Spring Over Axel Q&A

[DixieOnMyMind59]

I will be doing a Spring Over Axel conversion to my X after i install my 3'' spindle lift.

My questions are -

1. What neccesary items will i need for the SOA conversion?
2. What should i do about lengthening my driveshaft?
3. What is the best way to re-attach my shocks?
4. Would i be smarter to just spend more money on the Superlift 4'' Lift Springs?

Thanks, I know yall can help me
Colton

 

[IZwack]

If you have a welder, then do the SOA as an SOA requires new spring perches to be welded on top of the axle tubes.
If you dont have a welder, then go with the SuperLift springs since thats all bolt-on.

As for the driveshaft, take it a driveshaft place and have it lengthened.

As for the shocks, use your imagination I'm sure you can come up with some way of attaching those shocks.

 

[DixieOnMyMind59]

Thanks,
I have two friends of mine that have welders and know how to weld (the spring perches). I also know the guy that owns my city's only off-road shop and i called him and asked him how much he would charge to lengthen my driveshaft on a 99' X and he quoted me $90 to lengthen it and $40 more to balance it.
What are some of the best possible ways to re-attach my stock shocks?

Thanks,
Colton

 

[DixieOnMyMind59]

Ok, im getting ready to do my lift soon. I need someone to PLEASE either talk me into or out of doing a SOA....someone PLEASE!

My biggest question i have now is, *am i guaranteed to have a problem with my driveshaft to where is have to have it lengthened?* Is there a way to do a SOA without having to mess with the driveshaft at all? I don't want to have to buy anything other than the spring perches b/c the driveshaft work is $$$.

Thanks,
Colton

 

[IZwack]

Yes there is a way to not have to touch the driveshaft .. and that is to move the axle forward 1 or 2 inches hehe - nothing comes easy.

 

[DixieOnMyMind59]

Yes there is a way to not have to touch the driveshaft .. and that is to move the axle forward 1 or 2 inches hehe - nothing comes easy.

And this will work? Thats all i need to do? You mean just move it up one hole on the spring perch, right?

Thanks,
Colton

 

[IZwack]

And this will work? Thats all i need to do? You mean just move it up one hole on the spring perch, right?

Thanks,
Colton

Conceptually yes, moving the leaf-spring stud to another hole would work. But the problem is the plate which the U-bolts go through (assuming you're using the old plates that used to sit at the bottom of the leaf springs). The hole on this plate will not line up with the leaf spring's top stud so you'll need some ingenuity with this problem.

Also, I dont know which spring perches you bought but the 8.8's axle tube (which I think is 3.25") is wider than most spring perches out there (I bought the Mopar ones from Summit) so you may need to grind the perches a little bit -- and of course this means you could only grind one side of the arch instead of both which would move the perch "forward" of the axle.

THe biggest drawback of moving the axle forward is the danger of rubbing the rear tires against the fender .. so choose yo weapons wiseley

 

[DixieOnMyMind59]

Conceptually yes, moving the leaf-spring stud to another hole would work. But the problem is the plate which the U-bolts go through (assuming you're using the old plates that used to sit at the bottom of the leaf springs). The hole on this plate will not line up with the leaf spring's top stud so you'll need some ingenuity with this problem.

Also, I dont know which spring perches you bought but the 8.8's axle tube (which I think is 3.25") is wider than most spring perches out there (I bought the Mopar ones from Summit) so you may need to grind the perches a little bit -- and of course this means you could only grind one side of the arch instead of both which would move the perch "forward" of the axle.

THe biggest drawback of moving the axle forward is the danger of rubbing the rear tires against the fender .. so choose yo weapons wiseley

This all makes it seem too complicated to where i don't even want to try and do it. It doesn't seem simple at all. If i did the 4'' Superlift rear lift leaf pack would i have any driveshaft issues with that?

Thanks,
Colton

 

[IZwack]

LOL DixieOnMyMind59 -- sorry for discouraging you.

Just get the perches and check out what needs to be done, you'll figure things out. Take things slowly and think things through. Don't do the final welds the same day you remove the axle from the leaf springs, spend that night thinking about how you're going to attack this challenge and I'm sure you'll be fine .

And yes, I believe the SuperLift 4" springs does require driveshaft lengthening.

 

[vayne]

About how much does the driveshalft need to be lengthened with a SOA?

 

[IZwack]

About how much does the driveshalft need to be lengthened with a SOA?

Well thats the odd thing, not everyone who does an SOA has needed the rear driveshaft lengthened. But if you do need it lengthened, most people go with 2 inches.

 

[DixieOnMyMind59]

not everyone who does an SOA has needed the rear driveshaft lengthened.

Now how can that be explained? That doesn't make any sense because...well it just doesn't. Has anyone done a "how-to" write up on doing a SOA on a 2nd gen. X? ALSO, since i am 2wd, i have a longer driveshaft...correct?

Thanks,
Colton

 

[IZwack]

Now how can that be explained? That doesn't make any sense because...well it just doesn't.

Yeah I know, I felt that way too but unfortunately, I was one of the unlucky ones and needed the driveshaft lengthened as it disconnected at the slip joint and the front-half continuously banged against the gas tank while the rear-half dragged on the ground.

Has anyone done a "how-to" write up on doing a SOA on a 2nd gen. X?

I dont think so but theres really not much to it.

since i am 2wd, i have a longer driveshaft...correct?

Thats correct.

You dont HAVE to have your driveshaft lengthened right away. Do the SOA, test drive it at low speeds (neighborhood for example, just in case the driveshaft disconnects) and see if it falls apart. Typically, the driveshaft will disconnect when going over speed bumps when the rear axle "tucks" up towards the frame rail as this is when the rear axle is furthest back from the transfer case due to the leaf spring flattening out and therefore getting longer. Since your vehicle is 2wd, make sure another vehicle is with you when you test drive it as your vehicle will probably need to be towed back if the driveshaft disconnects during test drive. For those future readers, 4wd vehicles can limp back home by placing the transfer case in the 4HI position -- after both halves of the rear driveshaft is removed from the vehicle.

 

[DixieOnMyMind59]

Ok, Ok that all sounds pretty simple....i think i can do it now and not worry too bad about screwing up my daily driver.

Now i've asked this before but i still don't know....what is the best way to reattach the bottom of the shocks? What are some possible ways to do it?

Thanks again,
Colton

 

[IZwack]

what is the best way to reattach the bottom of the shocks? What are some possible ways to do it?

The "best" way is to weld on a new set of shock tabs to the axle tubes. But of course thats just more work

The easiest way is to use one of the holes used for the anti-sway bar. Chances are, you wont be able to re-use the anti-sway bars as the axle is too far from the chassis after the SOA. So most people simply bolt the shock to one of the holes from the anti-sway bar.

 

[DixieOnMyMind59]

The easiest way is to use one of the holes used for the anti-sway bar.

So after i do the SOA, will i even need the sway bar? How neccesary is it? So what is the procedure for connecting the bottom of the shocks to the old sway bar mounting holes?

Thanks once agai,
Colton

 

[IZwack]

So after i do the SOA, will i even need the sway bar? How neccesary is it? So what is the procedure for connecting the bottom of the shocks to the old sway bar mounting holes?

The lack of a rear swaybar is hardly noticable.

But as for the procedure, you simply bolt the shock to the hole <-- its that easy.

 

[DixieOnMyMind59]

The lack of a rear swaybar is hardly noticable.

But as for the procedure, you simply bolt the shock to the hole <-- its that easy.

Ok, do i need to buy different sized bolts? Would it be easier to just flip and reverse the shock mount?

ALSO.....do i need to extend my brake lines???

Thanks,
Colton

 

[IZwack]

Yes most people just flip the shock mount plates. But, without some modifications, you will not be able to bolt the shocks to these as the holes will not line up properly.

As for bolting the shock to the anti-sway bar mount, just go to your local hardware store and see what fits. I think the lower shock bolts on the Explorer are 12mm (in other words, metric) -- I remember replacing the metal sleeves in the bushings in order to fit a 0.5" bolt. Dont worry about the shock so much, thats the last thing and the easiest thing to do. You can even drive your vehicle w/o a shock, just dont go too fast. I drove my Explorer w/o rear shocks for a few weeks.

You dont really need to extend the brake lines, just bend the bracket down a little (the one thats attached to the chassis) to give you some slack.

 

[DixieOnMyMind59]

Ok, sweet...that all sounds good.

I have one more question - ok, the new spring perch that i am going to weld to the top of the axel tube, it needs to be at the exact same angle as the old spring perch on the bottom to maintain the same pinion angle, correct?

Thanks again,
Colton