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Stripped drag link to pitman arm stud

Explorin'VA

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City, State
P-twn
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 xlt
I was in the process of installing a dropped pitman arm but the puller I used mangled the threads on the drag link stud. I could not get the pitman off so im still using the original. Would it be safe to get a die kit and re thread the stud and put a lock nut on it? Or is it necessary to re use the crown nut?
 


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Number4

"I'm counting to 3, then I'm getting your dad."
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Woodstock, GA
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04 Ford Explorer 4.6l
Because of the constant movement, you really want the castle nut with cotter pin. It'll keep the nut from backing off. Lock nut with lock tight will/may back off over time.

You could use a lock/crush nut with some blue lock tite, then double nut it. But I'd only want to do this on a temporary basis.

I'm not really sure if it'd even come off without the nut, but I prefer the tires go the direction I'm telling them to.
 




trashtruck

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capital district, ny
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1992 explorer xlt 4x4
while re-threading the stud, how would you keep it from spinning without damaging anything?
 




Explorin'VA

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'94 xlt
It was totally unsafe but I clamped vice grips on the stud with the cotter through the hole and drove down the road to harbor freight. I doubt that the vice grips would have held up in the case that the pitman arm broke free while driving, but luckily its seized so tightly that I made it safely. I bought a 45 pc tap and die set, but the die stock was too long and hit the pitman arm when I tried to turn it. So I decided to try spinning the (circular) die with vice grips but the die snapped in half. At this point I realized I needed a hex die, but unfortunately I couldn't find anywhere that had a m14x1.5 hex die so I had to order one with next day shipping. Since it's the weekend it won't be sent until Monday. I was able to tap the castle nut (which was also damaged) so it will match the m14x1.5 threads on the stud.

The stud is locked in place on the drag link so it shouldn't spin when I re thread it. Although I planned on re threading it with the pitman arm still on, since I only need to repair the threads to the point where the castle nut snugs tight on the pitman.

The lesson I learned out of all this is if you beat the crap out of the pitman arm to remove it, at least leave the nut on the top of the stud to prevent mushrooming the threads.
 




FR-425

Used to be a road here.
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1994 Explorer Limited
Are you aware that tie rods for these trucks are 28.99 for the right and 15.99 for the left?

Seems like a lot of mess'n about for $30 part.
 




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