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spewing coolant below thermostat

LoL...the coolant temp sensor.....the new one will come with an Oring on it and the housing will come with the Seal on it as well....

Mine didn't come with the seal on it and I got it from Ford, maybe there's a different part number that comes with it, no idea...
 



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It was like 1.50 so no big deal, the housing was like US$3 cheaper on my local dealer than what I had seen it online, plus they had in on stock, so no waiting
 






Correct the sensor is what is plugged in.... pinch and pull it off and then there is a lil clip thing that actually holds that sensor in...pull it off and the sensor comes right out.....NOW, when you get the new housing you will have to buy another sensor because the o-ring on the sensor wont seal correctly.....it'll be loose, the O-ring has conformed to the old housing.....they are like $10 at parts store....

Yes replacing the housing is just as simple.....just 3 more bolts...i could change it in less them a minute(not including coolant drain).....its so easy a caveman can do it.....(hides under the desk)......when you install it make sure the o-ring is on the bottom of the housing....and it is seated correctly.....and torque it down correctly....I think its like 81 inlbs?...

Looking at my Haynes manual it shows the thermostat housing cover bolts for V6 engine is 89in-lb. So i would imagine the lower housing would be the same?
 






Looking at my Haynes manual it shows the thermostat housing cover bolts for V6 engine is 89in-lb. So i would imagine the lower housing would be the same?

Yeup, sounds about right. It was 8somthing that I torqued them to.....
 






So now I just need to order the parts (havent decided weather i am ordering FPN or RockAuto). Then I have to decide weather I want to do the lazy way and have someone do it for me or do it myself. Ill most likely have it done for me since I have to get my cooling system flushed
 






So now I just need to order the parts (havent decided weather i am ordering FPN or RockAuto). Then I have to decide weather I want to do the lazy way and have someone do it for me or do it myself. Ill most likely have it done for me since I have to get my cooling system flushed


Goggle "rockauto coupon" and find a coupon thatll werk and itll give you an extra 5% off ur order..

Flushing is easy too.....i just take the thermostat out and flush with a water hose.....heater core too....
 






Goggle "rockauto coupon" and find a coupon thatll werk and itll give you an extra 5% off ur order..

Flushing is easy too.....i just take the thermostat out and flush with a water hose.....heater core too....

Doesn't flushing the coolant also flush the heater core also or is it something you do separately? Sounds like a dumb question but I am still learning all this stuff.
 






Doesn't flushing the coolant also flush the heater core also or is it something you do separately? Sounds like a dumb question but I am still learning all this stuff.

Eh, even doing a "coolant flush" isnt getting all the crap out of the system. I force it all out with a water hose. take hoses off and shove water thru the sytem, all while the engine is running......

When I did my GFs a few weeks ago I pulled all the hoses off and shoved the water hose in em.....
 






So this thread has been dead for a little while, but just in case someone else in the future is looking up this same problem (like I was the last couple days), I'll add my 2 cents.

I had the same repair; failed lower thermostat housing, but once replaced the (2) ECT sensors were leaking like crazy. (***Side note: it is incredible how much coolant volume can come out of those 2 little leak sources...it will make you think you're chasing a much bigger leak somewhere else unless you pressure test the system...learn from my mistake!***) I tried the gasket seal method like John Mc-I described above, but that only slowed the leak. Under high pressure/temperature, the sealant wasn't enough to hold. The leak did lessen once the system warmed up; apparently the plastic lower thermostat housing expands (making the hole smaller) and there isn't as much room to leak. This will slow the coolant from a steady stream leaking under the truck to a slow drip...but still leaks.

I've decided to buy the new sensors to get the O-rings replaced on them for a tighter seal...you can tell the old ones are pretty compressed from the first 7 years of fitting inside the old housing. I hate to buy new sensors just for the o-rings but none of my assortment of loose rubber rings will fit correctly. I will post the results tonight after they're installed.

Another note (although somebody already identified it above), the 2002 4.0 SOHC is the first time this arrangement appeared. Previous models had the 2-piece intake manifold and a different thermostat housing configuration, which is what the Haynes manual shows in their instructions. If I had been paying enough attention earlier I would have taken pictures throughout the process and make a "How-To" post since this seems to be a common problem now that those of us with '02 and later Rangers are getting up there in miles.
 






Gosh Red I am sorry it has not worked for you. I remember when I put the High tack gasket stuff on and all around the sensors and pushed them into place the sensors were gooped up pretty good as the compound stuff oosed out around the sensors when I put them in place. I quite frankly am surprised it has held this long and I always check the area for any coolant leak when I lift the hood. Someday, more than likely, I will have to address it once again. Please post up if the new sensors work better due to the newer rubber rings on the sensors themselves. I think you and everyone who has messed with this goofy problem would agree that it is a crazy design by Ford, to say the least and that is an understatement.
 






OK, replaced both sensors last night. FYI (most of you probably already know this...I'm learning as I go...) the reason there are 2 sensors: one feeds to the computer (called the Coolant Temperature Switch) and the other goes to the temp gauge (called the ECT sensor or 'sending unit'). From the dealer the parts were like $22 and $40, from Auto Zone they were $14 and $31. There was a distinct "pop" when you get the new sensors pushed into place as the o-rings fit into their seals...a good sign. Hooked everything back up and pumped up the pressure test rig...all good. :D Finished reassembly and started up the truck for a test drive. All good. Looks like this is the "correct" way to fix the problem of leaking ECT sensors.

OK, now that the job's done here's a couple of notes from my lessons learned:

1. After finishing the job, I don't think it was really necessary to replace the old sensors to fix the leak. As long as you can find the right sized O-ring to fit, I think that would have worked fine.

2. It's easy to notice once you have the new sensors to compare with how much the old sensor seals had compressed...I tried to take a picture but was lousy quality on my iPhone under low light (see below). Notice the difference in ring width between the new sensor (on the left) and the old sensor...no wonder it wasn't holding a seal!

3. You don't have to remove the intake manifold to complete this job, but it does make it a lot easier to access everything. I removed the manifold so I could see back to all the rest of the block while I pumped up the pressure test kit to look for leaks in other places, and took the opportunity to replace gaskets and clean the top of the block. It is possible, however, to replace the lower T-stat housing and sensors with the intake manifold in place.

4. Be very careful when removing the spring retainer clips around the sensors...they can fall down into some unbelievably small cracks if you lose hold of them! Thank god for extendable magnets and a good LED flashlight...

Hope this helps for anyone else trying to do this replacement.
 

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RED, thanks for this. I will keep your e-mail thread info and will surely use your better method when I have to go back in and replace the sensors. I was to cheap to buy new ones way back when I did it, hense, the cobbling up using the old ones. But, when they fail, and it is probably only a matter of time before it happens, I will get the two new sensors if I can't find exact O-rings to fit the old sensors.
Thanks, John
 












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