Starter Removal V6 sohc 4wd

[Josey Wales]

When putting it all back together, dont forget the starter ground wire. I forgot that and it got my heart pumping when it didnt do squat with the key turned clockwise all the way .lol

Lol. . . I'll be sure to double check all connections but. . . in which direction should I attack the top bolt since I'm needing almost 3 feet of extension. I'm doing my job from the ground?

 

[1992fordgreen]

Lol. . . I'll be sure to double check all connections but. . . in which direction should I attack the top bolt since I'm needing almost 3 feet of extension. I'm doing my job from the ground?

Sorry, I am of no verbal assistance at this point. I only work on my 96 explorer. Which is much easier on starter removal.

GL OP

 

[Josey Wales]

Thanks, maybe someone else might be able to shed some light on this. . .

 

[KHE]

Lower the front differential - If I recall correctly, it was only four bolts and once the front diff/axle assembly is lowered, there is plenty of room. The noise dampener needs to be removed as well - it is a large weight that is bolted to the frame.

 

[Josey Wales]

Lower the front differential - If I recall correctly, it was only four bolts and once the front diff/axle assembly is lowered, there is plenty of room. The noise dampener needs to be removed as well - it is a large weight that is bolted to the frame.

So I don't actually need the additional 2-3 feet of extension, swivel socket or wobble extension?

Is the front dif. easy to lower?

 

[KHE]

So I don't actually need the additional 2-3 feet of extension, swivel socket or wobble extension?

Is the front dif. easy to lower?

Front diff/axle assembly is easy to lower - use a floor jack to control the movement. Once the axle is out of the way, there is plenty of room to R&R the starter. I don't recall the length of the extensions I used - it's been a few years since I did the job.

 

[Buzzwagoner]

Can I get an update on this? Im trying to get the starter back in my 1996 Exploder 4wd. The drive shaft seems alot easier to take out, but if I take it out and it doesnt help Im gonna be pissed. Taking the Diff down seems like a real pain since Im on the ground, its freezing and snowing. Gotta get to work ugh

 

[KHE]

Can I get an update on this? Im trying to get the starter back in my 1996 Exploder 4wd. The drive shaft seems alot easier to take out, but if I take it out and it doesnt help Im gonna be pissed. Taking the Diff down seems like a real pain since Im on the ground, its freezing and snowing. Gotta get to work ugh

You post stated you're trying to get the starter back in? - just follow the reverse steps on how you removed it.

When I did the job, I lowered the front diff. as I stated in my earlier post.

 

[rb142]

Yeah, if you already managed to get the starter out without dropping the drive shaft or diff, it should be obvious how to get it back in the same way without moving anything.

With a 96, I assume that is the OHV motor. On my SOHC motor, there was no physical way to get the starter out or in without lowering the diff/axle assembly. Pulling the drive shaft would not have helped at all. Lowering the diff is actually easier. Take out a few bolts and it will all flex down a bit as an assembly. I didn't even need a jack under it. That move also gives a good bit more room to get in there and connect the wires -- it's worth it just for that.

I didn't use any long extensions. I tried that path and didn't see any way to actually make that work, not to mention being really awkward. I found the best combination to be an extension that gets your ratchet just to the end of the starter. A flex socket and a flex-head ratchet also make it much easier to wrangle. Attach/detach the wires when the starter is off and you can move it for better access. Use the easy-access lower bolt to hold the starter in place while you mess with the upper bolt, otherwise the weight will make the upper bolt even harder to handle.

 

[Buzzwagoner]

One would think that putting it in the reverse of taking it out would work. When I took out the old one I didnt care about breaking the housing and going back in there is nothing to pry against. Im basically on the side of the road not in a shop. So no air tools or lift, and theres lots of rust on everything. Im in the North East unfortunately. And its colder than a witches boob in a brass bra out! Im gona try the drive shaft I guess. Its only four little bolts that hopefully wont snap right off..thx fellas

 

[Buzzwagoner]

well heres my update.
I tried grindin some of the rib off the diff, but of course that did not gain me enough clearance. Had I known how easy it was to drop the diff I wouldve just done that from the beginning. One bolt from the bracket on the left side of the front diff, through an isolator into the frame. Took the bolt all the way out and it came down enough to slide that sob right in, no problem.

 

[Torqueranger]

well heres my update.
I tried grindin some of the rib off the diff, but of course that did not gain me enough clearance. Had I known how easy it was to drop the diff I wouldve just done that from the beginning. One bolt from the bracket on the left side of the front diff, through an isolator into the frame. Took the bolt all the way out and it came down enough to slide that sob right in, no problem.

I am by Atlantic city and if I had the time I would help out ..
But I just did one the other week and all I did was use a 2"x4" and jack on the passenger side and move the motor sightly and it pop right in with no problem..'
But watch out for the solenoid wire cause it is very close to the block and will ground out if not mounted correctly ..

 

[mrkarl4]

Using a 13mm wrench and 2lb sledge was the easiest for me to loosen the top bolt. The sledge fit sideways above the driveshaft, so it took quite a few hard taps to break the bolt, once it broke, it was a piece of cake with an air wrench, extension (3in is the longest I had), and 13mm socket.

 

[brheel03]

I am going to bring this thread back to life for my first post in this forum. After my Explorer pretty much left me stranded at work twice this week I decided after going through everything possible that my starter needed replaced. After much swearing, throwing and kicking things I managed to get the top bolt out, got the starter removed and got the new one installed for the most part. I ran out of daylight so I am going to have to finish it tomorrow (the 4th of July) The problem I am running into is that the neither bolt top or bottom wants to go in all the way, the go in so far and then act like they are binding. Could this be because the gears inside the starter that catch on the flywheel are not properly aligning or could it be that I was just that frustrated that I was not aligning anything properly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Also I want to say that I have been looking at these threads for the past year. They have helped me replace the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, the bank 2 o2 sensors, plugs and wires, cleaned the egr, cleaned the throttle body, replaced both front wheel bearings, as well as some other things I am forgetting. So I want to say thank you to the whole community and it's great to be on board.

 

[2000StreetRod]

correct starter?

The starter gear teeth should not engage the flexplate teeth unless the solenoid is energized. Are you certain your replacement starter is identical to your original?

What were your no start symptoms? Did you have the starter tested?

 

[brheel03]

When you would tuen the key it made no sound. It didnt wven act like it wanted to start, if u left the key in thw on position it for a bit it would eventually turn over and yes i am positive the starters are the same. So it has to be that i was tired and not aligning anything right.

 

[brheel03]

Update: been in the yard poking around with it for awhile now, got the bottom bolt in and the starter aligned correctly, the top bolt I can get it in up to the last 4-5 threads and it wont go any further. Wondering if in my haste last night if I dropped some washers or if there was another wire attached to the top bolt. Have no choice but to continue working on it as I need it finished before Monday morning so I can make it to work.

 

[sarwiz]

Glad I read through this, I was thinking of sending mine to a shop. I will try dropping the front diff, didn't even think of that. Starter went out a couple days ago, and just started tackling it last night. Sprayed pb blaster on all the bolts after disconnecting the battery, and called it a night. It actually looked like I might have to pull the motor. 2001 early Sporttrac 4wd (2000 engine package)
Thanks to you all in advance.

 

[Justinwht]

Bumping here...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...rter-replacment-2000-explorer-4-l-ohv.462220/

 

[Zack1978]

I don't know how exactly how the starter was replaced on my 1999 E/B SOHC because my neighbor did it for me. He is a professional mechanic and he has been in the business for over thirty years. He did it in my driveway with regular hand tools, and he didn't remove the driveshaft or the front diff. He managed to get it in and out with out that much difficulty. He did however mention that it was one of the more difficult starters to do. So it can be done without removing any parts