Basic removal/installation is not overly complicated. I never had a chance to change mine before trade but if anything like my Taurus SHO the back plugs at least for that vehicle I removed the strut tower cross brace. Very simple, look for the bolts I believe the inboard bolts for the strut tower also connect the cross brace.
AutoZone and I am sure you can find them on Amazon has a spark plug socket that has lasted me over ten years and multiple vehicles well worth the $20...back in 2009 but you get the idea.
Regular Spark Plug Socket but with a twist. 5/8 Deep Well socket, has the plug insulator, small magnet and six inch extension built in and basically one stop shopping. The extension built as part of the socket so no need to worry about the extension falling out of the socket. Extension has a small universal built in for helping adjust the angle. You can add extensions to the original but I believe I only had to do that once. The extension also acts as a handle for the socket to help thread into the spark plug well
This is the link from AutoZone. I stand corrected the extension is 10" 3/8 drive 5/8 internal diameter. The 10" Could be slightly tight on the back bank but they worked perfect on my Taurus. Price even down over the years not up.
I have used that plug to change plugs on about five different vehicles and it has worked as advertised un until the Infiniti which is smaller. I changed plugs on Audi, Volvo, Ford at least. Good news is if you are buying the plugs from A/Z you can test the fit right in the store.
Plugs themselves small dab of Die Electric Grease on the plug tip, some Anti-Seize for the threads and of course start by hand. Personally I use regular sockets on Spark Plugs to...…."Protect me from my self" and significantly reduce the risk of over tightening. The socket/extension combination also has the rubber boots in the socket so pretty much fool proof system and in my opinion has paid for itself multiple times.
One more hopefully constructive suggestion and take it or not.
When I open the new plug and prep the new plug for installation, (Anti-Seize, Die Electric Grease, check gap etc....Yes Even pre gapped plugs need to be checked for shipping damage, hairline fractures on the electrode.
What I do is take the new plug, but KEEP the boxes. When I remove the old plug I place the new plug into the same cylinder. I label the box with the cylinder number (#1-6) This allows me to review the old plugs later to compare against wear charts. If there are any abnormalities in the wear pattern you can isolate the abnormality to that particular cylinder. Plus you can review the wear chart and abnormality in the comfort of inside with A/C and not in the hot, sticky garage.
I even went to far as to label the Coil Pack with a contrasting color permanent marker....again #1-6.
Hope these fairly simple life hacks will help.