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SOHC question

So i need to replace the timing chain guides and the timing chain tensioner so they have smaller holes to hold more oil? why does the motor need to come out? That you for the pictures, i understand more now!
 



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So i need to replace the timing chain guides and the timing chain tensioner so they have smaller holes to hold more oil? why does the motor need to come out? That you for the pictures, i understand more now!

Yes to the replacement question. If you are only replacing the hydraulic tensioners you DO NOT need to remove the engine. If you are ONLY replacing the primary timing chain AND/OR the driver side camshaft chain and guide you DO NOT need to remove the engine.

You only need to remove the engine if you are changing the passenger side camshaft timing chain and guide (aka timing cassette). This is because the bolt that holds the jackshaft, at the rear of the block, is located behind a rubberized freeze plug-type cover. That cover is located on the engine block, behind the area covered by the transmission bell housing. (I will find the photo I have and send it to you via PM). The torx fitting that locates and holds the bottom of the rear cassette is also located in the area covered by the bell housing, more specifically, right under the bell housing where it bolts to the engine block.

So the short of it is this; is it worth the time and effort to pull the engine or do you chance that the rear cassette will not grenade on you right after you do the front chains? Keep in mind that the failure could be catastrophic in that the chain can separate and destroy anything and everything it hits.

I personally like having no car payments, and the body of my Ex is still in pretty good shape, so to me, yes it has pretty much been worth doing the work. Would I invest $2600.00 to have it done by a certified Ford Mechanic? Nope, I only paid $2450 for it in the first place. I think I have gotten my money's worth of use, and if I get another 20, 30, 40K miles out of it before it starts ticking again, cool. I can live with that.

Mr. H.
 






Ok thank you.. Now i understand more cleraly. I would LOVE that PM. My only concern is, how long will this take. My family only has 2 cars, (both x's) with 3 drivers, so, i cant be out of a car for much more than 1-2 days.if i drop the tranny, will i be able to get to that bolt without removing the motor, or is that harder than removing the motor?
 






I took my Explorer into the Ford dealership yesterday and had the shop forman come for a ride with me. He heard the main sound I was talking about, and said it had nothing to do with timing chains or tensioners or anything of the sort, just that it was hesitating to downshift, which was normal. I believd he said the noise I heard had something to fo with air intake? He also drove it for about 5-10 miles (and up a small mountain) and deemed that it was in excellent shape and that nothing needed to be done at this time. Dodged a bullet for now I guess.
 






I dont believe that for one second. My truck has never made that noise before. even after i put a new intake on it. Yes my filter needs to be cleaned, but it wouldnt rattle. When ever i get the chance i am going to take it there to see what they say, and then get a second opinion. I would do the same if i were you.
 






THAT noise is not really a rattle, its more like a growling noise.
 






Oh, well, since we were talking about the rattle with the timing chain stuff, thats what i thought you were talking about!
 






i went to check 3 explorers this afternoon for a friend and all three had the SOHC engine and all of them had the rattle noise.1 was at 66000 miles and the other 2 at 110000+:confused:

ford told us that thats just the SOHC motor noise, but i don't buy it.

the one with the 66000 miles was rattling only at idle so i'm not sure if something is wrong with them.
 






When were you hearing the noise on the other two???
 






I guess I'm luck cuss I've never had any noises come from my engine.

I did have a OHV at one time and that thing made all sorts of noises!
 






the other 2 have the diesel sound and is getting really bad at 2500-3000rpm.

the 1 you can hear chain moving, but only at idle. then is getting really smooth.
 






So the dealer would be the most expensive to get this work done. I don't trust many shops i only take my explorer to midas for oil changes and thats it. But when it comes time to do all these chains i would want it done right, i have some money set aside.

Wouldn't an engine rebuild pretty much cost the same amount? 2600 for the chains and little plastic clips does seem expensive, might as well do a few other things if they are pulling the engine out.
 






i would suggest to drive it till it quits and then get a used low miles engine from a junk yard ($500-600) + ($500 installation) and done with it.
 






Junk yeard around here dont have anything newer than 96! So i cant really do that! And i dont want the OHV. I have a very trusted mechanic i will take it to and have him check it with in a few weeks and well see!
 






Bump
 






mines been doing this for about 2-3 months now....its gradually gotten worse to the point where its annoying to walk up to it while its running....runs and drives fine...does it alot at idle and at 1st when i start to drive it....once its warmed up it sometime doesnt make the noise at all..thought it may of been the belt tensioner they replaced as it didnt start until then but we pulled the belt and the sound was still there but not as loud...gets worse when ya put it in gear....def internal...more than likely the chains,cartridges etc right?

oh yea...i have just about 90k on it with 2k remaining on the warranty i got when i bought the truck....but the warranty comp sucks and they dont like to pay for shheeeeeit
 






That sounds as promising as will happen anymore. Go to a dealership and ask for as much documentation as you can get about the recall issues. The recalls are over but you may be able to use that history to enforce your extended warantee. Search through the internet also for documentation, take the most important information with you to your warantee company. Good luck,
 






People, What would you expect to pay for a full set of timing chains for the sohc over there as out here wer'e talking 700.00 plus just for the parts . As yet I hav'nt noticed any thing odd with my girl but that's not to say ther's no trouble brewing I've done 130k would be about 80-85k miles in your speak .As I try to practice preventive maintence what would be a good time to change over ? and where over there could we get the parts cheaply to Australia ?Cheers
 






Hello all,

I am new to the site and am looking for some help here. I have a 97 XL with the "E" vin engine. I have tried every place I know of to get the replacement timing chain kit for the primary. No one can help me. I don't want to get it from Ford as they want more than anyone else would. Is there any after market places that I could try?? I'm in Southern Ontario. But am willing to get from the states if the prices are good enough.

Thanks
 



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Friends, the timing chain cassettes were just over $60 each for me from Ford. The front tensioner kit(recall with check valve, gaskets) was about $40, and the rear tensioner was about $25. I didn't pull my engine or transmission, so I returned the rear cassette for a refund.

I also replaced my jackshaft chain, its tensioner, plus my balance shaft tensioner. The costs were minimal for those and easy labor with the whole front end apart. I skipped the jackshaft gears because of their price(about $70), and they are steel.

What exactly does your local Ford dealership want for the cassettes, which includes one chain, one gear, plus the special guide?

BTW, if anyone has this work done, be sure that they know what they are doing. I'm a competant mechanic, but I do make mistakes, and did with this work. Note in the picture the crank gear, that is how I installed the parts to begin with. The dots seen on the crank gear signify the backside of the gear. The front side of the gear(now I know) has a concave area which mates to the balancer. It bolts up either way, but the balancer pulley grooves would be outboard about 1/8". It's a lot of work to have to go back in to do again. My local dealership was no help in three trips there to brainstorm with mechanics. On my fourth trip there was a mechanic listening who had done the same thing on a different engine, voila. Regards,
 

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