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Sub and amp help for 04xlt

yep. if you have 2 4 ohm loads(which could be either 2 4 ohm subs or 1 dual voice coil sub with 2 4 ohm coils) and you wire them in parallel it will be a 2 ohm load on the amp. in series it would be 8 ohms.
 



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oops, forgot to add this. i believe agonz is saying get the L5 that has dual 4 ohm coils, that means you would wire it in parallel and the load would be 2 ohms maximising your amps output. if its a prebuilt box it should already be wired up inside so make sure you get the right one.
 






http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11761_Kicker+08TS10L54.html

this appears to be the right one, but.........

i checked all over to make sure this is the right one and its still super confusing to be honest. the people who make these websites dont understand car audio they just make websites so they put in the info they are told without any comprehension. if you buy one of those i highly suggest, no matter where you go to buy it, that you call them to place the order to double check that you are getting the right one.
 






You gotta wire the 4 ohm sub in parallel so... + to + and - to -. Then on the amp you'd bridged the channels and the amps ohms would be 2 and the subs would be 2 as well.
 












That amp n sub combo will go well together. But ya they do come prewired so when u get it check the wiring before u hook it up. Umm u should be fine w/ a 8awg wiring kit u can go 4awg if u wanted.
 












i usually do 8awg installs w/ 400-800rms systems. some ppl will rate stuff different. but when it comes down to it, it all depends on how many strands the wire has. brands like raptor, scosche, e2, and other off brands will have a lot less strands in there wires. i like to use kicker and rockford. but if u wanna save a few $$$ then welding wire works like a champ. anyways... for 4 awg id rate it to handle 1000-1800rms. but for this setup 4awg will work fine.
 






kicker has a real nice 8 gauge kit. for some reason they only rate it to 400watts but it has a 50 amp fuse so it should be fine. i made the mistake of buying one of those super cheapo flea market kits one time. it was a 4 gauge kit so the power wire was good enough so i still use that but i ended up replacing all my RCA's with rockfords.
 






ya ive seen ppl come in wanting a system installed and they have everything already. and when i look at there "4awg" wire its more like 8awg it just has a thicker surround... so i end up selling them some true 4awg :) anyways in my last post i meant to say 8awg will work just fine. but if someone decides to do a big SPL system theyll want some 1/0, 2/0, 3/0, or 4/0awg welding wire :) that chit is pure copper!
 






for some reason they only rate it to 400watts but it has a 50 amp fuse so it should be fine.

i was actually thinking the fuse was a deciding factor, since it will only allow so much current through it.. now the 8awg wiring kit i got has a 40 amp fuse - but the 240w rms amp i have only has a 30 amp.. so obviously the wire itself has the potential to provide more power than that particular amp will allow..

off the top of your head, do you know roughly how many watts rms an 8awg wire w/ a 40 amp fuse would allow to an amp?
 






the simple calculation is watts= amps x volts. so 40amps X 14.4 volts = 576 watts

when you get into more powerful systems the voltage drop from the battery to the amp becomes a bigger deal. the bigger the wire the less resistance so the less drop in voltage from one end to the other. what you have is perfectly fine.


but yea agonz, the 4 gauge wire that came in my original kit is hardly any bigger than good 8 gauge, it just has a super thick insulation. i will be replacing it soon, along with 12 gauge speaker wire to all the doors! plus im going to dynamat the whole car and put some sound dedener in a few spots. high class baby
 






but yea agonz, the 4 gauge wire that came in my original kit is hardly any bigger than good 8 gauge, it just has a super thick insulation. i will be replacing it soon, along with 12 gauge speaker wire to all the doors! plus im going to dynamat the whole car and put some sound dedener in a few spots. high class baby


youll have fun dynamating :) it can be a PITA... i dynamatted my hatch and roof sounds nice i want to add an extra layer for when i get the BTL installed. i also want to dynamat my doors too but wont til this summer when i gets more moneys! :)
 






the money is whats holding me back as well. being in school is lame. plus i dont have a job right now so yeeaaaaaa. i'm going to get 2 100sq ft rolls of stuff thats like dyna mat, just a different brand. much cheaper. i think its $130 per roll. so yea, thats going everywhere i can put it. plus the sound deadener everywhere possible along the bottom and on the firewall and in the doors over top of the dynamat. it should quiet things down big time. i dont know if i will do the roof or not. i probably will if its not too hard to get apart. i dont want to ruin my liner tho.
 












I, too, use the 3rd row on a regular basis and need a system with as little real estate space as possible. Here's what I came up with. The sound is just right with the MB Quart comp at each door.

CIMG3157.jpg


CIMG3156.jpg
 






I agree with iehungand he has a nice set up too. Ditch the mind rattling, overrated L5(and L7 imo) and go with something like a JL audio W3 where you get not just the mirror shaking lows but every bass aspect up to your mids. Pair it with a good amp like a hifonics and wire to 4 ohms and you shall have nice, clean & clear bass. I have personally ran several of the pioneer premier 12's and have been very pleased with just one on a 1200 watt mono block from performance teknique.
 






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