Some Questions about a Tune-Up!

[GRNMACHINE]

$240 for 8 spark plugs.... Time for a new proctologist, I meant mechanic

 

[granadojl]

hahaha. Good one.. You made a funny

 

[willied]

It's not my regular mechanic anyway and I'm not positive that was what he said the price for the plugs was. The guy I talked to about it there was really nice and informative, though.

 

[cwescapexlt4x4]

Your mechanic (and Nordford) are giving you good advice here. Spark plug replacement on 06 and early 07 V-8 Explorer engines can be a real nightmare.
Do some research on this. Lots of info out there.

I completely agree... I would have done my own until i read about the 2006 - mid 2007 3 valve 4.6 v8 issues with letting sparkplugs loose (or not loose for that matter) and was a decision to my Ford Truck mechanic who does side work at slightly over what the plugs alone would have run!

 

[07XLT4x2v8]

I'm working on my early 07 v8 Explorer right now. Bought the repair tool just in case. So far 2 down in only 3 hours. I can't say enough good things about this design by Ford. At this rate I might be done next week! It really takes a lot of patience and working the plugs back and forth. And a leap of faith to break the plugs the first time - just knowing that it takes all the force you have when it says to not go over 30 ft. lbs. with your torque wrench.

On the other hand I still love my Explorer.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Mark: I hear you on this, I'm scared sh!!less about changing my plugs, but will have to take the plunge sooner or later.
Not sure what method you may be using, but I think that granadojl had great success with the WD-40. It must have soften the carbon and lubricated the threads at the same time. Makes me think that I will initally use the ford carb cleaner, then WD-40 or PB Blaster to lube the plug threads.
Keep us up to date and please post what method you used and what you would or wouldn't do the next time.
Thanks again for your post and best of luck.

 

[willied]

I phoned the local Ford dealer here and I told the lady I'm going to need my spark plugs changed, she asks how many miles I have, I say ~72,000, she says you don't need to do it until 100,000 miles, I say not with this car, the longer you wait the worse it gets thanks to Ford's thoughtful engineering, she says that only the 5.4L engines have the problems, I tell her the 4.6L has the problem, too, she says it's only the 5.4L engines that are effected again, and I tell her that's not the case because at another service shop the guy told me the Explorer has the problem and I've read many other people's posts on the subject.

I see why everyone hates dealerships.

 

[07XLT4x2v8]

Mark: I hear you on this, I'm scared sh!!less about changing my plugs, but will have to take the plunge sooner or later.
Not sure what method you may be using, but I think that granadojl had great success with the WD-40. It must have soften the carbon and lubricated the threads at the same time. Makes me think that I will initally use the ford carb cleaner, then WD-40 or PB Blaster to lube the plug threads.
Keep us up to date and please post what method you used and what you would or wouldn't do the next time.
Thanks again for your post and best of luck.

Well I have pretty much followed that path, using Kroil, WD-40, now PB blaster.
Since only 2/8 done, I'll post more this weekend.

 

[GRNMACHINE]

willied,
That is wild, usually the dealerships want to "scare" you into getting services done way before they are needed. They usually dont turn down business. Before I started wrenching on my Ex I had the dealer change the front brakes at 36k (used to 90's GM cars-pads usually gone by 25k). They had no problem doing the work - they said pads werent really needed at 36k but whatever the customer pays for.

 

[willied]

willied,
That is wild, usually the dealerships want to "scare" you into getting services done way before they are needed. They usually dont turn down business. Before I started wrenching on my Ex I had the dealer change the front brakes at 36k (used to 90's GM cars-pads usually gone by 25k). They had no problem doing the work - they said pads werent really needed at 36k but whatever the customer pays for.

It is interesting. It seems like dealerships deny problems like this for whatever reason. All I know is that a local shop I got some work done at was aware of the problem and the guy said he had worked on like 4 or so Explorers with the problem, yet the lady at the dealer didn't even think it effected this engine. Beats me.

 

[Explorer Junky]

It is interesting. It seems like dealerships deny problems like this for whatever reason. All I know is that a local shop I got some work done at was aware of the problem and the guy said he had worked on like 4 or so Explorers with the problem, yet the lady at the dealer didn't even think it effected this engine. Beats me.

I found out about a little known problem by accident. I found out after I spent $800 bucks for a front cat section from dealership, that, if the left front cat went bad AT or BEFORE 80,000 miles on the 5.0 version. They would replace it free. But, if you got to 80,001, you were S.O.L.My light went on at 79,000 something then went off. Did not come back on til after the 80,000. I aske dif it was a recall, and of course they said no. When I pushed them the guy hung up on me.

 

[willied]

I found out about a little known problem by accident. I found out after I spent $800 bucks for a front cat section from dealership, that, if the left front cat went bad AT or BEFORE 80,000 miles on the 5.0 version. They would replace it free. But, if you got to 80,001, you were S.O.L.My light went on at 79,000 something then went off. Did not come back on til after the 80,000. I aske dif it was a recall, and of course they said no. When I pushed them the guy hung up on me.

Wow, that sucks. I hate the fact that I bought a used vehicle and now I have to pick up the slack where Ford left off. I have to get the tranny recalibrated like the TSB says, the spark plugs changed which has a TSB, and the A/C has a problem that's described in a TSB, all of these being common and well known problems, all of which I have to pay for because Ford screwed up. I still love my Explorer, but I could have gone with something else and had none of these problems...oh well.

 

[TowingExplorer]

I've got 56k on my 2006 LE now. About 5k miles ago I was going to change my plugs for maintenance and then I read all of the threads on here and elsewhere on the net. Bought the tool. Talked to my local parts manager and he said not to bother till 100k unless I have to. He said that plugs do break at just 50k miles and that they are 100k plugs. He said that if there is not a current problem, just leave them alone.

I think that if I do decide to change them at some point, possibly at 100k miles at this rate, I will go with the Champion plug as I believe they are a single plug body design so the issue with the Motorcraft plugs should not happen.

 

[willied]

I took my car in today to get the spark plugs changed along with a couple of other things. It's like $198 if they don't break any, which I'm sure they will.

 

[Explorer Junky]

I took my car in today to get the spark plugs changed along with a couple of other things. It's like $198 if they don't break any, which I'm sure they will.

I have NEVER had an issue with breaking a plug!!! All it takes is constant pressure with out going "Hog nuts" on them. If you need to use an extension, you need to put pressure in the opposite way you are pulling/pushing. For example; if you are on drivers side, all the way to the right, put your right hand under the head of the wrench, and as you pull down to the ground with your left hand, you push up with your right hand. Breaking plugs CAN be avoided. The key is to keep the socket from coming down on the end of the plug.

 

[willied]

I have NEVER had an issue with breaking a plug!!! All it takes is constant pressure with out going "Hog nuts" on them. If you need to use an extension, you need to put pressure in the opposite way you are pulling/pushing. For example; if you are on drivers side, all the way to the right, put your right hand under the head of the wrench, and as you pull down to the ground with your left hand, you push up with your right hand. Breaking plugs CAN be avoided. The key is to keep the socket from coming down on the end of the plug.

Other people have, though, so I have the right to worry. Have you done it on a 4th gen?

 

[GRNMACHINE]

Lets hope they dont Willied!

 

[Explorer Junky]

Other people have, though, so I have the right to worry. Have you done it on a 4th gen?

On a 4th gen... no. But, older more rusty gear up here in the salt and rust belt yes!

 

[Bill MacLeod]

On a 4th gen... no. But, older more rusty gear up here in the salt and rust belt yes!

Not trying to offend you, BUT you need to realize what the problem is on the 3 valve motor in the 4 gens.(early 4th gens only)
Simply put, the spark plugs are 2 piece, there is a "long barrel" that extends into the head, this gets covered in carbon, literally seizes to head and brakes when removed.
Now you have a broken spark plug in the head with the threaded portion laying in your hand. See the problem now. How do you remove the barrel/sleeve and the porcelain.

 

[Explorer Junky]

Not trying to offend you, BUT you need to realize what the problem is on the 3 valve motor in the 4 gens.(early 4th gens only)
Simply put, the spark plugs are 2 piece, there is a "long barrel" that extends into the head, this gets covered in carbon, literally seizes to head and brakes when removed.
Now you have a broken spark plug in the head with the threaded portion laying in your hand. See the problem now. How do you remove the barrel/sleeve and the porcelain.

DYNAMITE!!!!! Ever here of CRC's new product? Freeze off!! You spray it for 2-3 seconds, and it actually gets so cold that it breaks corrosion and OTHER junk off. I used it on some stuff before and it made it a lot easier to get the nuts off severely rusted components.