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Supplementary alternator wiring: 4.0 SOHC

So than an overdrive alt pully will correct the low output problem?
Green you state that you have had problems with using them, what sort of problems?
 



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Yep, to overdrive is to speed up the alternator.

My problem with U/D pulleys were all on stangs. Ford never did have the greatest charging system designs and most of the time their alternators were barely sufficient to supply the vehicle when it was under full load. This changed around the 94-95 model year when everything started getting the 3G high output alternator.

I also would have over heating problems in traffic because of the U/D pulley kits using small crank pulleys and larger water pump pulleys, which slowed down the water pump too much at idle speeds to flow enough coolant. Never tried them on the Ex yet though... the most I would ever put on would be the crank pulley though.
 






All good info
Are the ford charging systems the same for the SOHC engine 99 VS 03?
I ask because with mine, measuring the alt output, at the alt, with a fluke VOM.
At 3k RPM the output at the alt is 14.5, at 1200 RPM it is 14.5, at 700 RPM it is 14.5
at 550 (my idle speed) it is about 14.2, you see a slight drop at the batt.
This is with all OEM pullys
 






I'm not sure of the differences between the 99 and the 03 yet. I would guess that the 03 would have the 6G alternator where the 99 has the 4G. The 6G was a much better design with way better thermal efficiency and output to size ratio. If you take a pic of your alternator and post it I could tell you which you have. I just haven't had the chance to see under the hood of an 03 yet.



The 3G and 4G alternators had a lower setpoint which would explain why Al and myself only see around mid 13VDC when running. The most we should see would be 14.7 at full load and 100% DC. Your 03 probably has the 6G style on it which has a higher setpoint of around 14.5 +/- .5vdc
 






Here ya go
 

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I'll be... its still the 4G alternator package which is exactly the same as the 99's were. Most likely it just has a different regulator package to increase the operating voltage. Ford always did some crazy things with their charging systems, their electrical engineers were terrible up until about the last few years :) The newest 6G alternators are pretty nice and some even use computer feedback regulators which allow the EEC to monitor the system demands and control output and duty cycle.
 






The new wiring resulted in my highway voltage being 13.8 ( up from 13.4 ). The idle voltage is still low 12's.

The new overdrive alternator is still back ordered ( due 3/1/06 ).
 






Here is a graphic display of the voltage ....

(1) at night AC on hi, lights on hi beam at idle

(2) same as above except at 1000 RPM
 

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Would assume that would be the the same result with OEM wirering
 












Al, I had a problem with low voltage when the engine got hot. The internal regulator decreases voltage as it warms up. When I installed an external regulator in parallel with the internal one, it solved that problem. Just to test it, I unplugged the external regulator, and saw about 1 volt, or more of a decrease in voltage instantly. Plugging it back in brought it back up to normal.
 






That 4 gauge battery cable from West Marine looks very much like stock cable that an auto parts store sells. Welding supply houses sell a very flexible 2 gauge wire that is much more flexible. I did all of my heavy gauge custom wiring with ordinary 4 gauge wire from an electrical supply. It is very stiff compared to all of these other types, but is the cheapest, and most readily available.
 






Al what brand gauges you got?

I see the voltmeter, whats the other one? temp?
 












couldnt i use 4 gauge wire from a pair of jumper cables to do this? i feel like thats most readily available since i have a set of unused ones in my garage. coudlnt i strip them and pop on some ring terminals?
 












question is. since i have them would it be cheaper?
 






I use to have terrible charging problems on my Sport. I recommend everyone just bite the bullet and get a higher output alt. You will not regret it, anything is better than coming out to a dead battery.

I got a 250 amp setup from motorcityreman.com, like 5 years ago, great service, and quick shipping! By far one of the best things for these vehicles.... Paired with a 0g upgrade, this thing cranks out the power!

http://motorcityreman.com/high-amp-alternators-ford-cars---trucks-explorer.html

They also have other options for lower amp alts, if needed.
 






i put a 200 amp alternator on mine and also upgraded my primary ground and positive wiring from alternator to battery all to 2/0 guage wire... its a bit massive, but it definitely charges!!
 



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Hopefully I'm going to be doing this later today. But I have a question, and it should be pretty simple.

You said you connected it to the B+ side of the alternator, would that be where you have a nut holding down a wire with a terminal on it? I'm thinking it has to be, cause that's the only place I'd be able to connect additional wire.

Edit: Just went out and checked it real quick, the area I was talking about, is a wire with a terminal on it held down with a nut that just screws down. That wire leads to the starter solenoid on the fender wall near the battery, and is a black wire with a red stripe on it. Is this a ground wire or power wire? I don't want to add wire and connect it to the wrong area...

Edit 2: Looked on Autozone's website for the repair information for the alternator, and the B+ side is the terminal I'm thinking of. So just add wire from that to the POSITIVE battery terminal? i wonder why the wire is black then...
 






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