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Shorted to Ground electrical problem????? or something worse

The problem is.....if you had a shorted power wire that wasn't fuse blown......you'd have melting wire and smoke.....and sometimes fire. Does the battery only drain when you drive it or does it only drain when it is sitting in the driveway?
 



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So you have battery completely disconnected on positive side now?
 






It drains when it sits in the drive way.

I replaced the fuse which was suspected on being shorted but not blown.
 






It drains when it sits in the drive way.

I replaced the fuse which was suspected on being shorted but not blown.

If you are seeing a power drain with it sitting (not running) and ignition key removed, the something is still powered up that shouldn't be. I would still look closely at the circuit you "tapped into" for ignition power. Did you connect onto the output side of the fuse ?
 






Fuses don't short.....that is their job. It's when they open, that they are bad. It's the circuit before or after the fuse that can short. Usually the load side of the circuit shorts. But if that happened, then the fuse would have blown.
 






It is attached at the batter stud and the terminal that goes to the fuse box is pulled and just connected through the maxi fuse to the thick black alternator wire.
 






I agree with Verno......I would check that you tied into the right side of the circuit. It you are on the wrong side, the indicator would be powered all the time and drain your battery.
 






it was one of those add a fuse taps. So it plugs into the fuse location and the has 2 fuses connected to it. One for the original circuit and one for the added one and has a power wire xomming out of it to crimp into
 






I can spin the tap around so the posts are switched in the fuse location and see
 






If it's for the ignition circuit, it should be powered all of the time. You might to tie it in somewhere else or add a switch to remove power when not in use.
 






Well, with the car off, just do a voltage check at that wire that you spliced with. The ignition is wired hot up to the ignition key. The key is used as the switch to complete the circuit. I'm guessing that you will find that wire to have power when the car is off.
 






Now that I'm reading back in the thread, fuse 13 is "Hot at all times" (30A) fuse that feeds the PCM power relay. I didn't see a fuse 14, but there was a fuse 4 that is "Hot at all times" also. Fuse 11 (15A) is "Hot in Run or Start" This would be a better spot to tie in your new indicator.
 






well I able to find the short. After I took apart the steering column and pull the ignition lock cylinder and found that the blue plastic clip (part #a1135-d) had cracked and had a metal to metal contact whether the key cylinder was in any position. The only pain now is trying to find the part since it is part of a entire electrical harness.

After the clip was pulled off the voltage was 0.00 and the drain was gone

Also the LC-1 had shorted since it was tapped into an ignition fuse that was constantly pulling voltage and the spikes from cranking the engine over a stretch of time fried it

Thank you all for your help

If anyone has a specifc place that they order random electrical parts for their X let me know. Gonna start searching the net now for one
 






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