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Should I build?

exploader96

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April 17, 2013
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 Ford Explorer
96 Explorer XLT
4.0 SOHC
2WD Automatic
196,x.. Miles

I gave it to my trusted mechanic to check for any problems and clear it for at least 100k more miles. He told me things I already knew I had to replace, but when I asked if I'd be alright to install performance parts he said to keep it stock. I told him I just wanted to add simple parts such as high flow cats/mufflers and a K&N intake. I was also planing on getting MSD parts for the whole Engine Managment System and possibly some "light" intake work. I explained to him that I would make sure I used quality parts, have them installed correctly, and keep the engine tuned accordingly.

My mechanic claims that the engine is used to running with the parts on it, and says I should leave basically everything bone stock- only replacing them with OEM parts. Is my mechanic right or is he just a "don't fix what ain't broken" kind of guy?
 



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by now everyone knows that i'm not a fan of the 4.0 SOHC motor, but that aside - i wouldn't put that money into a 17 year old truck with 200,000 on it. no one can predict how much longer it will last. it could go another 100,000 miles or it could die w/in the next 10,000 miles. unless you love this truck and are willing to keep putting money into it well beyond its valve, i'd start saving for something newer. JMHO
 






I am willing to go passed the value in parts, but I would still like to avoid blowing up the engine or causing an internal problem.
 






1996 sohc v6?

Are you sure that you have the SOHC V6 engine? It was my understanding that the SOHC V6 was only installed in the 1997 and later models. If the 8th digit in the VIN is an "E" then you have the SOHC V6. If it is an "X" then you have the OHV V6.

In my opinion, in general, if you want reliability (another 100K miles) then avoid performance components. The higher performance you achieve the more you'll be tempted to utilize it adding stress to the engine. On the other hand, you'll observe very little performance increase from adding a K&N air intake. You'd probably achieve more with a drop-in high flow/filtration Amsoil filter. Unless your cats are partially blocked, if you have the OHV V6 it probably doesn't flow enough air at WOT to detect any max performance difference with a high flow exhaust.
 






The 8th digit is an X so yeah you're right it is OHV. Is that the better of the 4.0L engines?

Also I have taken off the factory air box and filter and replaced it with a Spectre filter from Advanced Auto. Also removed the PVC valve and replaced it with a Spectre breather/filter. That gave me a little bit bit more MPG and power, but not much. So I think going with the whole K&N intake wouldn't be much of a difference.
 






the OHV 4.0 is a more reliable engine than the SOHC, so arguably better. the down side of the OHV motor is that it makes less horsepower than the SOHC motor. i gotta agree with 2000streetrod on adding performance goodies (doubt there's much available for the motor) as it may temp you to drive it harder. at 200K, you'll kill it that much sooner. i'd just maintain it well, drive it gently and enjoy it as is.
 






unmetered air

I suspected that you had the OHV V6 because of the year and the fact you have achieved almost 200K miles without major problems. The OHV V6 has significantly less power than the SOHC and is more prone to blow head gaskets if allowed to overheat. However, the SOHC timing chain components are prone to fail before 150K miles.

Replacing the PCV with a small breather allows air that is not monitored by the MAF sensor to enter the crankcase. If there is still a path from the crankcase to the intake manifold then the fuel mixture will be lean. It is more prevalent at idle when the ratio of the unmetered air to metered air is greatest. The PCM will detect the lean mixture from the O2 sensors and adjust the fuel trims to achieve the correct air/fuel ratio. In my opinion, venting unburned crankcase fumes to the atmosphere only increases pollution. It does nothing to improve performance or fuel economy.
 






Alright thanks for the advice. What components in the engine are probably worn the most? Would it be the cylinders and heads? Or would I be able to just replace the gaskets, cams & valvetrain and be like back to 0 miles?
 






no direct OHV experience

Unfortunately, I have no direct 4.0L OHV experience. All of my direct experience is with the SOHC V6. Hopefully, other members will respond. However, according to Wikipedia the 4.0L OHV was used in Explorers, and Rangers thru model year 2000. I doubt it is a highly sought after engine (160 BHp) and may be readily available in salvage yards. It may be cheaper to replace your engine with a lower mileage salvage engine than to rebuild.
 












OHV mods

there are a few things that can be done to get power out of an OHV 4.0, but cost and time become a factor on most of those mods. Some of which include 2 camshaft selections for about $400 + time(Comp Cams 410 or 422), using 95tm heads for increased compression with a port job for $750 + time(which you already have), and installing SOHC pistons into an OHV motor (same size pistons, SOHC are flat top, OHV are dish) which will also increase compression for about $200 + time. Those all together will give you roughly 250 HP but by then you have torn the motor completely apart and still need to check/ replace everything else in the motor to make everything new. Id say run the motor you have til it dies, save your money til then, and rebuild it better than it better than it was before.
 






Yeah I like the idea, I'll probably stick with that. I appreciate the advice guys.
 






why not consider picking up a used 4.0 OHV engine, do whatever you want to it, as your time and budget allows. meanwhile, continue driving your truck with the old motor. when the rebuilt engine is ready, drop it in.
 






I agree!

why not consider picking up a used 4.0 OHV engine, do whatever you want to it, as your time and budget allows. meanwhile, continue driving your truck with the old motor. when the rebuilt engine is ready, drop it in.

Sounds like a good plan for minimal vehicle down time. The additional cost of the salvage engine purchase will be offset by avoiding the cost of no vehicle use during rebuilding the original engine.
 












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