Spark Plug Help

[jtilley87]

Hey guys, wondering what went wrong. First let me say that the 2004 explorer 4.0 is the biggest pain in the a** to work on. I have never had to remove an alt to access plug wires! total Bull if you ask me! But anyway, My x has 86,x.. on her, so i thought it would be an appropriate time to do a tune-up. So i did the tune-up, Bosch premium plug wires and bosch plat +4 Ir. plugs. Now, when i crank it it has a rough idle and acts like it wants to shut off. Then on my way to the ford bodyshop to get my door fixed, the check engine light came on. Why would this happen? All i have done is plugs and wires, havn't even done the fuel filter yet. Do i need to get the codes cleared and see what happens? Are the bosch Ir a good plug for the 4.0 x? Anyone have any other ideas? Please help me out!!!!! Thanks,

Joe

 

[2kawdexplorer]

Need to get the light checked out, you may have just knocked off a vac. line or something. But also I have never seen a ford that liked bosch spark plugs.

 

[thepotroast]

Have the codes read...go to the auto parts store you bought the plugs/wires from and have them pull the codes for free.

Also, you can access your plugs much easier by just taking off the front wheels, thus exposing the block, you don't need to go at it from the top.

In your course of dismantling the unnecessary parts from the top, did you happen to unplug a wire that didn't get plugged back in, or accidentally snag a wire to a sensor, etc? Perhaps the MAF, coolant temp sensor, or something else?

I find that the Motorcraft plugs work just fine, it's a Ford part...they are platinum, and it's what the trucks come with from the factory.

 

[jtilley87]

thanks for the quick replies guys! yes i did unplug the MAF but put it back. I was thinking it could be vaccum, but didn't really know where to start looking for that. I don't really know my way around this engine too much. after removing the air intake tube, there really wasn't any wires in the way. It is making temp so the temp sensor is working. I will take it up to autozone today when i get it back from the body shop to clear the codes. we shall see. Thanks for the help i will let yall know what happens. Might just have to go back with the MC Platinums!!!

Joe

 

[jtilley87]

Also, you can access your plugs much easier by just taking off the front wheels, thus exposing the block, you don't need to go at it from the top.



Plugs were easy. It is the wires that are a pain.

 

[thepotroast]

Plugs were easy. It is the wires that are a pain.

You don't have to take off your alternator to replace your wires. I just did my plugs and wires 2 weeks ago, the wires are a little tricky because of the snap clamps that are used, but everything is routed around or under the alternator, nothing that requires the removal of anything to replace them.

Personally I wouldn't have gone with the Bosch plugs for the Explorer, the OEM Motorcraft platinum's are just fine. I know you probably spent close to 10 bucks a pop for those plugs, so you're in for some $$ on those, but the Motorcrafts are about $5 ea, I'd throw those in there...and make sure to gap them correctly... .052 - .056

If that CEL is still on, go to AutoZone and get them to pull the code(s) for you. It makes diagnosing more accurate, rather than guessing.

 

[jtilley87]

I couldn't get the x back today so maybe Monday i will be able to go to autozone so they can pull the codes!

Yea the Bosch's were 7.99 ea. What do you think about the Bosch wires?

 

[thepotroast]

I couldn't get the x back today so maybe Monday i will be able to go to autozone so they can pull the codes!

Yea the Bosch's were 7.99 ea. What do you think about the Bosch wires?

The Bosch wires are fine. I personally have never had luck running Bosch plugs in a Ford motor, and I've owned a number of Ford's. I either stick with the Motorcraft's or Autolite's (much cheaper). Just gotta gap them outta the box of course...I laugh at people who think single diode plugs come 'pre-gapped'...the Motorcraft Platinum's I just put it ranged anywhere from .020 to .040....not even close to the .052 - .056 that they have to be in the 4.0L

 

[menace0811]

I just changed mine today. Same Plugs but I used motorcraft wires. I also removed the air hose but went at it from above. I had what appears to be the same problem. Plug wires were a pain but i just removed the plastic organizer that went behind the alternator. All they touch is the cover which is plastic anyway and doesn't get too hot. I think it should be ok.

I also ran into the same problem after all was done. It took about a couple of minutes to fiqure out that the firing order is not the same on the coil as the motor. Quick check on autozone confirmed that I hhould have paid a little more attention to the order that the wires were in.
It's this:

1 2 3

5 6 4

Once I switched 5 and 6 all was well. From what i gather the light should go out in a week or so.

 

[DVRDOWN]

...From what i gather the light should go out in a week or so.

You can always just disconnect the negative side of the battery real quick and that should clear the code. Otherwise it should clear itself after 3 (i think) cycles of normal driving with no codes reporting.

 

[menace0811]

OK, the SES light went out today.
About 3 trips.
It is running very smooth.

 

[jtilley87]

Yea , I should have paid a bit more atention too. I got my car back today, and went to autozone to pull the code. It was an oxygen sensor was too lean and the ecu tried to correct but couldn't. So I came home and cleared the codes. Right now i have put 9.6 miles on her and no CEL yet. It seems since i cleared the codes, I am not experiencing the rough idle, which is good. I guess we will see how she does on the way to work tomorrow! LOL! 35 miles round trip Hopefully we will have no problems!!

Joe