How to: SOHC PCV Valve Mod thru 2000

[Beerking27]

Just wanted to add my experience when changing the PVC on 2000 Explorer, the metal one used in this post (purolator i think) felt like it was gonna break the plastic if it was forced into the T connector so ended up grinding the top down a little bit so it would fit easier. Must have grinded a little too much because it threw CEL for running lean about 50 miles later but with no ill effect or anything noticeable. I ended up replacing it with the motorcraft part, fit no problem, which I highly recommend getting in the first place, picked it up from napa.

 

[chefduane]

I just finished changing mine and kinda' had a similar experience. I had all intentions of doing the mod but all the hoses and the valve slipped off their nipples (heh) fairly easily. I typically engine wash my car once a year and I live in Texas no so grime/rust/schmutz issues. I used a metal valve from AutoZone and it was a tight fit getting on the "T", but I was able to press it on using my bench vise. Had to be very gentle as I was concerned about splitting the "T" as I pressed it on. While at AutoZ I also purchased about 3' of 3/8" ID heater hose that I used to replace the existing hoses. I did reroute the longer one per the mod suggestion. Everything went back on fairly easily. I would caution about potentially disconnecting other hoses when working in such a tight space. I accidentally disconned the wiper washer hose and I think what was the hose to the EGR vacuum regulator that sits directly behind the IAC valve. Once I got everything hooked back up it was fine. I'm sure mine was the original as it was pretty gummed up and was the factor gray Motorcraft valve. I think she'll breathe a little easier now!

 

[Jlledford]

Bit of a stupid question, does anyone know where to get that T fitting? I've tried all my local autoparts stores and am looking online.

 

[VR4]

Just get the entire hose assy from a dealer. About 50 bucks with a new valve

 

[hoonigandad]

I replaced my pcv recently and the upper and lower intake gaskets. After checking everything out after I noticed that the pcv hose that connects to the upper intake manifold by the coil pack flattens when running. Is this normal? Or is something else wrong choking the engine?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Did you test the PCV valve by blowing thru it before installation? The airflow is from the crankcase breather thru the PCV into the intake manifold. A collapsing hose indicates restricted airflow. How many miles are on the odometer? The breather could be full of gunk preventing airflow. Below are photos of my old breather after cutting it apart.

 

[hoonigandad]

No the valve is brand new. I had the problem before I replaced it. I've been getting the lean bank code for months so I replaced the intake gaskets and pcv valve. And cleaned the IAC and maf. Starts better but still runs weird.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I always blow into a new PCV valve from each end to make sure it works before installation. If you have a vacuum pump and gauge then the easiest thing to try is to disconnect one of the hoses at the upper intake manifold that comes from the PCV valve. Then connect the vacuum pump to the hose open end and see if you can pump fast enough to collapse the hose. If the hose collapses note the vacuum reading.

 

[hoonigandad]

Ok thanks. I'll probably look it over again next weekend. Right now I'm pouring over all the threads about the egr and lean bank codes

 

[hoonigandad]

i took off the upper intake and retorqued the lower intake and replaced the egr pipe o-ring. its better but still vibrates above 30mph ( under load, not when coasting) no codes are up yet. The pcv valve rattles when shook and the drivers side vacuum line to it still collapses nearly shut at idle.

 

[2000StreetRod]

The T fitting should allow the vacuum in the passenger side hose to equal that in the driver side hose. I suspect that the driver side hose has been replaced in the past with an inferior product.

 

[jfraas805]

The T fitting should allow the vacuum in the passenger side hose to equal that in the driver side hose. I suspect that the driver side hose has been replaced in the past with an inferior product.

Does that T fitting have a part number on its own or you i need to buy a new assembly with the hoses? I cracked the fitting trying to fit the new valve in.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I get so tired of plastic parts that become brittle from heat exposure. I suspect that Ford only sells the entire assembly at an exorbitant cost. If you can't find an equivalent in an auto parts store a possible alternative is to repair the T using fiberglass and epoxy resin. Make sure the epoxy is completely dry before installing the PCV valve.

 

[DR98FL]

I used Dorman part #47343 vacumn tee 3/8" x 3/8" x 3/8". Advanced auto parts $4.00.
Perfect replacement for the Ford vacumn tee.


DR98

 

[FordJimbo]

This is a fantastic write up and should be a sticky. But some of the photos have been removed.

The prior owner of my Explorer didn't do it right and just had the shorter hose to the PCV but no "T" and the original housings and wirings were not there.

I struggled a bit with the layout and location, and since some of the pictures had been removed or don't show up. But I've reviewed post #1 many times and it's there. This isn't in my Chiltons and nowhere else online that I could find.

To anyone having similar difficulty, there's two corresponding / mirror image male "nipples" on top of the manifold on the black intake on top of the motor; one is about mid-line of the back of the motor, and the other is on the drivers side back of the motor.

Much like the OP's very excellent instructions, I used a plastic "T" and three pieces of hosing. One goes down and contains the PCV valve, and one goes to each of these "nipples."

My motor would not run yesterday, but after replacing this it purrrs and idles just fine and drives fantastic.

Now I have to figure out how to turn of the check engine light...