you have to replace the spindle?

 

[ragajungle]

No I defiantly didn't and I actually went back and looked and its scored pretty good to the touch. I am guessing the old bearing locked and started to turn on the spindle and wear a groove into the spindle. How much damage can occur before you have to replace the spindle?

Depends.... It is a gamble to ride on scored spindles. I wouldn't recommend it at all, but if you have to (Like I am currently doing) make plans to replace the spindle asap.

I just had a bearing seize on my a couple weeks ago going 55mph...truck did the death wobble and I barely got pulled off the road. I am currently saving for a SAS on mine -

 

[ragajungle]

On the plus side a spindle replacement will be under $100 dollars new and readily available at any JY for under $20
-tho not fun to take off, you gotta use MAPP Gas to heat bolts and a BFH to poud the PITA off.

 

[ragajungle]

Here is an OEM new one from one of my favorite sites:
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-82005-oem-d35-ttb-spindle.html

 

[kona_mtb]

What are the steps in disassembling before taking it off. Is it just taking off those 5 screws and then pounding the hell out of the things till it comes off? I heard it can be quite difficult to pull off>

 

[ragajungle]

it is a *****...

MAPP Gas to heat up 5 spindle bolts (Available at Lowes or Menards)
PB Blaster (Soak around it repeatedly)
A Chisel to go along the edges of the spindle
A Big F*ckin Hammer -BFH to whack at the spindle

Some people use a puller but I broke 2 of them-so I had to resort to a hammer and chisel.

I did mine in about an hour on my Bronco II. It is quite a workout, but doable.

 

[ragajungle]

One more thing - When I took to my spindle I mangled the threads on 2 of the bolts and they are impossible to find... I looked high and low. So be extra cautious as to not hurt the threads. I lucked out and thanks to generosity of Rookshooter, a contributor here - he shipped me a set. I do have extras so If you find you need them PM me and I will definitely pay it forward and ship you the remainders.

-Mike

 

[kona_mtb]

Thanks for the help but suprisingly it came off with three hits on a chisel behind the spindle.

 

[Tony H]

No no no. Take the 6 nuts off, screw on a Spindle Socket and Slide hammer. two pulls on the slide hammer and the Spindle is off. Nothing beat up, nothing mangled, nothing bent.

Lisle #22200 for instance. The right tools for the job

Put bearing grease on the Knuckle where the Spindle touches so it comes off even easier next time.

 

[kona_mtb]

So I found a new spindle, put some new races, wheel bearings and seal, cleaned it all up and re-greased it all. Put it together and it solved the crazy cracking noise from the left side. However, I know have a new problem. The steering seems a little weird and it pulls to the right while im driving (it did this before I change all this). In addition, when I brake it pulls really hard to the right. Lastly, my brake pedal is slow to come back up after applying the brakes. Any suggestions? Tomorrow I am going to take apart the right side, clean it all up, and possibly change out the right wheel bearings. IF this doesn't work I will look at the brakes. Should these be the first two things I check? What else should I check?

 

[Anime]

If it drifts to the right and pulls even harder to the right when braking, likely one of the brakes on the right side is dragging. Either a stuck/seized caliper or drum. You'll need to pop off the wheels and check out the caliper, pull the drum off in the rear and see what's what.

If it looks like the caliper is bad, you can buy a kit to rebuild them, otherwise they are super cheap to buy rebuilt, $13-16 bucks at Napa down here, likely inexpensive in Canada as well. I say replace both at the same time. If it's the rear it's probably the cylinders, again super cheap to replace.

Good time to do a once-over on all the brake hardware, as well as double check all the hoses and hard lines, too.

 

[Tony H]

Sounds like the Drivers side front Caliper is frozen. The Pads on that side are not touching the Rotor at all. The passenger side pads and caliper are acting normally .. slight drag when not braking ( causing the drift to the Right while driving) then pressure when braking only on the Passenger side will cause the Pull to the Right.
.

I'm betting the caliper on the Drivers side is frozen.

 

[huntman58]

If it drifts to the right and pulls even harder to the right when braking, likely one of the brakes on the right side is dragging. Either a stuck/seized caliper or drum. You'll need to pop off the wheels and check out the caliper, pull the drum off in the rear and see what's what.

If it looks like the caliper is bad, you can buy a kit to rebuild them, otherwise they are super cheap to buy rebuilt, $13-16 bucks at Napa down here, likely inexpensive in Canada as well. I say replace both at the same time. If it's the rear it's probably the cylinders, again super cheap to replace.

Good time to do a once-over on all the brake hardware, as well as double check all the hoses and hard lines, too.

X2 been there done that got the tee to prove it!