Still not starting after a fuel pump swap.

[brewsntattoos]

Hello all.

TL;DR at the bottom if you just want the quick and dirty.

Started about a week ago with my 1999 4.0 Explorer. Wouldn't start in the driveway one day, went and did a quick check on things, see if any plug wires were loose or off or if my air filter was bad. Tried it once more and it fired. A week later it did the same thing and I gave it a more of a good look. Ended up doing quick cheap fixes first like plugs and fuel filter and it fired up and ran for a day or two.

Then I was out running errands, stopped for 10 minutes and it was dead. Would not start up. I pulled my fuel line just after my filter and had a friend try and start it and no fuel was pumping out the filter at all. So I have it towed home and swap out the fuel pump, and it still won't start.

I checked my fuel pressure on the rail, was at 62 psi. I started checking my compression on the 3rd cylinder and was 135, then the second and it was 125. About that time my battery was starting to die, so we hooked it up with jumpers to another rig. Then a friend suggested I put the plug back and try priming it with a bit of gas in the air intake. So, I do, and it fires up, but wouldn't maintain and would die after a few seconds. We tried it a couple more times and got it to run for a second or two more while someone pressed on the throttle half open, but it would still quickly die out.

I'm a bit stumped at this point and not sure what is next. I am thinking it has to be something with the fuel rail or injectors, but I'm more of a carb guy and do not know my way around these systems very well.

TL;DR - Swapped out a fuel filter in my 99 4.0 Explorer. Pump works ( can hear it and see fuel squirt out the fuel line ) and have pressure on the rail at 62 psi. Started checking compression, and was suggested I prime it by pouring a little gas into the air intake. It started a few times, but only for a few seconds before dying. Not sure what is next.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! Do you have a check engine light? Did you scan the computer for error codes? Are some vacuum lines unplugged or damaged?

 

[brewsntattoos]

Thanks! Sorry, forgot to mention that when it died the last time, my check engine light was on. I don't have a scan tool to check the code, I guess I can try and rent one from my local parts store.

I have not checked for vacuum leaks. Vacuum stuff is always a bit of a blunder for me as well, but I will look at all the lines I can and see if any are cracked or loose. I'll try and do that tomorrow and get back with what I can. Thanks for the quick response!

 

[brewsntattoos]

So, I pulled codes today. Have not had a chance to check for vacuum leaks yet. Here's what I got.

P1000 - Didn't seem relevant

p0230 - Fuel pump primary circuit malfunction. Seems a bit more relevant to what I am dealing with. I need to pick up a multimeter and check the inertia switch. Seems that it can fail, even if it isn't thrown and needing to be reset. See if I get any voltage with wires on and off.

p1260 - This is the PATS system, which has to do with anti-theft. I had a new key cut once and it wouldn't work because it wasn't chipped, but when I tried it, the vehicle wouldn't even crank, let alone start. The key I have now will let the motor crank. So not sure if this is an issue or just needs to be cleared. From what I have read, I may just need to get a new key cut at the dealership and it should go away.

So, back to what I think is the problem, p0230. I start with the inertia switch and then try the relay's? I've read that I may need to replace the fuse, but I was not able to find one in my owners manual. I'll keep digging.

 

[2000StreetRod]

disabled fuel injectors?

On my 2000 Sport when I use an ignition key that the PCM does not recognize as valid the PCM disables the fuel injectors and THEFT rapidly flashes.

 

[brewsntattoos]

Went through, tested a few more things and for some reason decided after all that ( typical ) to clear the codes and see what comes back. P0230 went away, and P1260 came back. It was about then that I noticed that the 'Theft' light was flashing and now I know what my problem is.

Now, I know I need to get a key cut that is chipped. But, I don't have a Ford dealership around my area. Is this something a locksmith can do? Thanks for all the help. Been an interesting project that I certainly learned a lot from.

 

[2000StreetRod]

PATS key?

Did you lose a PATS key with the chip? If you never had a PATS key then the engine should never have started and run.

If you have a non-PATS key that fits the door and the ignition switch but no PATS key, call the local locksmiths and find one that is PATS qualified and has the machine to program the PCM for a new key. You'll either have to tow the vehicle to the locksmith or get him to come to the vehicle with blank PATS keys, a portable key cutting machine and the PCM programming machine. The first two cut keys take 15 to 20 minutes each to program the PCM to recognize them. It only takes about 30 seconds to program the PCM for the 3rd and subsequent keys. I always have three keys so if I lose one I can get a duplicate chip key cut and then program the PCM for it myself using the other two keys.