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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Probably will need a new MAF, maybe a bigger fuel pump too if yours is stock.
If you have access to 93 octane fuel I recommend that.
you will probably need water methanol injection if you dont have a liquid intercooler.
I do use 93 now
I use a real walbro 255mph @120psi ....before the in tank regulator which makes my fuel pressure 69 at the rail no matter what
The water methanol injection is where I have choices
I was thinking a 3psi adjustable Hobbs switch
A single nozzle before the supercharger
What do you recommend
I do use 93 now
I use a real walbro 255mph @120psi ....before the in tank regulator which makes my fuel pressure 69 at the rail no matter what
The water methanol injection is where I have choices
I was thinking a 3psi adjustable Hobbs switch
A single nozzle before the supercharger
What do you recommend
Everyone has there own preference and that is cool because that means there will be more data on what works and what does not.
I use a snow performance kit and controller that is triggered off the MAF sensor, when the maf hits a certain voltage the water methanol starts spraying and ramps up to 100% duty cycle at another maf volt set point. I read some where that roots style superchargers are commonly used with this type of setup over a pressure switch. I believe they also stated that turbos worked better with pressure switches. I think it was on Snow Performance's website.
Nice, I would think that 10lbs of boost might be too much for that charger idk will be hot...ive been hunting around for those and found alot but they were mostly blown idk where the weakest point will be on the motor but at 10psi the compression ratio is going to be way high like 15:1 definitely going to need high octane to prevent preignition and going to need special headgaskets and ignition tuning as far as cooling goes idk if you want methanol because u wont be using pump gas I'm assuming it wouldn't do any good depending on the tune. Idk I havent read the whole thread good stuff though. Maybe just go like 7psi no methanol or maf ECT. I would like to see it at 10psi on a quarter mile though!
Everyone has there own preference and that is cool because that means there will be more data on what works and what does not.
I use a snow performance kit and controller that is triggered off the MAF sensor, when the maf hits a certain voltage the water methanol starts spraying and ramps up to 100% duty cycle at another maf volt set point. I read some where that roots style superchargers are commonly used with this type of setup over a pressure switch. I believe they also stated that turbos worked better with pressure switches. I think it was on Snow Performance's website.
Yes, spray before supercharger and it will cool that too, and seal up any leakage between the supercharger rotors.
Spray before the throttle plate and you dont need an extra solenoid, just keep the nozzle above the bottle of water methanol or it will gravity feed and empty your tank. Also the pump should be below the WM bottle, and with in 2 feet of it if I remember correctly.
I went to try to find snow performance's website and it isn't working correctly, may be a fake site? Maybe they were sold or bought out?
Maybe google has the corona virus? LOL. weird.
Also I see some companies say dont use any other windshield washer fluid than blue if you use washer fluid. They have their reasons I am sure.
But... I have been using the negative 25 degree orange rainx for a couple years and have had no problems at all.
The -25 degree rainx is 40% methanol and 60% water and works for great washer fluid too. I read their MSDS sheets to find the methanol content.
Watch out because there is another orange RainX sold at walmart that is only -20 degree rainx, it has less methanol so it can be less effective as a washer fluid and W/M fluid. You want to stick with one brand and % of methanol because it effects the A/F mixture. I had to scale back my MAF transfer function in certain areas to correct my A/F after adding the W/M system.
I recommend a slot style maf because they are so common these days. I use Ford OEM and the larger the housing it is in the more airflow it can measure. There is also an adaptor for switching from the original maf connector to the slot style. What ever size tube your current maf is in now, you want to go bigger in inside diameter. Slot style MAF sensors from 2005 to 2010 work great, stay away from 2011 or higher because they out put a frequency instead of a variable voltage.
What size maf housing do you have now?
4 OD Slot Style MAF Mass Air Flow Housing air straightener for VW Audi 102mm | eBay
Thats a link to a round maf housing that is 4 inches or 102mm in diameter, they have 3,3.25,3.5,3.75,4 etc etc. The larger the inside diameter the more air flow it can measure. Go to big and you lose a little resolution, Im not sure what size you would need without having datalogs of the 9lbs of boost pulley on there.
The other option is go with a 90mm Lightning MAF, a lot of people had good luck with that setup. Its not slot style though so not my favorite option. Your best bet is to ask your tuner (Lasota) what he recommends since he has to tune the thing.
Ditto, that 90mm MAF size is a great place to upgrade to for most mild boost levels. You're right to plan for the meth injection. It's not critical for the boost near where you are now and lower, but any higher and it needs it or an intercooler.
I haven't learned enough about slot MAF's to have any clue about their advantages. I thought it was that they can be moved to a larger tube/pipe easily, while a normal MAF is a set size and cost for each size or level. If an SCT 90mm MAF is okay for my one application, I might prefer that type. I have one I got ages ago, I forgot the model, 2600 maybe.
I have an old SC intercooler stored in my shed if it has any use, I got it in the early 2000's aiming for a turbo on a 302 for a different car.
I ran a Kenne Bell 2.2L Blowzilla/Flowzilla combo with ported lower intake and heads at 16 psi with 42lb injectors on my 5.0L for several years. The 47lb injectors should be more than enough. Are the 47#'ers already on the engine? If not then the MAF will need to be recalibrated but this can be done with the tune. The KB blowers are twin screw designs and are more efficient than Roots blowers. I could run 8-10 psi with no cooling measures as long as the tune accounted for the increased intake air temps. At 9.5 psi with a Roots I would be somewhat concerned about detonation without cooling. If you aren't goming to run an aggressive tune then you might not need any.
I started out injecting alcohol for cooling and it worked good. Over time me and my Mustang buddies came to realize it was better to just use straight water for cooling. The reasons were water was more effective at lowering temperature because it absorbs more energy flashing from liquid to a vapor than alcohol. Think of how much quicker alcohol evaporates than water and this is why water only is more effective. Second is gasoline has higher specific energy than alcohol. It generates more power at combustion. Replacing gasoline with alcohol lowers power output. Alcohol does increase octane levels to some extent so it has a benefit there. Lastly, spraying alcohol is not tracked by the computer so it can't manage A/F ratios as accurately when spraying alcohol into the intake track unmetered. This was something I just never liked about using alcohol. Also, it takes just a fine spray of water to be effective so a bottle of water will last for quite a while.
Do you know what compression ratio you are running? This has a big impact on what boost levels you can safely run. You should get a larger MAF. For the displacement you are running along with stock heads, throttle body etc. you don't have to go crazy on MAF size. Are you running a stock throttle body? If you are think about upgrading it too. Using a small throttle body makes buying a large MAF fairly ineffective.
Yes, spray before supercharger and it will cool that too, and seal up any leakage between the supercharger rotors.
Spray before the throttle plate and you dont need an extra solenoid, just keep the nozzle above the bottle of water methanol or it will gravity feed and empty your tank. Also the pump should be below
I found spraying after the blower was more effective than before it. The mist hitting the hotter air coming directly out of the blower made it flash more effectively and efficiently than before the blower. I am not sure how the Roots blower on Donalds engine is configured. Maybe he can't inject after the blower.
The problem with injecting before the blower is it is cooling so many other components besides the intake air. You can't inject enough water to cool down massive heat sinks like a blower. The temperature of the blower is far less important than the temperature of the air going into the cylinders. Only so much water can be injected before effecting power output. It is best to inject where it is most effective at lowering intake air temperature since this is what actually prevents detonation.
Yea I'm seeing that... Now lol been looking to do this swap on different cars still looking into it I'm going to see if they got one of these chargers around pfft idk with the prices might look at a different project anyways why are the superchargers I have found at the junkyard seem to be no good? I was assuming heat but now I'm thinking oil. That's totally different I'm thinking he won't actually have any heat issues on the supercharger itself.
to add more confusion for you i can also give you the breakdown of my set ups over the years.
(yes i know the motors are different but it will give you a idea on where you might want to go)
302 - EEm90 using a lightning 90mm maf, 42 ford injectors, 255 walbro pump, around 9 lbs of boost with the smallest pulley (i think 2 inch)
302 - m112 same as everything above but 2.8 pulley close to around 8-9lbs of boost
347 - m112 went to a PMASS MH90 90mm Universal 3000 KG/HR MAF, 60lb FAST injectors, same fuel pump, AEM meth kit around 6-7 lbs of boost (boost dropped i believe because of motor displacement.
347 - m122 took the meth kit off because it is intercooled, everything else is the same 10-11 lbs of boost
dono is mostly responsible for my tuning. he did have some problems at first with the maf with the values if i remember correctly. i was almost pegging the lightning maf and thats why i switched. the injectors pretty much the same reason. didnt want to lean the motor out. as for the meth kit, the AEM controller could be wired to the maf, or have a vacuum line ran to it for boost reference. i went that route. you could also set when it turned on when it saw a certain amount of boost, and also how fast it came in. i did however use snow performance jets in it and nozzles because the AEM ones broke easy.
i ran the meth kit before the blower, in front of the throttle body blade to be exact. the reason for that was so the IAT saw the meth kit cooling the air. i have however heard, and everyone is different that spraying before the blower can peal any Teflon off the rotors. it will cool the blower, but how much did it cool the compressed air coming out, that i will never know.
I ran a Kenne Bell 2.2L Blowzilla/Flowzilla combo with ported lower intake and heads at 16 psi with 42lb injectors on my 5.0L for several years. The 47lb injectors should be more than enough. Are the 47#'ers already on the engine? If not then the MAF will need to be recalibrated but this can be done with the tune. The KB blowers are twin screw designs and are more efficient than Roots blowers. I could run 8-10 psi with no cooling measures as long as the tune accounted for the increased intake air temps. At 9.5 psi with a Roots I would be somewhat concerned about detonation without cooling. If you aren't goming to run an aggressive tune then you might not need any.
I started out injecting alcohol for cooling and it worked good. Over time me and my Mustang buddies came to realize it was better to just use straight water for cooling. The reasons were water was more effective at lowering temperature because it absorbs more energy flashing from liquid to a vapor than alcohol. Think of how much quicker alcohol evaporates than water and this is why water only is more effective. Second is gasoline has higher specific energy than alcohol. It generates more power at combustion. Replacing gasoline with alcohol lowers power output. Alcohol does increase octane levels to some extent so it has a benefit there. Lastly, spraying alcohol is not tracked by the computer so it can't manage A/F ratios as accurately when spraying alcohol into the intake track unmetered. This was something I just never liked about using alcohol. Also, it takes just a fine spray of water to be effective so a bottle of water will last for quite a while.
Do you know what compression ratio you are running? This has a big impact on what boost levels you can safely run. You should get a larger MAF. For the displacement you are running along with stock heads, throttle body etc. you don't have to go crazy on MAF size. Are you running a stock throttle body? If you are think about upgrading it too. Using a small throttle body makes buying a large MAF fairly ineffective.
Ok guys
I am following the moddbox 9.5 psi build
This configuration is running on mustang rangers with this engine
The #47 injectors are still in the box with the adapters
The throttle body is bigger than my stock but is a stock tb from a 2005 ranger as the moddbox guy said to use for the boost I'm looking to run
I'm gonna ask lasota about the Maf most likely a lightning maf 90mm
Here is the meth water kit I'm looking at
I can put the spray nozzle before or after the blower I was gonna move THE air intake sensor to directly under the blower as their is a pipe plug their now
It sure would be great if @moddbox cold give a Maf suggestions because well he built the kit lol
The SOHC 4.0 has a higher compression that most other Ford engines prior to the later models like the new 5.0 etc. It's above 9.5:1, great for NA regular fuel use, that's a big reason it's more powerful than the 4.0 OHV engine. So the boost level is more than if the compression was lower, the OHV is in the typical 9.0:1 range.
You do need a larger than stock MAF, but the 90mm size like the Lightning will be enough for that 9-10psi boost range. You just need a quality brand unit that has a solid smooth voltage curve.
The SOHC 4.0 has a higher compression that most other Ford engines prior to the later models like the new 5.0 etc. It's above 9.5:1, great for NA regular fuel use, that's a big reason it's more powerful than the 4.0 OHV engine. So the boost level is more than if the compression was lower, the OHV is in the typical 9.0:1 range.
You do need a larger than stock MAF, but the 90mm size like the Lightning will be enough for that 9-10psi boost range. You just need a quality brand unit that has a solid smooth voltage curve.
FREE SHIPPING! Flows More Air. AmericanMuscle now offers the Ford Racing 90mm Lightning Mass Air Meter. The Ford Racing 90MM Mass Air Meter is great for modifie
I recently made the decision to not intercool nor would I use meth/water injection for my daily driver. At least no intercooling for a while.
Intercooling may happen, but would require I make a custom unit and a transfer case upgrade to hold-up to the power.
I do not want to rely on meth/water injection for cooling on a daily basis. My rig does run in boost for long periods when climbing to the west out of Denver and would require a good sized tank. I think it would be an additional thing to go wrong and to deal with for a daily driver. My engine is worth more to me than what would happen at higher boost levels if an inexpensive meth/water injection crapped-out...............................and I was only gaining a few pounds of boost to run it in the first place!
no methanol or maf ECT. I would like to see it at 10psi on a quarter mile though!
modd.me
www.americanmuscle.com
