Stock sub ohms/ voice coils | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Stock sub ohms/ voice coils

^^Nice!! What year is the Vette? When you say 6 months old, was that 6 months since you got it or 6 months old period?

As for the Explorer's, are the stock speakers 5x7 or 6x8?
 



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Thanks! Not sure what exact size the Explorer has stock. I think they are 6x8's. I know that Crutchfield says they fit perfectly and they are normally right on with what fits.

It is a 2008. it was "born" on 2/21/2008. We did the work in October 08 so it was a bit more than 6 months old. My buddy who helped me did his 06 the year before so I was confident we would get it done. He actually made the first adapter to fit a 6.5" component along with a tweeter adapter for the C6. He now sells these adapters so I was in good hand.:thumbsup:
 






Stock speakers are 6x8's in almost all Fords. If the speakers themselves aren't 6x8, the plates they are mounted to are.

If you've got a factory DVC sub, and want to drop in a replacement without using a different amp, the safe and best option is a DVC sub, and one with the same impedance as the factory one. If it's dual 2 ohm voice coils, throwing a dual 4, 6, or 8 ohm sub in there isn't going to improve things much.

Surely JL makes a DVC 8"...but maybe not a shallow enough one.
 






Sorry, i didn't take pictures with a tape measure. . . .it would have helped everyone.

To provide a reference what i mounted was a TS-SW251, 10" Cutout hole: 9"3/8, Depth: 3"1/8, Cone Diam: 8.23"

The OEM sub sat in a depression, recessed into the box. Based on the Pioneer info, i'm guessing its about 9"3/8 on ridge. The lip was about .5-.75" wide all the way around.
The depth if remember correctly was about 4" and something sorry, i'd want to say 4.5"??? can't be sure, the factory sub was bolted to the back side.
Measured OEM, 3 1/8"

In Post 14 i have a picture of the enclosure with the lip trimmed already:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246610

i'll see if i can find it. .. . it should be somewhere????
 






I'm going to go with the Dayton DVC sub and place the JL 8W0 up for sale once I complete the install. It was a bit pricey but it *should* be a decent match to the factory amp and enclosure size. The factory opening may need to be enlarged a bit but if jrford got a 10" to work I'm sure removing 1/8" from the mounting hole should not be a big deal.

I will be replacing the 4 door speakers this weekend and the sub next weekend. I will take lots of pictures and provide all the enclosure specs to help the next person looking to do this. Thanks to everyone who answered my multiple questions.
-Mike
 






jr, I'm going to go through your thread again. I think I may want to go the route of by-passing the factory amp....more reading to do. And thanks everybody for all the info.
 






I completed my install today. First I must say I apologize for the lack of pictures. I can't seem to locate my camera. I looked for it for about an hour and finally gave up.

This is probably the easiest car to take apart that I have ever owned. It took me about an hour to replace all 4 door speakers. The only reason it took an hour was that I didn't secure the extra wire to the speakers so the windows would catch the wire on the way down. So basically, I did the job twice.

The factory sub came out easily once I removed all the trim. My car is new so the seat belt T-50's came out easily. I can now confirm that the factory sub in a 2010 Limited is a 1.2 ohm dual voice coil sub. I replaced this with a 2 ohm DVC Dayton NS210-44 8" sub. The new sub mounting flange was slightly larger than the factory sub so I had to widen the mounting hole a tad. I used a dremel and a sanding drum and just wore away some material, test fit and removed more material until the sub was a snug fit. I used speaker gasket foam and placed the sub back in the enclouse. I used the factory screws and they mated perfectly to the factory holes. Once I got the new sub tightened up I sealed the hole in the back on the enclosure that used to have the rear screw that went into the back of the factory sub. I just a small piece of steel and expoxied it to the rear enclosure to assure a perfect seal. I then remounted the factory enclosure and tested it. Right away there was a huge difference.

The bass was much less sloppy and boomy. The output is down just a slight bit but the bass is tighter and much cleaner. The door speakers I used are JL Audio TR570-CXi and they are a vast improvement over the factory "Premiere" speakers that were installed in my Ex. These are a perfect fit and match the 4 Ohm rating of the factory speakers.

All told I spent 159.00 for the 2 sets of main speakers and 99.00 for the Dayton sub and I think I now have a system I can live with. About 2.5 hours of work in total but I have installed many car systems so I would think a novice would get it done in 3-4 hours, tops.

The sub mounting hole is about 7.15" in diameter. The Dayton was 7.35". The depth of the factory enclosure is 4.25" and the Dayton is only 2.5" deep. I used factory wiring adapters for the door speakers and I had to cut the wires at the sub but I was able to get the Dayton connected without adding any additional wire.

In my opinion this mod was well worth the 259.00 and 2.5 hours to install it.:thumbsup:

BTW, I now have a brand new JL 8W0 SVC sub that I just purchased for sale. If somone wants it let me know. It is not even open and still in the original shipping box. I'll take 99.00 plus shipping. PM me if you want it. I can take Paypal but if you use a CC I need to pass along the paypal fee which i believe is 2.5%.
 






Mike, I'm glad everything worked out for you. Sounds like you have a decent set up now.

Jim, did I read right that you have a factory Audiophile deck after all your upgrades and such?
 






Jim, did I read right that you have a factory
Audiophile deck after all your upgrades and such?

Yep, OEM 6CD Audiophile, started with a basic. I have steering wheel controls and the rear DVD player, if it where only Steering wheel i'd be very tempted to go aftermarket HU. Stock HU works fine for what we use it for.
 






i know this thread is way outdated but i noticed after reading that you guys were saying the sub is dual 2 ohm but only has 1 pos and 1 neg speaker wire?
 






Only 5 wires (Pos ; Neg ; turn-on; Batt; Gnd) run to the stock sub amp from the Radio.
From the Amp to the Sub speaker there are 4 wires, i would assume L+/- and R+/-
this is for the 3rd gens if it matters.
 






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