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Solved Solved my transmission jerking / shaking.

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
Jseabolt -

Did you have it stroked or it's just a typo : 4.7 Mustang

Thanks (this is a serious question, not a ballbuster)

No, original engine. I thought it had a 4.7 liter engine. I could be wrong.

I was thinking when Ford replaced the small block V8 with the modular V8 it started out at 4.6 liters, then over the years the displacement increased so by 2008 the engine was up to 4.7 liters. The 2013 GTs are now up to 5.0 liters. Correct?
 



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Ford has had 4.6 since 1991 in various versions (2,3,4, and even 5 valve prototype).
They came back to 5.0 lately (completely different from the old 302).

They never had 4.7 (Toyota does).

Thanks
 






I am going to revive this thread.......

I searched because my wife's Explorer does the shudder thing under mild load around 45-50 mph as well. I kept thinking it was truly a transmission issue I am chasing, right?
Plus a few other facts: It keeps kicking out code P 0430 (catalyst system below threshold) meaning it not running 100% and after having the ECU software updated at the dealer (in hopes of boosting trans pressures to overcome the shudder) they informed me I have a "secondary ignition breakdown under load". I am hoping that with 120,000 miles this truck just needs coils. We'll see. I did do plugs about 18k miles ago (was easy using the back-out and soak method).
Keeping my fingers crossed.......

EDITED UPDATE (4/5/2015)....I changed all 8 coil packs ($165 from Rockauto) and it solved the "shudder" that I felt. It certainly FELT like a transmission shudder- but was actually the ignition breakdown under load that the dealer detected. It now runs perfect- sans the P0430 code that still pops up during in-town driving (not after 700 mile trip at 75mph!)
 






I have a 4.6 Mountaineer that I was about to do the dreaded plug change on at 96K miles. I just noticed the jerky symptoms you have on a recent hiway trip, and was afraid I was experiencing a tyranny problem. No codes have ever shone up. When I changed the plugs out a few days later (after breaking 4 out of 8 off inside the heads--thank God for Lisle) I found one of the plugs that broke off was different from the others; the ceramic insulator had turned into powder, and the electrode was rusty, and of course broken. After putting all new plugs in, along with the original coils, the problem has completely gone away.

Based on what I am finding in these threads, I believe the ECU does not detect this kind of problem as a misfire, since the coil is producing a spark, at the right time. If there was no spark, or if the coil primary /secondary was shorted, then I believe the ECU would have picked it up as a misfire. It's very interesting how similar these symptoms are to those of a failing TC, and I suspect many owners have been victims of unnecessary repairs, at a much higher cost.
 






I am having the same issue. At low speed right after start-up and once I hit about 56-59MPH, it kicks in for a bit. My 07 Exp has 201,000 miles, bought at 199,x.. (cheap), not knowing what has been done. I will give this a try as well; new coils and plugs (provided the current ones like like they need replacing).

No codes either
 






Has anyone seen an increase in gas mileage since the repair?
 






If your problems were cylinder misfires then you should see a slight improvement since the engine will be combusting all the fuel in the cylinders properly and not wasting mechanical energy.
 






Parts on order should be here on 6/3/15. I went with the Supercoil Accel 140032-8(yellow ones) and Autolite HT1. Some of the reviews I was reading on other sites were that people did see some MPG improvements as Flag Gibby notes. They also noted improved performance (some engine power restored). Once I get them in, I will monitor any improvements and report back as well.
 






May not want to use the part number that I listed as I received 4V coils rather than 3V coils. Discovered that after I changed the plugs out. Plugs were no issue to remove as I believe they were already done at some point.

I used my old coils and have not had the jerking issue reoccur (added dielectric grease as well). Anyone else only replace their plugs to have the problem solved? I prefer to save the $200 and not replace the coils if only plugs were needed. 2 of the plugs were in pretty rough shape. If the issue does resurface, I will just buy the right coils.
 






Is there a bug causing the words "spark plugs" to change to cdino fluid? If so, it needs to be fixed.
 






I have this issue, sort of. 99 sport 2wd, 4.0 pushrod. Intermittent. Sometimes it's great, sometimes you think the engine is going to part company with the mounts. Best description is a death rattle, like a loose front end on my 1950 F-1. Fuel filter early this year, 6600 Mac's injector cleaner (every time), Autolites, Belden wires, single 6 port coil pack, air filter, cleaned MAF, had a mouse eaten wire to #4 injector, unable any more to do that myself, had it done, no change, shop changed the injector (their scope showed an occasional #4 misfire), no change. I did EGR test, normal. NO CODES except the P0401 for the road test with EGR unplugged to see if it was dumping too fast...no change. Did NOT light CEL. Transmission shop drove it with me, said not trans as tach did not even flutter when this happened....he said trains issue would have caused tach to flutter or move radically. DeOxIt5 cleaned engine gang plug, PCM gang plug, performed wiggle test on all wire bundles and plugs while running, no change. Fuel pressure at 60PSI, loaded st 2200 RPM, still 60PSI. Serviced trans....no change. Can start at 25, usually goes away at 40, but shop said still there at freeway speeds. Plugs on LH bank look normal. No oil, no burning, no pearly white. Thought PCM, but all the folks I know who do this or did say 99, no. Never the PCM. Plug voltage about 10K at each end, cylinder balance normal. Haven't done compression test yet (have to wait for pain levels to go down). Shop threw their hands up (they said exactly that), 35 years of wrenching and I am at a loss. Has to be simple. Thanks.
 






Hi Curmudgeon -
Try posting it in the 2nd generation forum.
I dont think the old 4.0 OHV used coils so it's got to be something different.

Post it or search here and maybe someone had similar issue.:
 






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