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Stuck stripped diff bolt

Bdgrbb

Elite Explorer
Joined
August 24, 2015
Messages
18
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6
Location
Bakersfield, CA
City, State
Bakersfield, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Exploder 4x4 JP TRIB
I’m in a pickle. Went to go do axle bearings and seals and the bolt that keeps the retaining pin for my rear axle shafts is stuck and was stripped. Need tips/tricks!!! Please help TIA
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Is it stuck as in will not move or is it stripped and bolt pin just turns in circles or is the hex damaged and socket turns?
The bolt normally breaks just above the pin portion and then with small pick/screwdriver the remaining can be backed out.
 






Head is stripped and was to begin with. My 8mm socket got a lil bite but no dice. Leaving shortly to go buy an extractor set. Fingers crossed
 






It should only be held in by blue LocTite. A small 1/4" drive breaker bar is used there with a quality tight fitting name brand short socket due to clearance preventing damage to hex head.
Apply some heat to the carrier along the thread line. You whack the breaker bar with the palm of your hand to shock it loose.
 






short time: Get a sacrificial socket 1 size down (not a cheap one, will just split ) and tap it on, maybe file/dremel ead for workable fit. And if you can fit it, use impact driver instead of ratchet at least for initial break.

medium time:can dremel cut a slot to make it a flat head.

long time : use the 8mm socket that tries. Drill through it, and the head of the bolt, and pin it with that drill bit.
 






Is it 8mm or 5/16?

Make sure your 6 point socket fits very very snug. Make sure you are using the correct size.. something tells me these are standard not metric but it’s been a minute since I had to deal with one

I like the idea of using the drill bit through the socket and bolt head, I have never tried that one
 






I managed to get the bolt out with a tight fitting short socket but now the big center pin is not budging. I tried persuading it from the top to no avail. On the YT video I watched it came out w a strong magnet, I don’t have one of those lol. Ideas?
 






Just realized the damn lock bolt broke off about half way. Now I have to remove a half broken bolt in a rearend that’s installed…
 






Just realized the damn lock bolt broke off about half way. Now I have to remove a half broken bolt in a rearend that’s installed…

Read post #2 again it happens about 15-20% of the time. Usually no big deal, there will be 2 or 3 threads of bolt still inside and will unscrew easily using a pick tool(s) or small screwdriver and a mirror to see where the best edge is to work on. The large pinion shaft through the differential must be centered so as not to preload the remaining pin preventing the turning of it. Spray with brake clean and air then follow up with your favorite flavor of weasel pi$$ and a little air to remove excess prior to removal.

Install a new pinion shaft and lock bolt pin when assembling.
 












I’ve drilled out the broken bolt section and my extractor won’t bite the remaining portion. But the interesting part is the fact I can see the drill bit has gone into the pin. I guess my only choice now is to try and drill out the pin to where I can clear the remaining bolt pieces. Anyone have a better idea???
 






A new center pin and lock bolt is cheaper than a diff carrier, and sorry no better ideas.
If the bolt threads are ok drilling out is the less time-consuming work.
 






I know that your past this part but sometimes instead of using a pic to turn the broke off bolt, the other half of the bolt might snag on the part still in differential. I would think that using heat on the carrier where the broke off bolt is still in the carrier would help release the lock-tight glue.
A press or air chisel might could be used to shear the bolt where it goes through the big pin. That's a hopeful thought if the bolt broke so easy in the first place. At some point the carrier will get damaged. At that point it can get really ugly trying to save the good housing and axles.
I had a 1992 7.5 Mustang pin that would not come out. I ended up swapping in a whole different differential assembly.
I hope your diffy is up on a work bench to deal with it.
 












I know that your past this part but sometimes instead of using a pic to turn the broke off bolt, the other half of the bolt might snag on the part still in differential. I would think that using heat on the carrier where the broke off bolt is still in the carrier would help release the lock-tight glue.
A press or air chisel might could be used to shear the bolt where it goes through the big pin. That's a hopeful thought if the bolt broke so easy in the first place. At some point the carrier will get damaged. At that point it can get really ugly trying to save the good housing and axles.
I had a 1992 7.5 Mustang pin that would not come out. I ended up swapping in a whole different differential assembly.
I hope your diffy is up on a work bench to deal with it.
Unfortunately the unit is still installed in the rig. I’ve been avoiding pulling the axle
 






I’ve begun to think drilling out the top portion of the top big pin to get to the point of being able to remove the pin bolt thing. I tried to get a bit started but it was a no go
 






The pin made of strong material. I drilled two holes beside the pin, get the bolt out, but the carrier is junk now.
Maybe you could dremel two smal cuts with a cutt-off wheel?
diff bolt.jpg
 






The pin made of strong material. I drilled two holes beside the pin, get the bolt out, but the carrier is junk now.
Maybe you could dremel two smal cuts with a cutt-off wheel?
View attachment 455670
I didn’t think about that. I think I will look into it. I think the only part still holding is the tail end of that bolt. Maybe I could try a tiny strong magnet?
 









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I’ve drilled out the broken bolt section and my extractor won’t bite the remaining portion. But the interesting part is the fact I can see the drill bit has gone into the pin. I guess my only choice now is to try and drill out the pin to where I can clear the remaining bolt pieces. Anyone have a better idea???

There is 2 or 3 threads of the bolt still inside attached to the pin unless they been drilled away now or the threads been hacked up. I did three or four of these in my day and they all break in the same location. Loosening bolt does not break them they get broken/fractured while in service from forces of the pinion shaft. This is where you find a small pocket/Stihl carb screwdriver then with the grinding wheel grind a tip to fit what is messed up now and unscrew the broken part out after centering pinion shaft.
 






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