Speed control issues | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Speed control issues

Alexdeluca

Active Member
Joined
July 26, 2012
Messages
97
Reaction score
0
City, State
Orlando, Florida
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 explorer xlt
hi I recently bought a 2001 ford explorer xlt as my first car and i had the cruise control buttons replaced because the old ones were melted.

however i cant get the cruise control to activate. the lights for the buttons come on but when i press the on button the dash light does not come on and it does not work. does anyone know what to do?


P.S. I am a young kid and i dont know much about cars but i would like to try and fix it myself for the pride and to save money.

Thank You
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Pressing the On button won't turn on the dash light, it just arms the system. You have to press the Set/Accel button to activate cruise and turn on the dash light.

If after doing the above the dash light only gives a quick flash something else is wrong. I just fixed mine today because the dash light would just give a quick flash when I pressed the On button and then Set/Accel.

In the case of my 99 one test is to unplug the connector at the servo on the passenger side fender and check for voltage between pins 4 and 10 (light tan on 4 and black on 10) with the ignition key off. No voltage indicates a bad brake light/brake position switch.

I had no voltage at the servo plug. The switch was my problem.
 












Is the bulb in the dash blown?

One other place to check, but not sure if this will matter. Ford had a recall and replaced a wiring harness on the brake master cylinder for the cruise. The dealers did not have all the parts on hand so they just unpluged the connector at the master cylinder. To top it off the first new harneses that were replaced were then recalled. Check that its pluged in and the new type. If it is the new harness, then there is a fuse in it, check the fuse.

Like I said not sure if this will help, but I dont think my cruise light came on while this was unpluged.

One other thing you are driving while setting the cruise? Wont work while just sitting.
 


















At the very tip of the master cylinder, it's plugged into a pressure sensor. That sensor is known to go bad and when it does the cruise will not set. The sensor is cheap and easy to replace. Check it with an ohm meter, it should have continuity (closed switch) and then no continuity (open switch) when the brake pedal is depressed.
 


















Self test

I looked up the self test for your 2001 and it's a little different than my 1999 but the idea is the same. The procedure puts the system into self test mode and then tests each of the cruise control buttons for proper operation and results of the button press. I'd disregard the part about connecting the scan tool. You'll be looking for flash codes of the instrument panel light during and after the test.

Incidentally mine DID pass the self test but the cruise still didn't work. I finally traced it to a bad Brake Pedal Position switch. This switch also works the brake lights. My brake lights worked fine but the part of the switch used by the cruise control was bad.



1.Self Test Diagnostic Procedure - Static Test

a.Connect the diagnostic scan tool (DST) to a power source that is not interrupted when the ignition switch changes positions. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, set the DST to monitor the powertrain control module (PCM) throttle position PID while the speed control actuator carries out the self-test.
b.Enter self-test diagnostics by firmly pressing and holding the speed control OFF switch while quickly cycling the ignition switch from RUN-to-OFF-to-RUN, making sure the engine does not start and is not running.
c.The speed control indicator lamp on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that the speed control module has entered the self test diagnostic mode. Release the OFF switch. If 5 flashes are displayed at this point, a speed control subsystem concern exists. Refer to the Symptom Chart in the vehicle WSM. (My note: WSM is Workshop Manual)
d.Then firmly press and release the remaining switches WITHIN 1 SECOND of each other in the sequence below. The speed control indicator lamp flashes once after each of the buttons is successfully pressed.

On, then RSM, then CST, then Set/Accel

What you're hoping for is the dash light will flash with every button press and then you should hear the servo pull the throttle open slightly then release it. If possible it would be best if somebody actually watched the servo cable pull open the throttle because it can be hard to hear while you're in the truck pushing buttons.

If after pressing Set/Accel you get 2 or more flashes let me know the count and I'll look it up.

NOTE:

THERE WILL BE A SLIGHT DELAY FROM WHEN THE LAST BUTTON IS PRESSED AND THE CLUSTER LAMP FLASHES DIAGNOSTIC CODES.

NOTE:

IF THE SELF-TEST WILL NOT START OR CANNOT BE COMPLETED AFTER MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS, GO TO THE VEHICLE WSM SYMPTOM CHART.


2.Self Test Diagnostic Procedure - Dynamic Test

NOTE:

THE DYNAMIC TEST OCCURS AUTOMATICALLY AFTER THE STATIC TEST PASSES. IF THE STATIC TEST FAILS RESULTING IN FLASH CODES, THERE WILL BE NO DYNAMIC PULL TEST.

a.Within .25 seconds after the static test has completed, the speed control actuator carries out a dynamic pull test. The actuator automatically pulls the speed control cable .04 to .39" (1 to 10 mm) to move the throttle from the idle position and then releases the speed control cable returning the throttle to the idle position.
 






My '01 ST's cruise buttons are peeling & melted - what's the best deal anyone's found on the buttons?

Has anyone tried the billet aluminum cruise buttons for Mustangs? The buttons look the same, but I wonder if they just replace the melted gummy part of the buttons, and if they would still be lighted, etc.
 






The best price I was able to find was at Rockauto.com. I understand there are some available on eBay for less but I've read on the forum their quality isn't very good. Rockauto sells genuine Ford parts just a lot cheaper than Ford dealers do.
 












On my 99 it's orange as well, and it's the original. It still works but of course that doesn't mean yours does, and they're known to be a problem.

It's not a very expensive part but I'm not a big believer in just throwing parts at a problem. I like to find the actual problem and replace only what's necessary to solve it. It's your call though, it might actually fix it.

Have you run through the self test I posted above? It will help to narrow things down to the source.

If you have access to a decent multimeter I'd suggest unplugging the connector at the orange switch and checking the resistance across the two terminals on the switch. It should be less than 5 ohms. Any higher than that replace the switch.

Hope this helps.
 






Well, I spoke too soon.

The cruise worked for almost 3 weeks after replacing the brake arm switch, then quit just giving a quick flash of the dash light when Set/Accel was pressed.

I started the whole troubleshooting thing over again and now found the resistance across the two terminals of the pressure switch on the master cylinder was 14 ohms, much more than the 5 ohms or less specified.

I replaced the pressure switch and the cruise works again.
 






test results

CHIKAR, I did the static test, got 1 light with each button push and then 2 flashes after? Any ideas... thanks
 






This is a cut and paste from the Ford Workshop manual DVD. Unfortunately it didn't also copy the pictures which would make it easier for you to follow.

I'd think the most likely problem would be the switch on the brake pedal. I had to replace mine.

The servo is a possibility. Mine quit again and troubleshooting is pointing the finger at the servo. The servo, by the way, on my 1999 is on the passenger side fender well just behind the windshield washer tank. It will have a cable going to the throttle.


Flash code 2
Circuitry.
BPP switch. (Brake Pedal Switch)
CPP switch or jumper. (Clutch Pedal)
Speed control servo.
GO to Pinpoint Test B .

PINPOINT TEST B: FLASH CODE 2 — BRAKE PEDAL POSITION SWITCH CIRCUIT FAILURE
CONDITIONS DETAILS/RESULTS/ACTIONS
B1 CHECK THE BRAKE PEDAL POSITION (BPP) SWITCH CIRCUITRY




Speed Control Servo C171




Measure the voltage between speed control servo C171 Pin 4, Circuit 306 (TN/LB), harness side and speed control servo C171 Pin 10, Circuit 57 (BK), harness side.


Is voltage present?
Yes
GO to B7 .

No
If the vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission with high series console, GO to B5 . If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission or automatic transmission without high series console, GO to B2 .
B2 CHECK THE CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION (CPP) SWITCH




CPP Switch or Jumper C209


Measure the resistance between CPP switch or jumper Pin 3 (component side), and CPP switch or jumper Pin 4, (component side).


Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
GO to B3 .

No
INSTALL a new CPP switch or jumper. TEST the system for normal operation.
B3 CHECK CIRCUIT 306 (TN/LB) FOR AN OPEN

Measure the resistance between speed control servo C171 Pin 4, Circuit 306 (TN/LB), harness side and CPP switch or jumper C209 Pin 3, Circuit 306 (TN/LB), harness side.


Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
GO to B4 .

No
REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation.
B4 CHECK CIRCUIT 810 (RD/LG) FOR AN OPEN


BPP Switch C224


Measure the resistance between CPP switch or jumper C209 Pin 4, Circuit 810 (RD/LG), harness side and BPP switch C224 Pin 2, Circuit 810 (RD/LG), harness side.


Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
GO to B6 .

No
REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation.
B5 CHECK CIRCUIT 810 (RD/LG) AND CIRCUIT 306 (TN/LB) FOR AN OPEN




BPP Switch C224


Measure the resistance between speed control servo C171 Pin 4, Circuit 306 (TN/LB), harness side and BPP switch C224 Pin 2, Circuit 810 (RD/LG), harness side.


Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
GO to B6 .

No
REPAIR Circuit 810 (RD/LG) or Circuit 306 (TN/LB). TEST the system for normal operation.
B6 CHECK CIRCUIT 57 (BK) AT BPP SWITCH

Measure the resistance between BPP switch C224 Pin 1, Circuit 57 (BK), harness side and ground.


Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
INSTALL a new BPP switch; REFER to Section 417-01 . TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REPAIR Circuit 57 (BK). TEST the system for normal operation.
B7 CHECK THE BPP SWITCH


BPP Switch C224


Measure the voltage between speed control servo C171 Pin 4, Circuit 306 (TN/LB), harness side and speed control servo C171 Pin 10, Circuit 57 (BK), harness side.


Is voltage present?
Yes
If the vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission with high series console, REPAIR Circuit 810 (RD/LG) or Circuit 306 (TN/LB). If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission or automatic transmission without high series console, GO to B8 .

No
INSTALL a new BPP switch; REFER to Section 417-01 . TEST the system for normal operation.
B8 CHECK CIRCUIT 306 (TN/LB) FOR SHORT TO POWER


CPP Switch or Jumper C209


Measure the voltage between speed control servo C171 Pin 4, Circuit 306 (TN/LB), harness side and speed control servo C171 Pin 10, Circuit 57 (BK), harness side.


Is voltage present?
Yes
REPAIR Circuit 810 (RD/LG). TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REPAIR Circuit 306 (TN/LB). TEST the system for normal operation.
 






Static test

CHIKAR, I did the static test, got 1 light with each button push and then 2 flashes after? Any ideas... thanks

I've just noticed you said you got 1 light with each button push. Normally, the light should NOT flash when you press Set/Accel if you're getting 2 additional flashes after pressing Set/Accel.

Geoff
 






Mine seems to be fixed, decided to check the switch at the master cylinder and found the wire disconnected,taped with electrical tape and wire tied to an adjacent wiring bundle. Took the tape off, plug it in and all works. Must be a case were the dealer didn't have the new wiring. Now for piece of mind I need to find the right harness.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Mine seems to be fixed, decided to check the switch at the master cylinder and found the wire disconnected,taped with electrical tape and wire tied to an adjacent wiring bundle. Took the tape off, plug it in and all works. Must be a case were the dealer didn't have the new wiring. Now for piece of mind I need to find the right harness.

When the recall first happened the dealer would disconect and tape the harness. Sounds like your truck was not taken back after this. Your truck should be recouded as being in the recall but not have been fixed. Check with your dealer and maybe the harness will be free.

Remember there were 2 recalls for this. For the people that got the first harnesses put on, there was another recall for the new harness.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top