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Snow mode - force 4WD?

Ehh it could work. The Hyundai Tucson has a button to lock in 4wd from awd. My sister has one. Never used it before but I would imagine it only works to a certain speed but nonetheless still an option.

I meant it more, "they could have engineered it that way, but didn't; there's no way for the driver to make that happen" absent some serious modifications. And even then, it would be a little shaky given our knowledge base of the PTU's reliability (or lack thereof.)

Ford's had that kind of system on prior vehicles, but they've phased it out for Intelligent AWD (save for true 4WD). I remember our family's first SUV in the early 2000's--had an "AUTO/ON" kind of switch in the dash. If the driveline were activated for whatever reason--you had a locked 50/50 split until FWD only was reactivated. Did the job.
 



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@Elfiero
When I ordered my '65 "K" car, High Performance Option, as yours was, if 271 HP, they were not factory-available with an automatic, strictly Top-Loader 4-speed.

What gives?? imp
I’m not sure. All I know is my car definitely had the 271hp motor, and darn! That car was quick. I went thru 3 tranny rebuilds while I owned it. I will say it didn’t stop very well, but none of the cars back then seemed to stop very well. Did yours have the “rally pak” gauges? I always wanted to add them to my car but could never find any. A buddy of mine had a ‘67 cougar- Dan Gourney(sp) edition. It had a 390 in it. Very kewl car.
 






I had an "D" code 289ci-4V, built in May 1964, Poppy Red convertible with Auto, cute car but had horrible brakes. The "D" code was only available until Sept '64. I sold it to a collector in Sweden, drove it on the ship to be delivered.
@ExPlat
Mine was ordered in August, '64 from Murphy Motors in Cicero, Illinois, took about 4 weeks to get it. Vintage Burgundy color, the code "K" signified the High Performance Option, the engine having solid valve lifters, better pistons, and of course came with the 9" rear instead of 8". Gears were 3.89. Tires were squirmy Firestone "Red Line". Soon, I put on F-60-15s, using wide rims specified for something like taxicabs. It's serial number was 5F07K284486. imp
 






I’m not sure. All I know is my car definitely had the 271hp motor, and darn! That car was quick. I went thru 3 tranny rebuilds while I owned it. I will say it didn’t stop very well, but none of the cars back then seemed to stop very well. Did yours have the “rally pak” gauges? I always wanted to add them to my car but could never find any. A buddy of mine had a ‘67 cougar- Dan Gourney(sp) edition. It had a 390 in it. Very kewl car.
@Elfiero
I did not order the Rally-Pak, standard steering 15:1 ratio, no power brakes. Black interior.

Those Cougars today are worth a bundle of dough! imp
 






What do all these latest posts from #23 on have to do with the thread title??

Peter
 












OP, if you're looking for all seasons, I would highly recommend Michelin latitude tour HPs. I have them on mine and they hold up fantastically in winter weather.
 






OP here, back after tracking down the thread he though he had subscribed to. Thanks to all the helpful comments in this thread about tires, and confirmation from other folks that old-school 4x4 worked alot better. I did switch to Blizzaks for winter driving and will be getting a second set of wheels and tires for the summer. The tires that came off were not even all-seasons, and were a lovely set of hockey pucks below 0 degrees. Proper winter tires have made navigating the last couple feet of snow here much more bearable. TPMS training back and forth between 2 sets of tires will be next thing to get used to.

1. What are you calling “cruising speeds”? If you were driving your Jeep 60 mph in 4wd you were not following the owners manual, were you? 2. If you drive your exploder the way the manual says, you won’t feel any slippage. The “4wd” system is working exactly the way it is designed to work. Perhaps it isn’t the vehicle for you? Maybe you should go back to a 90-something Jeep product? You don’t like all the “tech” anyways- right?
1) Moving at highway speeds in the winter in the north, where it snows, and gets cold. There is no upper bound for 4Hi speeds in the 2000 XJ owner's manual. You may be shocked to find out that people occasionally drive at highway speeds on highways in the snow in various 4x4 modes.
2) I was driving at 35mph and feeling slippage on nearly bare pavement with occasional ice patches. I'm sorry I somehow offended you.
 






1. What are you calling “cruising speeds”? If you were driving your Jeep 60 mph in 4wd you were not following the owners manual, were you? 2. If you drive your exploder the way the manual says, you won’t feel any slippage. The “4wd” system is working exactly the way it is designed to work. Perhaps it isn’t the vehicle for you? Maybe you should go back to a 90-something Jeep product? You don’t like all the “tech” anyways- right?

Pardon the expression, but that was a pretty asshatted reply.

You can make your point without being a phallus.
 






....... The tires that came off were not even all-seasons, and were a lovely set of hockey pucks below 0 degrees. Proper winter tires have made navigating the last couple feet of snow here much more bearable. TPMS training back and forth between 2 sets of tires will be next thing to get used to...................
So called All Season tires begin to lose their grip below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. This is the temperature where these tires begin to harden and lose traction.
I don't worry about the seasonal TPMS adjustment since my dealer does that as part of changing the wheels over. They also store them.

Peter
 






A competent driver will have no issues with the marginal loss of traction of the cold and an all season tire. It’s no different than running tires with a 600 treadwear rating vs a 450 treadwear.
 






A competent driver will have no issues with the marginal loss of traction of the cold and an all season tire. It’s no different than running tires with a 600 treadwear rating vs a 450 treadwear.

We've had a severe winter where I've been and I've not had issues with my A/S tires. In fact, when everyone else was getting stuck, I was able to just plough through.

Having said that, a set of studded Nokians for next winter wouldn't go amiss.
 






A competent driver will have no issues with the marginal loss of traction of the cold and an all season tire. It’s no different than running tires with a 600 treadwear rating vs a 450 treadwear.
A "marginal loss of traction" could be a big issue depending upon the circumstances. Many independent tests have shown that Winter tires offer increased traction and shorter stopping distances for overall safety when comparing them to All-Season tires. Even insurance companies now offer discounts on annual insurance premiums for using dedicated Winter tires during certain months of the year.


Peter
 






Or, it could be a waste of money. I never said winter tires weren’t better. For most people, IF they know how to drive, aren’t necessary. This is also assuming you have a fresh, QUALITY set of tires. I’ve got at least 100,000 miles of snow and winter driving and have never once had an accident. At least 90% of these miles were on all seasons or mud tires.

Tires that are 4 years old also have decreased traction and and increased stopping distance. Should these just be thrown out?
 






A "marginal loss of traction" could be a big issue depending upon the circumstances. Many independent tests have shown that Winter tires offer increased traction and shorter stopping distances for overall safety when comparing them to All-Season tires. Even insurance companies now offer discounts on annual insurance premiums for using dedicated Winter tires during certain months of the year.


Peter


Got any videos showing performance differences on cold, dry pavement?
I've searched before and every "winter/snow tire" test has always been on snow or ice.
 






Got any videos showing performance differences on cold, dry pavement?
I've searched before and every "winter/snow tire" test has always been on snow or ice.
No, but not for lack of trying, But since a Winter tire's rubber is softer or 'stickier' I would expect that it would have a better grip on cold pavement as well. As the video explains, the difference is in the rubber.


Peter
 






I would certainly think if the difference was substantial there’d be videos touting such a safety improvement.
 






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