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Slow power windows???

JDwornik

Member
Joined
November 7, 2011
Messages
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City, State
La Salle,MI
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Ford Explorer
Hello everyone,

I just picked up a 94 Limited for a winter beater and have a question. I'm having an issure with the power windows. They seem to be very slow going up and down and when I press the switch I can seen the Volt gauge move a good amount until I let go.

What should I look for? They all work just very slow going up and down and sometimes they stop moving and I have to press the switch againg to move it more. Thanks in advance, Jason
 



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Could be a few reason as to why & 1 answer is it's normal on some. I had a rear window that was slow. New motor, new regulator, new switches, cleaned, greased...nothing made any difference. But the other windows were fine.
 






Any time I notice my windows moving slower than normal, I disassemble the motor and clean it out, check the bushings, and clean the actuator where it meets the brushes. A light sanding is all it takes to reveal new metal. I put fresh grease on all moving parts, including the ends of the inside of the motor where it sits inside what I'm assuming are bearings. I reassemble the motor, then install it and use it to help me spread gratuitous amounts of grease evenly on the window tracks.

Works every time and makes the window go up and down like it was brand new. I usually only have to do this once per window, but with the number of explorers me and my family have, I have gotten a lot of practice doing it.
 






Could be a few reason as to why & 1 answer is it's normal on some. I had a rear window that was slow. New motor, new regulator, new switches, cleaned, greased...nothing made any difference. But the other windows were fine.
I used to be a GM mechanic and started out in pre-delivery inspection and 15-A (leaks and squeaks). A slow window is not normal. It can be fixed. It is a matter of geometry. The window glass has a curve to it, from top to bottom. The channels are rubber and felt "fuzz" inside a metal box. The channels and the window opening need to have the same continual arc as the curvature of the window, both front and back. Bending of the channels to fit that arc, making sure the channels aren't twisted. Maybe shimming will be needed to the mounting at the bottom of the channel. Maybe the bottom portions of the channels are too close together and bind the glass. When the lower quadrant is correct, take a look at the upper quadrant. Watch the upward movement of the glass as it approaches the top. Note if the glass, when closing the gap toward the vertical channel, aims for the center of the groove in which it will rest. Also watch that it will do the same at the top of the door. If it doesn't, a dramatic action must be taken. Bending the door frame. That is something I can go over in more detail later, hopefully with some pictures to visualize with.

Check the glass approach to the top of the window opening. Is it closing the gap to hit all the way across the top just before the window seats? If not, then the roller guide channeling attached to the inner door skin needs to be repositioned, by dropping or raising the opposite end accordingly.

The aim of the regulator can also be a factor in causing the window to have a labored travel. With the glass out, the 2 top rollers need to aim for the neutral mark of where the bottom of the glass unit will be, when 4" from the top of the window opening. Be sure and liberally spray the run channels of the glass (including the top) above and below the window opening. Use spray silicone.
If this doesn't work, take out the glass, throw out the car and start with another car for the glass to go into...JUST KIDDING!! I feel like doing that sometimes.:D
 






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