SOHC Engine Removal/Rebuild/Install - Done!

[donalds]

I know I'm kinda annoying to y'all

But these may be helpful in your situation
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-34435-2-Inch-Pliers-Diameter/dp/B00YQ7S52S/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-6PF89ax4gIVip-fCh1SGggcEAAYASAAEgIiTfD_BwE&hvadid=291289357099&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9009706&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8544183985092579291&hvtargid=aud-648454669636:kwd-301936542645&hydadcr=24657_10400627&keywords=rubber+hose+pliers&qid=1558615444&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I have them and they are a godsend

 

[CDW6212R]

I have something like those, isn't that a plug boot pulling tool?

 

[donalds]

I have something like those, isn't that a plug boot pulling tool?

You can get them in different sizes
They are for stubborn hoses that are hard to get to

 

[koda2000]

Another record hot day today, but at least the humidity hasn't reached GA summer levels yet. After dinner I took both valve covers loose, removed all the heater hose related parts and hoses, managed to remove the lower P/S hose from the cooler by spinning the hose clamp around with my long needle nose pliers to where I could squeeze it. This allowed my to remove the cooler from the rack and hang it out of my way. With the A/C compressor out of my way I believe I can get the engine out over the large A/C hose that goes to the drier. We'll see.

Tomorrow my daughter has promised to help me with removing the hood and to spin the crankshaft with a ratchet while I mark and remove the torque converter bolts with my impact. With the hood off I'll see how much access there is to the O2 connectors and top transmission bolts. The only thing I'm not sure about is how some of the major wire harnesses come loose. It looks like some may come with the engine and some may stay with the truck. Other than the fuel injector electrical connectors and the O2 sensors everything electrical is numbered and disconnected as well as all of the peripheral engine parts and hoses. Once I break the head bolts loose and remove the remaining trans bolts the engine is about read to pull. Then the real fun (the autopsy) can begin.

I need to find a source for all the TTY bolts I'll need to replace. The OE timing chain kit does not include any bolts or the rear jack shaft cover/seal. Perhaps there's a more complete set?

Head Bolts - Felpro through Summit or RA
Harmonic balancer bolt - Ford?
Cam gear and jackshaft bolts - Ford?
Not sure about the flywheel bolts (are they TTY?)
Cam shaft bolts to head? I don't think they're TTY
Am I forgetting anything?

I got my metric tubing crowsfoot set in today's mail so I can remove the leaky P/S pressure hose from the rack, though the leak might be being caused by the Tellon tape the PO used at the pump end instead of an O-ring or Teflon seal it's supposed to have had. Hard to tell. I've never had to add fluid to the reservoir in 4 years so it's not a bad leak. I'll probably just replace the hose to err on the safe side.

I found a cam follower removal tool on eBay for $35 that has 5-star reviews, and which is less than half the price if the OTC tool and looks identical.

Making progress little by little.

 

[donalds]

Bolts - Felpro through Summit or RA
Harmonic balancer bolt - Ford?
Cam gear and jackshaft bolts - Ford?
Not sure about the flywheel bolts (are they TTY?)
Cam shaft bolts to head? I don't think they're TTY
Am I forgetting anything?

Solved - SOHC V6 Torque Specifications

This gives all the torque specs and the bolts that are tty

 

[koda2000]

Thanks @donalds (and @2000StreetRod) for all the useful information. I've bookmarked the thread for my future use.

 

[koda2000]

Today's Update:
Record breaking temps again today. It took all day, but I finally got my daughter to help me. I wanted her to spin the crankshaft while I located and removed the 4 torque converter nuts, but I managed to do that by myself. I marked one stud and the flex plate with white paint so I can make sure it goes back together the way it came apart (in case they're balanced as a unit). I removed the spark plugs again to make spinning the engine easier, turned the 19 mm harmonic balancer bolt clockwise until I could get at all four 15 mm torque converter nuts and whizzed them off with my impact wrench. All 4 nuts are now removed, bagged & tagged for reassembly, though I don't know how I'm going to torque them down again without the engine spinning. Ford no doubt has an expensive special tool for this purpose. Suggestions welcomed. I wonder if I can use the harmonic balancer holding tool from the TC tool set?

Next I marked the location of the hood hinges on the bottom side of the hood, popped off the hood support struts while supporting the hood with a metal rod in its center temporarily, removed 2 of the 4 hood bolts and loosened the other 2, placing folded towels at the hood corners to prevent having the hood corners jam into the cowl. Then I had my daughter hold a corner while I removed the remaining 2 bolts. The hood is now off, but we placed it back on again (w/out the bolts) until I get back to working on the truck again tomorrow. I guess I've put it off as long as I can, it's time to start breaking loose the head bolts. I'm dreading the effort that will be required.

I figured out that the TC cam timing tool set does not com with the tool to hold the rear jack shaft sprocket. You would think it should, but no such luck. Great, another special tool to buy.

 

[koda2000]

Research Update:
I watched FordTechmakuloco's YouTube video again today (the 3rd one of 4 I believe) where he installs the new TC kit and times everything. I wanted to see how he held the crankshaft so that he could torque the jack shaft sprocket bolts. He said he uses a 29 mm 1/2" socket on a 1/2 breaker bar to hold the crank. I assume this is a 12 pt socket that manages to lock onto the wood-drif key on the CS (not sure). I found out there is a special OTC tool for this purpose. It fits over the nose of the CS and locks onto the wood-drif key using an internal slot. It also has a 1/2" square hole into which you can install a breaker bar. The only issue is that this OTC tool is it's $67, so I'd rather buy a regular 29 mm socket, which I can buy for around $6 on eBay.

I also watched another 4.0L SOHC TC Youtube video by a shade-tree mechanic (cruzroycruzroy64) where he had, or made, a tool that he somehow used to hold the jack shaft rear sprocket. This guy's procedures and homemade tools (plus than the OTC 6488 tool) looked like they'll probably get the job done, but I think I trust FordTechmakeuloco procedures more. I don't want to do this job twice because I've overlooked something. Still, I did learn a trick or two from cruzroycruzroy64.

 

[david4451]

Check out Cloyes youtube video, it's shortish and details timing process. There's no 29 mm socket needed, maybe you're meaning cam shaft bolt which is 19 mm.

Lifting engine out, on front of head, passenger side there is 12 mm threaded hole in head. On rear of head drivers side there is also a 12 mm threaded hole. I used these to lift engine in & out, using shortish 12 mm bolt (2 inch long ). Seems some say use exhaust manifold bolt holes but these seem weak!

INSTALLING NEW JACKSHAFT TTY BOLTS
The tty bolts on jackshaft, for rear bolt lock up front large jackshaft sprocket, by installing OLD tty bolt on front and hold with torx socket. For front jackshaft bolt, remove OLD tty bolt install new bolt ( use impact carefully to tighten a bit). Hold front primary chain large sprocket and torque to spec.
It's early for this, but I didn't want to use timing chains to resist torquing of tty jackshaft bolts.

 

[koda2000]

Check out Cloyes youtube video, it's shortish and details timing process. There's no 29 mm socket needed, maybe you're meaning cam shaft bolt which is 19 mm.

Lifting engine out, on front of head, passenger side there is 12 mm threaded hole in head. On rear of head drivers side there is also a 12 mm threaded hole. I used these to lift engine in & out, using shortish 12 mm bolt (2 inch long ). Seems some say use exhaust manifold bolt holes but these seem weak!

INSTALLING NEW JACKSHAFT TTY BOLTS
The tty bolts on jackshaft, for rear bolt lock up front large jackshaft sprocket, by installing OLD tty bolt on front and hold with torx socket. For front jackshaft bolt, remove OLD tty bolt install new bolt ( use impact carefully to tighten a bit). Hold front primary chain large sprocket and torque to spec.
It's early for this, but I didn't want to use timing chains to resist torquing of tty jackshaft bolts.

In FordTech's video he still has everything loose and wants to torque the jackshaft bolts first. that's why he wants to hold the crankshaft. Still, I suppose there's move than one way to skin a cat, as the saying goes.
cruzroy made a tool to hold the front jackshaft by it's sprocket holes. I actually prefer not to hold the CS as I'd rather not stress the new JS or CS chain's.

I know about using the bolt holes in the heads to lift. As far as being strong enough, those bolts will be plenty strong enough. It's fairly common practice to lift cast iron small block Chevy V8 engines using a lift plate bolted to the 4 carb studs on an aluminum intake. To me there's no way that seems strong enough, but apparently it is.

I know it's early to be concerned about this stuff, but I like to think ahead.

 

[david4451]

Yes I torqued jackshaft bolts first, as the cam bolts are only holding cam shaft sprockets in free spin state. What you must make sure of is that crankshaft is at TDC for number one cylinder ie key way is straight up. For crankshaft bolt I imobilised the flex plate.

 

[donalds]

For crankshaft bolt I imobilised the flex plate.

In the starter opening with a screwdriver

I think the lift point bolts on the head are m10 /1.50 I just bought new ones cheep the exhaust studs are the same size
Use a washer on them bolts so the chains don't slip off

 

[donalds]

Another record hot day today, but at least the humidity hasn't reached GA summer levels yet. After dinner I took both valve covers loose, removed all the heater hose related parts and hoses, managed to remove the lower P/S hose from the cooler by spinning the hose clamp around with my long needle nose pliers to where I could squeeze it. This allowed my to remove the cooler from the rack and hang it out of my way. With the A/C compressor out of my way I believe I can get the engine out over the large A/C hose that goes to the drier. We'll see.

Tomorrow my daughter has promised to help me with removing the hood and to spin the crankshaft with a ratchet while I mark and remove the torque converter bolts with my impact. With the hood off I'll see how much access there is to the O2 connectors and top transmission bolts. The only thing I'm not sure about is how some of the major wire harnesses come loose. It looks like some may come with the engine and some may stay with the truck. Other than the fuel injector electrical connectors and the O2 sensors everything electrical is numbered and disconnected as well as all of the peripheral engine parts and hoses. Once I break the head bolts loose and remove the remaining trans bolts the engine is about read to pull. Then the real fun (the autopsy) can begin.

I need to find a source for all the TTY bolts I'll need to replace. The OE timing chain kit does not include any bolts or the rear jack shaft cover/seal. Perhaps there's a more complete set?

Head Bolts - Felpro through Summit or RA
Harmonic balancer bolt - Ford?
Cam gear and jackshaft bolts - Ford?
Not sure about the flywheel bolts (are they TTY?)
Cam shaft bolts to head? I don't think they're TTY
Am I forgetting anything?

I got my metric tubing crowsfoot set in today's mail so I can remove the leaky P/S pressure hose from the rack, though the leak might be being caused by the Tellon tape the PO used at the pump end instead of an O-ring or Teflon seal it's supposed to have had. Hard to tell. I've never had to add fluid to the reservoir in 4 years so it's not a bad leak. I'll probably just replace the hose to err on the safe side.

I found a cam follower removal tool on eBay for $35 that has 5-star reviews, and which is less than half the price if the OTC tool and looks identical.

Making progress little by little.

Did your kit come with the tensioner s gaskets

 

[david4451]

Here's a photo of 12 mm bolt hole location.

 

[koda2000]

Did your kit come with the tensioner s gaskets

I haven't purchased the TC kit yet, but the kit I'm looking includes the chains, cassettes, guides, small front cassette lower bolt, tensioners (kit pic below). I'd like to find a more complete kit. I've emailed Tasca Ford Parts with a request to see if there's one available, otherwise I'll need to source the other stuff I'll need separately.

Other Stuff Needed:
New TTY bolts (heads, cams and jack shaft, any others needed?)
Complete upper engine gasket set
Complete lower engine gasket set
Jack shaft plug/seal
Rear cassette small lower bolt O-ring
Maybe a new oil pump
Maybe a new water pump

Any thing else I might need? Are the flexplate bolts TTY? What about the larger upper oil pan/girdle bolts? I believe the head-end 2 bolts I plan to use for the lift points are M12's. I know they're larger than M10's.

On my next pass through the installation instructions I plan to take notes on specific bolt sizes and torque ratings because I understand some torque ratings may vary by year. I currently have 3 torque rating sources to compare.

Tools I've bought (or will be buying):
OTC 6488 TC set
Valve spring compressor tool
Long 27mm wrench for EGR pipe to header
T55 x 1/2" socket
Short 1/2" extention
E-socket set
Metric tubing crows foot set
New digital torque wrench

 

[donalds]

Any thing else I might need? Are the flexplate bolts TTY? What about the larger upper oil pan/girdle bolts?

Not sure about the upper pan bolts we just reused them following ford tek guy in the video s
The crank flywheel bolts I used with a little lock tight torque to spec I believe he used the same ones in the vid not sure I also replaced the flywheel...flex place ..... cheep at least look really good for cracking

 

[CDW6212R]

The TTY bolts are made for critical instances, like the head bolts and jack shaft bolts. Rod bolts were also an early use for TTY bolts, but OEM has made them common knowledge over the last 25 years.

The first engine I built was in 1980, a 351C-4V, and the only bolts replaced were the rod bolts(SRP, the best then with ARP just behind).

 

[koda2000]

In this week's episode... TTY bolt sourcing and part numbers and breaking loose the head bolts.

4.0L SOHC TTY Bolts (Ford OE unless otherwise specified):
Front jack shaft bolt
PN Ford 2L2Z-6279-AA $11.29

Rear jack shaft bolt
PN W703167-S430 $4.01

Crankshaft dampener bolt
PN E7RY-6A340-B $5.65

Left Camshaft Sprocket Bolt
PN F77Z-6279-CB $45.35 (ouch! more research required)

Right Camshaft Sprocket Bolt
PN F77Z-6279-AD $50.98 (double ouch!)

Felpro 18 pc head bolt set (includes new camshaft cap bolts)
PN ES 72856 (2 sets required) $22.99 @ Advance Auto

Rear jack shaft plug/seal
PN Rear - Ford (F77Z-6026-AB) $12.70
(and maybe new upper & lower rear cassette bolts)

In the last episode I removed the hood, but placed it back on in case it rained (it didn't). My plan was to remove it and put it aside the next day so that I could begin breaking loose the head bolts. I can't do this by myself and, wouldn't you know, my daughter managed to hurt her shoulder at work. Today was the first day she was able to help me get the hood back off. I also unplugged all the fuel injectors and got their harnesses out of my way. I then decided to put the front tires back on so that I could take the front of the truck off the safety stands to lower the front end to have better access/leverage to the head bolts.

I was dreading breaking the head bolts loose after watching videos of people struggling with them. In reality the job really wasn't too bad, that's not to say it was easy, but once a good angle of attack was achieved using my new $13 1/2" T55 socket, 24" breaker bar with a short extension and an old 36" motorcycle fork tube cheater bar I as able to get all the bolts (except the small lower e-socket bolt on the rear of the right head) loosened without too much effort. I don't think removing the one small bolt will be a problem once the engine is out and the cam is removed. I also removed the front and rear chain tensioners.

It's getting hot outside again so I've quit for now. I plan to go after the trans bolts this evening. Then I should be just about ready to yank the engine out. I can't wait to tear it apart and see what I find.

Discovery:
4 years ago, when I removed the right valve cover to replace the VC gaskets, the rear TC cassette was intact. Since then I've dropped the lower oil pan several times looking for signs of debris. The first time I found a lot of sludge and nothing else. The second time I found a small piece of jack shaft tensioner spring. As I was working on the right head bolts today I didn't see any sign of the rear cassette. It must have exploded at some point, but other than a little TC noise at cold startup it's only ever made the slightest of chain noise (nothing like the loud diesel engine sound our old '01 SOHC Explorer made before it died). The remnants of that cassette must be all sitting on top of the upper oil pan/girdle, so I guess I'll be removing that too. I'd hoped to be able to skip this step, but this will give me a good opportunity to replace the oil pump in addition to picking out all the trash.

 

[CDW6212R]

The upper pan/girdle wasn't bad to remove, once the differential is out. I replaced my oil pump as a precaution when I got my truck, at 77,450 miles. I have that old pump in the bag and box someplace, I should let that go to save space when I see it again.

 

[koda2000]

The upper pan/girdle wasn't bad to remove, once the differential is out. I replaced my oil pump as a precaution when I got my truck, at 77,450 miles. I have that old pump in the bag and box someplace, I should let that go to save space when I see it again.

"once the differential is out" ??? What does this mean? Did you mean to say "engine"?

I watched a video where a guy removed his upper pan/girdle and he found metal sleeves in the larger bolt holes. He couldn't figure out their purpose, but he said they seemed to screw into the girdle and rested on the crankshaft main cap bolts. I was thinking perhaps they protect/support the girdle somehow. Any thoughts? Do these sleeves have a torque spec?

The girdle looked easy enough to remove (other than having a million small bolts). Installation is the reverse of removal, except that you have to make sure the girdle is aligned properly to the rear of the engine block.