stuck on my box...

[Saleen_SR71]

well i dont know if i should port the box im building or have it sealed... heres a template of what im looking at...

im thinking fiberglass front (i dont want a flat front, im going to curve it like a parabola), wood on the top, amps on top of the wood glassed in

im just stuck on the "if i port it" should i use shared air space, break them off in the middle and port it that way... and if its shared, circle or rectangle port. the hardest part ill have is tuning the box (never done it before)

so ported or sealed?
square port or circle port?

suggestions, comments all apreciated

 

[Mcane6]

whats going in it???

 

[Saleen_SR71]

oh yeah... 2 RE x.. 15's

and for whats going on it... US AMPS DE3000 and 4300X

 

[Bobby Locs]

With my experince with most boxxes, they have always sounded better sealed.

I'm guessing your haveing them fire up towards the roof.

 

[Saleen_SR71]

no towards the rear..

i also heard the sealed has produced the best SPL #'s

ported would be nice, but as i dont know how to tune it, i may be better off with it sealed.

but then as my fiberglassing skills are at beginner, i will probably end up braking the glassed part due to it not being thick enough

 

[Mcane6]

http://www.cardomain.com/id/hydroxy

Check this page out. This was hydoxy's box until he wrecked his X so i bought it from him. But it may give u some ideas with the fiberglass. I like the glass look its different.

Good luck on the box though get some pics when u finish it up.

 

[Brandons]

That enclosure looks really awsome. I would never want one for mine, since i put too much crap in the back, but it definately looks wicked. How did he do it?

 

[Mcane6]

yeah im waiting til i grad. from high school to put in the amp rack B/C i use that space to put all my baseball equipment. And if i have anything else i just pack the back seats full with crap.

Same way Saleen is frame the back and bottom and then glass the rest

 

[Saleen_SR71]

yeah this is hydroxy's frame type is what i was shooting for, but i also have to frame the top as i will put an amp rack on the top.

in my head are crap loads of measurements... its tearing me apart... the template is no help as it is in 1/16th inch cardboard instead of 3/4" mdf or 3/4" any material

im getting the actual measurements on paper now, and calculating it is stressing... all the 3/4" i have to compinsate for is killing me, plus the fact that i dont want to remove my current box and go subless for a week or 3.

but once that box is in... i doubt it going anywhere if someone trys to steal it

 

[Saleen_SR71]

oh yeah im leaning more toward the seperated, sealed sub enclosure now, still with angled subs tough, im still a little undecided on how i want the front to be, but ill get it eventually

 

[Mcane6]

My box is seperated into 3 sections: one for the 2 subs on each side and then one for the mid 3 on top.

It takes bout 5- 10 mins to get my box in and plus i have to take everything out of my car and fold down the back seats. Its a pain.

 

[TeamPwnageBrad]

no towards the rear..

i also heard the sealed has produced the best SPL #'s

ported would be nice, but as i dont know how to tune it, i may be better off with it sealed.

but then as my fiberglassing skills are at beginner, i will probably end up braking the glassed part due to it not being thick enough

wherever you heard sealed produces the highest SPL is incorrect. a ported box has an average gain of 3dB over a sealed box running the same subs/wattage. i compete and the ONLY time my teammate and i have ever used a sealed box, was to test the resonant frequency of my explorer. it peaked at 51 hz, like almost every explorer out there. If you tune that thing low, it is going to still sound great, and will hit the lows like no other.

 

[maresca]

i dont know about sealed creating the best spl levels. my last box was tuned to about 50 hz and hit 140 with 1 audiobahn in 5.5 cu ft. i do know a great program to use to figure out tuning is called WINISD. its a free program.

 

[jukejohn]

You hear sound because air moves... if you seal the box, the cone will NOT move as much. The other side of the coin, you might want to stop the cone from moving too far. A port is a better option. Research building speakers, or put in an opening with a way to cover it, and try it both ways.

 

[Saleen_SR71]

ill check out that program later, im hella tired from Hot Import Nights

i would love to have it ported... but im still stuck, circle, rectangle, shared or seperated...

 

[expo5.0]

ok, you do not want to install those subs and that amp sealed. PERIOD.

you should do one large shared airspace, and one large port.

for simplicities sake and othe considerations your port should be retangular (slot)

hit me up on aim at wattsupcustoms if you get a chance, or ask other questions here.

I can help you tune it if needed.

 

[Saleen_SR71]

alright, how do i tune it?

p.s. im going to look for that software also

*edit* they dont have RE subs... i downloaded the beta version, its too confusing

 

[Saleen_SR71]

i take it no one knows how to tune a box? i mean i could build it port it, but tuning it... thats another story

help anyone?

 

[expo5.0]

i need to know a lot of other info.

how much space you have to give up for it. what bias you want it to have toward sq/spl etc.. many little details.

 

[Wagonized]

whoa whoa whoa...i leave for a bit and you guys are running rampant with misinformation.

#1 first and formost nice choice in subs

#2 those subs shine in ported enclosures...id say go with 5 cubes each

#3 always go ported unless the sub you're using is specifically designed for sealed use. Ported boxes are not only louder but are tuneable obviously. Here's a link for port design...enjoy (2nd one down "calculate your vent length")
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31