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Should I?

iAaronHD

Member
Joined
March 12, 2012
Messages
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City, State
Memphis, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
01' Explorer Sport
Right now my 01 Ex. Sport 4x4 needs a new set of rotors and brakes. I plan to replaced them myself in about two weeks as doing this is pretty minor. I'm not very savy with working on vehicles, which leads me to the point of this post. My EX is in desperate need for a set of lower ball joints and depending on the answers I get in this thread I want to attempt to replace them around the same time I replaced my brakes; my question is do you think a noob such as myself should attempt this repair? With all honesty I believe I can do it, but if a professional who has experience doing so tells me that it's no job for beginners then I will not take a hand at it. Please let me know what you think.
 



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I'd say if you can do brakes and rotors with ease, then the ball joint shouldn't be a big problem. You may have to rent a Ball joint press (super heavy duty "C" clamp) to remove the old one and press the new one in, but other than that you should be ok. Just get a good manual and follow the directions.
 






Right now my 01 Ex. Sport 4x4 needs a new set of rotors and brakes. I plan to replaced them myself in about two weeks as doing this is pretty minor. I'm not very savy with working on vehicles, which leads me to the point of this post. My EX is in desperate need for a set of lower ball joints and depending on the answers I get in this thread I want to attempt to replace them around the same time I replaced my brakes; my question is do you think a noob such as myself should attempt this repair? With all honesty I believe I can do it, but if a professional who has experience doing so tells me that it's no job for beginners then I will not take a hand at it. Please let me know what you think.

you dont sound confident to me, have you a plan if something goes wrong (murphys law) have you done this type of job before ? have you all the tools, have you a mate you can call on. i would try a simpler mechanical job like a service, i am a mechanic by trade and would advise you not to try unless you can do it under expert supervision
 






I say go for it, if, and only if, you have another means of transportation while this one is down.
 






I would say totally go for it. Doing the lower ball joints and uca for me was the first repair I did on mine about a year and a half ago. With the help of this site and other web pages I was able to do it. I have done a crap load of repairs and maintenance since then, I kinda got addicted after realizing how much money I was wasting to pay someone to do it and rather put that money into upgrading things and preventative maintenance.
That being said, it did take me about 6hrs though because I took my time and had to run to the store a couple of times. So the best thing to do is have all your tools ready to streamline things. It should be pretty easy to do when you have the rotors off since that takes some of the weight off of the spindle.
 






I did mine a few months back upper and lower.

Renting the ball joint press is a must!, also having an impact gun is a huge asset electric or air.

Here is a list of tools that will help you out when doing this.

-Balljoint press
-32mm socket for the hubs
-pickle fork for the balljoint (this will help in getting the hub assembly off the A-arm.
-Long breaker bar
-penetrating oil (soak the lower ball joint in penetrating oil well before you start)
-Needle nose pliers for the c-clips
-Big hammer

That should get you where you need to be. asuming you have basic tools around as well.
 






I have done this job about two dozen times now between my own and other people's trucks. I have found the ball joint press is more frustration than anything else. Usually it isnt wide enough to fit with both cups installed, requires you to pretty much take everything off the truck, and even then is terrible at actually removing and installing the ball joint. Heck I had one I rented bend out to the point of uselessness (cast iron, not hardened). The one thing you will use from the press kit is the cups, however they are too tall for the press and too short to work with anything else. It is substantially better to hammer out the old ball joint with a 3 pound hammer. Get a 2-1/8" ID x 4" to 6" long pipe fitting. $3 exhaust pipe works for a couple uses, or spend $8 at any home improvement store for heavy steel plumbing pipe. Slide the joint in the pipe, set on the floor jack pan and lift it into the control arm. Few hits on the control arm will seat it, put new snap ring on and install the zerk. Drop the jack and pull of the coupler. Takes maybe 5 minutes as opposed to fighting the press for an hour.
 






I have done this job about two dozen times now between my own and other people's trucks. I have found the ball joint press is more frustration than anything else. Usually it isnt wide enough to fit with both cups installed, requires you to pretty much take everything off the truck, and even then is terrible at actually removing and installing the ball joint. Heck I had one I rented bend out to the point of uselessness (cast iron, not hardened). The one thing you will use from the press kit is the cups, however they are too tall for the press and too short to work with anything else. It is substantially better to hammer out the old ball joint with a 3 pound hammer. Get a 2-1/8" ID x 4" to 6" long pipe fitting. $3 exhaust pipe works for a couple uses, or spend $8 at any home improvement store for heavy steel plumbing pipe. Slide the joint in the pipe, set on the floor jack pan and lift it into the control arm. Few hits on the control arm will seat it, put new snap ring on and install the zerk. Drop the jack and pull of the coupler. Takes maybe 5 minutes as opposed to fighting the press for an hour.

i totally agree. the bj press tool was a joke. i did make use of the cups though. a floor jack and a 3lb hammer made it a piece of cake to remove and re-install the lowers. i'd suggest you do the uppers while your at it.
 






I have done this job about two dozen times now between my own and other people's trucks. I have found the ball joint press is more frustration than anything else. Usually it isnt wide enough to fit with both cups installed, requires you to pretty much take everything off the truck, and even then is terrible at actually removing and installing the ball joint. Heck I had one I rented bend out to the point of uselessness (cast iron, not hardened). The one thing you will use from the press kit is the cups, however they are too tall for the press and too short to work with anything else. It is substantially better to hammer out the old ball joint with a 3 pound hammer. Get a 2-1/8" ID x 4" to 6" long pipe fitting. $3 exhaust pipe works for a couple uses, or spend $8 at any home improvement store for heavy steel plumbing pipe. Slide the joint in the pipe, set on the floor jack pan and lift it into the control arm. Few hits on the control arm will seat it, put new snap ring on and install the zerk. Drop the jack and pull of the coupler. Takes maybe 5 minutes as opposed to fighting the press for an hour.

That is great way of doing it that I never considered. I didn't have much difficulty using the C-clamp tool but both ways work.
 






I just did my ball joints too. It's not to hard.

I would recommend you get a buddy to help you out though, just in case something goes wrong.
 






I have done this job about two dozen times now between my own and other people's trucks. I have found the ball joint press is more frustration than anything else. Usually it isnt wide enough to fit with both cups installed, requires you to pretty much take everything off the truck, and even then is terrible at actually removing and installing the ball joint. Heck I had one I rented bend out to the point of uselessness (cast iron, not hardened). The one thing you will use from the press kit is the cups, however they are too tall for the press and too short to work with anything else. It is substantially better to hammer out the old ball joint with a 3 pound hammer. Get a 2-1/8" ID x 4" to 6" long pipe fitting. $3 exhaust pipe works for a couple uses, or spend $8 at any home improvement store for heavy steel plumbing pipe. Slide the joint in the pipe, set on the floor jack pan and lift it into the control arm. Few hits on the control arm will seat it, put new snap ring on and install the zerk. Drop the jack and pull of the coupler. Takes maybe 5 minutes as opposed to fighting the press for an hour.

Could you possibly take a pic of the items you mentioned if you have them on hand.
 






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