Stuck fan clutch nut

[CDW6212R]

Have you removed the bottom four bolts, the vertical four that go through the pan? There are two dowels in the cover which force you to pull the cover straight forward/out. That's part of why the oil pan is a big issue to R&R the timing cover. I can't help with the wire though.

 

[jtre]

I did remove those 4 bolts. Its moving forward maybe a few mm but feels like something else is holding it in place. If I use the rubber mallet where do I strike it

 

[CDW6212R]

With the bolts out, it's usually the pan and dowels that hold it. I'd concentrate gentle prying or tapping around the bottom and up about 4" or so.

 

[jtre]

would using a piece of 2x4 to tap it down there crack the cover? Cant fit my mallet down there and get a good blow with the rad in the way

 

[CDW6212R]

Yeah, a piece of wood is a great buffer to soften any blows. You just want to get it to let go all the way around, get it to move evenly out from the block.

 

[jtre]

ok, ill keep wacking and hopefully it will come off with some more "encouragement"

 

[jtre]

no dice, dont want to break anything and I am whacking it fairly hard with the wood/rubber mallet. where can I pry on it?

 

[CDW6212R]

The cover is AL so don't pry too hard with the edge of a screw driver etc. The block can take the prying, just work your way around to get it to move evenly. If the gap doesn't grow or stay open, something might still be attached. The gasket won't stop any decent force from pulling it out.

 

[jtre]

I got it off with a good bit of gentle prying and a good yank. looks like a TON of RTV was used at the bottom of the cover at some point. It didnt feel like I broke anything, so thats good, are those dowels made of cast iron in the block? Also, timing marks are dead on but the left side of the chain has quite a bit of slop, but the right is tight. have yet to measure deflection

 

[CDW6212R]

Sounds good. Someone used a lot of RTV trying to seal the oil pan to block and cover. That's the area you need to be very very slow when assembling it all. Clean everything super well, wipe all oil away several times with rag and brake cleaner. If any oil remains between the parts, it will likely leak/seep there.

The dowels should be tool steel and have a seam in them, those I've seen. The fit isn't tight or doesn't have to be, clean those with wire brush if needed.

 

[1998Exp]

You don't need to tighten these three bolts -- they just have to engage enough threads to pull evenly.

 

[1998Exp]

Regardless of the exact amount of slack, I would replace the chain while there - and probably the gears too. Cheap insurance.
Resealing the cover is going to be an "interesting" experience. I had zero luck with the thin paper gasket made by Felpro (and others). Just a bit of distortion on the mating faces, and it won't get compressed at all. Ended using a metal gasket (hard to find) and RTV on both its faces. The bolts may need re-torquing after they settle.
Whatever method you are using to seal the bottom to the oil pan, be very methodical, or it will leak oil from there.
The dowels have a bit of taper at the end, but nevertheless will fight you when trying to reinstall. Some just got rid of them. I used the two bottom cover bolts to (very gently) pull the cover over them.
You will need to block the crank from turning when torquing the bolt. Strap wrenches don't work. Some use a screwdriver stuck in the flex plate teeth - which I find a bit crude. I attached a steel bar to the pulley (using the threaded pulling holes) and supported it over the frame.
Good Luck!

 

[CDW6212R]

You can also buy a tool which engages the starter teeth, it grabs at two points and has a handle, kind of like a seal puller tool in vague size/appearance. I have one I plan to use for my SOHC 4.0 work, I hope it works well.

 

[jtre]

Regardless of the exact amount of slack, I would replace the chain while there - and probably the gears too. Cheap insurance.
Resealing the cover is going to be an "interesting" experience. I had zero luck with the thin paper gasket made by Felpro (and others). Just a bit of distortion on the mating faces, and it won't get compressed at all. Ended using a metal gasket (hard to find) and RTV on both its faces. The bolts may need re-torquing after they settle.
Whatever method you are using to seal the bottom to the oil pan, be very methodical, or it will leak oil from there.
The dowels have a bit of taper at the end, but nevertheless will fight you when trying to reinstall. Some just got rid of them. I used the two bottom cover bolts to (very gently) pull the cover over them.
You will need to block the crank from turning when torquing the bolt. Strap wrenches don't work. Some use a screwdriver stuck in the flex plate teeth - which I find a bit crude. I attached a steel bar to the pulley (using the threaded pulling holes) and supported it over the frame.
Good Luck!

I just rotated the crank pulley until the two holes at the top were at the correct angle for me to put an extension in it and brace it against an accessory bracket

 

[jtre]

I am going to try the paper gasket since I cannot find the metal one, do you guys recommend the copper spray a gasket stuff (or other spray) to stick it on there? I have heard not to use RTV on paper gaskets

 

[CDW6212R]

The spray tack is likely what you mean as a gold spray. That's very good for the timing cover gasket, I've used that many times.

Be sure to use Ultra RTV on the corners of the cover and oil pan, plus along both sides of the pan gasket. RTV is great on almost anything.

 

[jtre]

The spray tack is likely what you mean as a gold spray. That's very good for the timing cover gasket, I've used that many times.

Be sure to use Ultra RTV on the corners of the cover and oil pan, plus along both sides of the pan gasket. RTV is great on almost anything.

looking at the cork pieces, it looks like it fits very weirdly on the pan. I have an oil pan gasket that I can cut to fit, would that be better than the cork?

 

[delexploder]

Yes ! cork sucks

 

[crunchie_frog]

I have done two of these and used the cork pieces and had no leaks/seeps. I cut the old silicone/rubber gasket on the engine block side with a sharp, wide, chisel and hammer and a box cutter to finish it off, and in the end, it was completely flush back to the engine block, careful not to damage/nick the oil pan. Used hi temp black RTV sealant. Kind of tricky, be sure these cork pieces stay in place when you are mating up the timing cover. Patience is your friend. On one of them I had to "rework". I don't see how a piece of the old silicone/rubber gasket would be any better. If you are very lucky, the old oil pan gasket stays in one piece.

 

[CDW6212R]

The original p[an gasket is best if it's cleaned and usable. Don't use cork, it will work if done right, but eventually cork will let oil seep right through it. RTV is perfectly fine to replace any cork material, such as on all intakes front and back. It only needs to be thick enough to be squished about an 1/8" at most.

The key is how clean you get the pan, block, gaskets, cover etc. Try to spend a lot of time slowly cleaning the pan and block, as much into the seam as you can reach.