Shock replacements

[CDW6212R]

Wow! The Magnums are definitely a nicer riding street shock than the Rancho 5000. Went for a quick test loop after installing them and was able to hit the expansion joint which had previously cause the truck to shudder. Nice smooth "thump", still more firm control than a boat like luxury car ride. Rebound is slower too, no more bouncing back up too quickly.

Question, do you recall which of the gas magnum's you bought? I need to change my fronts again, and I see there's a black version for about $38, and a yellow one that is close to $80 each.

That was on Rock Auto, and the info page shows a difference in range of motion, something like 4.6" versus 6.9" of travel. I like the $40 price range better, over $75 and there should be something special about a shock.

 

[swshawaii]

Don, I believe the longer travel is for RWD. Strange thing is Monroe seems to be the only shock company doing this. For my 2-1/2" lowered ST there is 2" increased travel with the RWD front shocks. Although I'm likely out of Monroe's "comfort zone" for the Sensatrac (OE Spectrum) valving, it's nice to have the added travel.

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks, I read that RWD detail also. I don't see why they would make such a difference in travel range, given identical suspension parts. It wouldn't make sense to build in a travel limit, that would just create an abrupt reaction, and damage the shocks eventually. I figured the spec of 4.6" was just a misprint. My work truck doesn't need extreme shocks, but full travel is needed in all applications. I'll get the black ones and see how they do. The Sensatrac's I have had on for 75k miles did fine, controlled and didn't change, wear out.

I haven't been able to get the front ride height lowered in that 99 or my newest 98 truck. Obtaining a proper camber with lowering isn't easy in every truck. I'll be replacing the entire front suspension this time in my 99, the only new parts it had were lower BJ's. So it's time, and I'll try again at the camber, with the special washers and bolts the alignment shop couldn't make it work below stock height. This time though it will be using the stock spindles, I put the 2001+ Sport spindles on it from the start, for the 12" rotor. Now I'll swap those with my Mercury, and try the original 99 spindles which I've never used. Maybe those will let it be lowered. Only my 98 Mercury spindles have let me lower it so far. Those I'll put on the 98 Limited later on, and bring it down some.

 

[swshawaii]

Excellent, would love to follow your progress.

Here's my alignment printout after three failed attempts by three different tire chain shops. OP, sorry for straying off topic.

 

[swshawaii]

Had a problem with the UCA nuts loosening twice using the 100 ft/lb. torque spec. Went a step above using green penetrating Loctite and used M14x1.50 jam nuts being careful not to move the bolt heads. Moog K80065 (1-5/8*) seemed to have enough adjustment to get into green range. This is the PITA drivers rear "bolt from hell" that almost everyone struggles with removing.

 

[CDW6212R]

I've had one pair of UCA bolts become loose, long ago on my Mercury before I replaced tires the 2nd time(2004ish). I guessed the shop didn't get them tight enough, hoping that was unusual.

 

[MetricMuscle]

Question, do you recall which of the gas magnum's you bought? I need to change my fronts again, and I see there's a black version for about $38, and a yellow one that is close to $80 each.

That was on Rock Auto, and the info page shows a difference in range of motion, something like 4.6" versus 6.9" of travel. I like the $40 price range better, over $75 and there should be something special about a shock.

The one's I got were the only listed for AWD, Gas Magnum, they are yellow but are shown black in the ad, 34804 is the part number, in the $40 per shock range.

I wonder if the RWD shocks for the front have lots more travel since they can be a full length shock, no front axles to avoid.

 

[swshawaii]

Think you nailed it MetricMuscle. I knew there was a reason RWD front shocks should not be used on 4WD. Quote below was from 2006, too bad pics are no more.

Woke up to this this morning, After looking at the part number on the dam shock. They are the 2WD shock not the 4WD, and the axle clamp wore a hole in the shock... ARGH!!!!!!

Make sure they don't Install 2wd shocks on your 4wd !! :-( :-(

 

[CDW6212R]

The one's I got were the only listed for AWD, Gas Magnum, they are yellow but are shown black in the ad, 34804 is the part number, in the $40 per shock range.

I wonder if the RWD shocks for the front have lots more travel since they can be a full length shock, no front axles to avoid.

Thanks for the reply. That's the model number I have in the cart with Rock Auto. I'll buy those, along with six heater hoses I just researched for. You can't have too many of those as spares.


The "RWD" shocks from some brands must be larger at the bottom to interfere with the axles. I've had the shocks off countless times, there's a ton of space between the axle and the shock. I can't imagine a shock so big it would be too close to the axle.

 

[poker4me007]

I've had one pair of UCA bolts become loose, long ago on my Mercury before I replaced tires the 2nd time(2004ish). I guessed the shop didn't get them tight enough, hoping that was unusual.

It's not that unusual, a week ago I put new UCA's on mine and got an alignment. Saw it mentioned, probably on this forum that they get lose.So next day went and checked the bolts with a torque wrench set at 100 ft lbs, and each nut turned about a full turn.
I don't know if they just got lose or garage did a bad job. ( only about 2 miles from my house)
Decided I would mark them with some white paint and recheck the torque at about 500 miles.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good catch. I can say confidently that almost all alignment shops will tighten those bolts without a torque wrench. They use wrenches a bunch for those kinds of bolts, and most experts with years of experience, rely on feel of their hands to gauge tightness. I trust the shop I got to, same place and 2-3 employees I've seen for 20+ years. But they aren't perfect no doubt. We trust as much as we can, but double checking is always a good idea.

 

[MetricMuscle]

Good catch. I can say confidently that almost all alignment shops will tighten those bolts without a torque wrench. They use wrenches a bunch for those kinds of bolts, and most experts with years of experience, rely on feel of their hands to gauge tightness. I trust the shop I got to, same place and 2-3 employees I've seen for 20+ years. But they aren't perfect no doubt. We trust as much as we can, but double checking is always a good idea.

What shop do you use?

Has anyone gone to an alignment shop with specific alignment numbers for the tech to hit instead of a "range"? Sportscar folks do this, can't see why they couldn't on a truck.

After more street only driving with the Gas Magnums, I like them better than the Rancho 5000 for sure but I wonder what the OESpectrum are like.

The Gas Magnums get better with speed. Feel kinda stiff at slower speeds but really smooth out at highway speeds while maintaining control. Might feel better if lowered, kinda jerky in a truck.

 

[CDW6212R]

I go to Pete's Alignment near Central St. They are an old school kind of place, easy to work with and trust worthy. I've had them give me camber numbers more on the negative side, for my cars. They can do that if you ask them to. A harder driver will wear the outer edges more, so more negative camber gives better tire wear. But lowering these trucks adds camber to them, it's harder to get decent numbers the lower it goes.