strongest U joint

[bigbzc]

I forgot to mention that the front diff also has an Aussie locker which is the reason the stock joint dont hold up. I guess once I get a cage in it I'll just see how the Precision joints hold

 

[4x4junkie]

So that is how you judge a u-joint's strength, just by what it looks like??

Unless those Precisions are also cold-forged they won't be stronger, but good luck.

You can always spend mucho money and get CTM etc, but I don't even know if they make 'em small enough for the D-35 shafts.

~Mark

D35 = D44. Same size shaft, same u-joint. But like I mentioned earlier, they're kindof pointless without alloy shafts.

 

[bigbzc]

So that is how you judge a u-joint's strength, just by what it looks like??

Unless those Precisions are also cold-forged they won't be stronger, but good luck.


D35 = D44. Same size shaft, same u-joint. But like I mentioned earlier, they're kindof pointless without alloy shafts.

Nice hatin'....
All I simply said was that they look stock and the stock ones aren't worth ****... I dont remeber reading anyone stating that they were cold forged until I said they look like stock replacements...

 

[Naasau]

... he said it in his first post.

Spicer 5-760X. They have a cold-forged cross and are about $25-30 each.

 

[bigbzc]

... he said it in his first post.

My bad, I was so busy when I read that all I saw was the brand and part number. Heres a question, the joints that I have installed are forged and case hardened. I assume that the cold forge is stronger and understand that by freezing or cyro-dipping parts bring the molecules tighter, but what is the process of cold forging? Just trying to figure out how it makes things stronger...

 

[Naasau]

Some of the specifics of metallurgy escape me, but I do know that metal strength has to do with 'grain size' every bit as much as density. The idea is that the the longer a metal is hot (semi-liquid) the more time the molecules in a specific area have to arrange themselves in a perfectly organized crystalline lattice, called a grain. The larger the grains in any metal, the bigger the chance of shearing and splitting along the borders or with the grain's own patterned structure. (This is why people make exotic metals like powered steel, where hundreds, if not thousands of pounds of force are used to bind independent, microscopic entities to each other)

So, with that in mind, I would assume that cold forgint seeks to keep the grain size very very small, maximizing the strength of the alloy, while maintaining ductility (a really hard 'stiff' metal would just shatter under vibration).

Like I said, I'm no expert, but I think I got the basics right for you.

 

[Naasau]

Found some specifics now that I'm in front of a real computer, rather than my cell. It looks like the idea of cold forging is really cold working (I didn't know that the two were synonymous). This is a process wherein the crystalline structure is deformed, and the grains stretched and 'dislocated', this increases the tensile strength of the metal, and decreases the ductility.

I checked these articles for conformation with some of my reference manuals, and they seem to be pretty good summations, if you're interested. Here's info on Forging, and here's some about Work Hardening.

 

[bigbzc]

Awesome info! I actually learned something. Thanks guys. Although being the type that doesn't fix something till it breaks, I'm gonna keep with the Precision joints till I tear em up, (plus chicks dig it when I break something lol) But then will definately try the Spicer brand. Only wish someone would tell me where they got their's and not give me a link to Google... Seriously, If I wanted to Google something I wouldn't have joined the forum...

 

[tweakedlogic]

there were at least 5 links in google where you could buy the for as little as $20. more if you click on "shopping"

 

[bigbzc]

there were three links in google where you could buy the for as little as $20. more if you click on "shopping"

Right, like I said, I was hoping for someone to tell me a site that they trust or have used a few time and like.

 

[Naasau]

I go with RockAuto (they give forum members a discount) or summit racing for most of my stuff.

 

[bigbzc]

I go with RockAuto (they give forum members a discount) or summit racing for most of my stuff.

THanks, I'm a Summit customer too but I couldn't find the Spicer joint. I'll take a look at the other site

 

[Naasau]

RockAuto is mainly for OEM parts and the like, but I've found that they can have a suprising selection of atermarket components once you get the hang of their odd catalogue.

 

[bigbzc]

RockAuto is mainly for OEM parts and the like, but I've found that they can have a suprising selection of atermarket components once you get the hang of their odd catalogue.

Yeah I didn't see any Spicer joints but the Precision that I have are a "best seller" on the site

 

[Maniak]

THanks, I'm a Summit customer too but I couldn't find the Spicer joint. I'll take a look at the other site

We have a new vendor here that also carries them..
EastCoastGearSupply.com
Free shipping on your first order from them too. As per their thread.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2975585#post2975585

Page where I found the u-joints.. $28 seems to be the going "good price" for those u-joints. So, Its really up to customer service and shipping/tax costs.

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-6317903-dana-30-dana-44-u-joint-spicer-5-760x.html

 

[bigbzc]

We have a new vendor here that also carries them..
EastCoastGearSupply.com
Free shipping on your first order from them too. As per their thread.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2975585#post2975585

Page where I found the u-joints.. $28 seems to be the going "good price" for those u-joints. So, Its really up to customer service and shipping/tax costs.

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-6317903-dana-30-dana-44-u-joint-spicer-5-760x.html

Looks great, thanks alot!