Stock 1995 Explorer Driver Window and other questions

[dasarge]

Have a stock 1995 Explorer. Drivers Window motor works but the window doesn't move with the Motor. I can bring the window down by hand and with a little help/persuasion can bring the window back up. Any ideas on cause and how to fix.

Other question, the 1995 Explorer is an XLT 2WD. How hard/difficult is it to convert it to 4WD?

Thanks!

 

[J_C]

In my opinion, it's not at all practical to convert to 4WD, there's the drivetrain (transfer case, front differential, drive shaft, axle shafts, wheel hubs, (maybe) front shocks, then sensors and wiring and module and dash switch and bezel with the hole for the switch... and probably more I'm not thinking of at the moment (did 2WD versions come with skid plates and exhaust shields?), on a vehicle not worth much over $1000 now (depending on condition).

I suppose if you have the free time and a donor vehicle it wouldn't be as bad but then they're old used parts. I'd sooner sell it and buy one with 4WD or really a 5.0L with AWD.

Window motor has probably worn out plastic pucks in its gear housing so it slips internally. Disassembly would reveal that, you can replace those pucks with a Dorman kit available at many auto parts stores or of course replace the whole motor assembly. You may want to lube the window track too as it may have been extra resistance that chewed the pucks up.

There's probably video(s) somewhere on youtube about this.


I think this is the right pucks but you'd want to take yours apart to verify that's all that is wrong:
https://www.autozone.com/interior/w.../dorman-window-regulator-gear-plug/426078_0_0
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-74410-Window-Regulator-Gear/dp/B000CO96SG

Of course it's possible there is something else wrong after 24 years, worn out motor for example.

 

[toypaseo]

You could try to grease the window regulator tracks.

My passenger window started to get slower in speed, sometimes binding to where I thought something would break. I removed the door panel and greased the tracks. Works as normal now.

 

[EB4X]

I assume this is drivers side.....I recently did this on my 95.....I just replaced the whole assembly..... about $40 off ebay free shipping....only one seller had it and here he is: (** States only for 4-door.....so if you have 2 door sport yours is different!)
Ford Mazda Pickup Truck Mercury SUV Drivers Front Power Window Regulator & Motor | eBay

It's a bit of pain.....more than my WJ Jeep ones in that you have to drill out OEM rivets (replace with bolts)
Here's link on procedure....good ole 1aa videos...

 

[CDW6212R]

Have a stock 1995 Explorer. Drivers Window motor works but the window doesn't move with the Motor. I can bring the window down by hand and with a little help/persuasion can bring the window back up. Any ideas on cause and how to fix.

Other question, the 1995 Explorer is an XLT 2WD. How hard/difficult is it to convert it to 4WD?

Thanks!

Welcome, and save the original motor assembly if you can. The OEM motor should last the life of the vehicle, the plastic gear components are built to be the weakest links. The assembly should be usable if the motor works fine, and the center post inside the gear section, is securely attached. The rest is replaceable. The three pucks always go bad with age, plan to need those absolutely. The other gears may be worn also, clean that all out well and see what shape things are in there. Don't refill the gear section with too much grease, notice how muck air volume is inside when you open that up. The proper amount of grease is about half of what will fit inside, maybe a little more.

 

[dasarge]

In my opinion, it's not at all practical to convert to 4WD, there's the drivetrain (transfer case, front differential, drive shaft, axle shafts, wheel hubs, (maybe) front shocks, then sensors and wiring and module and dash switch and bezel with the hole for the switch... and probably more I'm not thinking of at the moment (did 2WD versions come with skid plates and exhaust shields?), on a vehicle not worth much over $1000 now (depending on condition).

I suppose if you have the free time and a donor vehicle it wouldn't be as bad but then they're old used parts. I'd sooner sell it and buy one with 4WD or really a 5.0L with AWD.

Window motor has probably worn out plastic pucks in its gear housing so it slips internally. Disassembly would reveal that, you can replace those pucks with a Dorman kit available at many auto parts stores or of course replace the whole motor assembly. You may want to lube the window track too as it may have been extra resistance that chewed the pucks up.

There's probably video(s) somewhere on youtube about this.


I think this is the right pucks but you'd want to take yours apart to verify that's all that is wrong:
https://www.autozone.com/interior/w.../dorman-window-regulator-gear-plug/426078_0_0
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-74410-Window-Regulator-Gear/dp/B000CO96SG

Of course it's possible there is something else wrong after 24 years, worn out motor for example.

How hard is it to remove the motor on the drivers side,

 

[koda2000]

How hard is it to remove the motor on the drivers side,

If your motor runs but the glass doesn't move lubrication isn't your issue. It's your "pucks". While I suggest you lube the window channels with silicon once in a while I've never found that greasing the regulator parts is necessary. They function on nylon slides, so grease shouldn't be necessary, still it couldn't hurt I suppose.

I had to replace the driver's front window regulator (with motor) on my daughter's '00 Mountaineer. I don't know if the window motor can be removed w/out removing the regulator. I believe the motor is attached to the regulator by 3 small screws. Perhaps the motor can be removed without removing the regulator, but be very careful if you attempt this as the window glass becomes a guillotine once the window motor is detached from the regulator. Also the edges of the door holes are extremely sharp. I use several strips of black Gorilla tape to hold the glass up when I replaced my regulator.

If you remove the regulator there are 4-5 large rivets that you have to punch and drill out. This is a PITA but can be done. It took me about 3-4 hours to replace the regulator. I replaced the rivets with short 1/4X20 bolts and nyloc nuts.

 

[CDW6212R]

The motors all have three bolts holding them into the regulator. I think they all have a couple of bolts not having holes to see them, but there will be a dimple in the door where you drill access holes.

It's not hard to R&R the front motors at all, just disconnect the motor wire connector, and the three bolts. Lining up the holes to install the bolts back in will take a couple of minutes. Find the three bolts of the motor by reaching through the speaker hole and feel them. Then you can work out where the access holes are for all three, drill a hole if needed where there isn't a hole. Typically the bolts will all be 8mm head style, so the holes only need to be big enough for a 8mm socket to go through. Use tape to hold each bolt in the socket to reinstall if needed. I usually can start the bolts by hand and also fish the socket to them without tape etc.

Don't tighten the three bolts of the motor as soon as possible, leave them all barely all the way in(not snug), and then wiggle the whole motor to be sure it is seated properly. Wiggle it and push it against the regulator well, before snugging the bolts and tightening them.

 

[dasarge]

The motors all have three bolts holding them into the regulator. I think they all have a couple of bolts not having holes to see them, but there will be a dimple in the door where you drill access holes.

It's not hard to R&R the front motors at all, just disconnect the motor wire connector, and the three bolts. Lining up the holes to install the bolts back in will take a couple of minutes. Find the three bolts of the motor by reaching through the speaker hole and feel them. Then you can work out where the access holes are for all three, drill a hole if needed where there isn't a hole. Typically the bolts will all be 8mm head style, so the holes only need to be big enough for a 8mm socket to go through. Use tape to hold each bolt in the socket to reinstall if needed. I usually can start the bolts by hand and also fish the socket to them without tape etc.

Don't tighten the three bolts of the motor as soon as possible, leave them all barely all the way in(not snug), and then wiggle the whole motor to be sure it is seated properly. Wiggle it and push it against the regulator well, before snugging the bolts and tightening them.

And make sure I use gorilla tape to keep the window up, don't need a Guillotine on the arm. Right

 

[masospaghetti]

^^ Agree that your "pucks" are the problem (Dorman 74410 regulator gear plugs is what you need to repair).

I've had to do this on all three of my Explorers, about five windows total. Not hard to do especially the second time. Don't let the drilling scare you as the dimple makes it easy and it takes all of about 10 seconds.

 

[CDW6212R]

And make sure I use gorilla tape to keep the window up, don't need a Guillotine on the arm. Right

The 2nd gen Explorers don't have that danger, these regulators are not coiled with spring pressure.

 

[koda2000]

The 2nd gen Explorers don't have that danger, these regulators are not coiled with spring pressure.

True, but w/out the motor holding the regulator up (or with the motor removed from the regulator) there's nothing holding the glass up.