Supposing I remove my heads...

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

Never done it before.

Went to the junk yard today and pulled an intake manifold for the pure heck of it, just because in the future I plan to do my gaskets. I didn't want my vehicle to be the first I've ever torn the intake off of. It was dead easy.

Tomorrow I may go back and pull the heads just to see what the fuss is all about. Granted it's a whole lot easier when you don't care at all if you break something, because you know a forklift is running through the side of it in a week.

Now, supposing I pull the heads from my engine, what type of maintenance or checks should I perform while I have her opened up? What should I clean/ polish/ paint/ replace?

Of course I'm a YouTube shadetree warrior, so I'll watch all the precautionary videos and cover/ protect what needs protecting. I'll label what needs labeling, and I'll organize all my bolts in a cardboard sheet, marking which order they came out in.

But seriously, once it's all opened up what should I do?

And yeah I'll have someone helping me find TDC when I need it. I know it always comes apart easier than it goes back together.

 

[mbrando1994]

Well, for starters replace both head gaskets. I'm glad you got the intake off with ease, my v6 proved to be a challenge with clearances to get the torx bolts out. It is always my best recommendation to practice repairs and removals on junkyard vehicles. You're not only helping people out who need those parts (if you leave them already unattached), but you're also gaining knowledge on cars that ultimately no one cares about anymore, which is much better than breaking something or making a mistake on your own or a customer's car.

While you're in there, and before you go in there, clean the entire area with a degreaser. You don't want dirt and grime getting in the internal areas of the engine. I would advise against painting unless it's going to be done on say the valve covers or what not, even then I would just recommend cleaning. A good clean can make anything shine. I would do most of my work with gaskets, upper and lower (or just one on some models) intake gasket(s), thermostat and gasket, timing (this is a complicated one if never before performed so only do it if you're confident); the timing on these tends to go in the upper 100xxx mile range. It can be a real pain and will usually blow your engine if left go to the point of failure. If you're opening up the engine that far and/or removing it, I'd recommend removing it and replacing all timing components if you have high mileage.

Do a check on the rockers and make sure they all look good, if not, replace them all. Ultimately though, any gasket you come in contact with in there should be replaced. Don't forget about the O-rings that sometimes fit around studs and bolts to seal intakes and whatnot. Also, look into replacing the PCV valve, EGR valve (if you have related symptoms), and the valve cover gaskets. I would also recommend doing a complete coolant change (don't put the old fluid back in). Read the manual and make sure you're using the right stuff. If I remember the ex uses something that begins with 'Dex'.. it's been a while. Other than all that you should be running like new if there's no other issues. Obviously if you know a lot about engines and you already have it torn down that far, might as well just rebuild it if you have the money. Better to do things all at once rather than put it all back together to have a different issue one month later.

Best of luck

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

Well, for starters replace both head gaskets. I'm glad you got the intake off with ease, my v6 proved to be a challenge with clearances to get the torx bolts out. It is always my best recommendation to practice repairs and removals on junkyard vehicles. You're not only helping people out who need those parts (if you leave them already unattached), but you're also gaining knowledge on cars that ultimately no one cares about anymore, which is much better than breaking something or making a mistake on your own or a customer's car.

While you're in there, and before you go in there, clean the entire area with a degreaser. You don't want dirt and grime getting in the internal areas of the engine. I would advise against painting unless it's going to be done on say the valve covers or what not, even then I would just recommend cleaning. A good clean can make anything shine. I would do most of my work with gaskets, upper and lower (or just one on some models) intake gasket(s), thermostat and gasket, timing (this is a complicated one if never before performed so only do it if you're confident); the timing on these tends to go in the upper 100xxx mile range. It can be a real pain and will usually blow your engine if left go to the point of failure. If you're opening up the engine that far and/or removing it, I'd recommend removing it and replacing all timing components if you have high mileage.

Do a check on the rockers and make sure they all look good, if not, replace them all. Ultimately though, any gasket you come in contact with in there should be replaced. Don't forget about the O-rings that sometimes fit around studs and bolts to seal intakes and whatnot. Also, look into replacing the PCV valve, EGR valve (if you have related symptoms), and the valve cover gaskets. I would also recommend doing a complete coolant change (don't put the old fluid back in). Read the manual and make sure you're using the right stuff. If I remember the ex uses something that begins with 'Dex'.. it's been a while. Other than all that you should be running like new if there's no other issues. Obviously if you know a lot about engines and you already have it torn down that far, might as well just rebuild it if you have the money. Better to do things all at once rather than put it all back together to have a different issue one month later.

Best of luck

Great reply.

I have watched maybe six hours worth of YouTube videos on timing jobs for this engine, so I have a fair handle on what's involved, at one point I thought I had some timing chain noise but it was my torque converter. I'm sort of tone deaf for vehicle noises.

But I'm of the mindset, like you, if it's open it should be replaced/ overhauled. It's a fifteen year old vehicle, so I like to know when the parts were replaced even if they don't look worn. Certain stuff like injectors are a wait until they break scenario because for one they're easy, and for two they're expensive. I'll probably clean them up and replace the o rings though, while I have it all apart.

One question, specifically about degreaser. I'm very interested in using the proper chemicals. I've read that simple green will chew through our aluminum blocks. Is brākleen a good option, or is there another better degreaser that people typically use? I typically clean EVERYTHING with brākleen, unless it's strictly plastic parts, but even then I sometimes hit it, because it's so effective.

Side story, solvent related... I was cleaning up the contacts on a little AAA battery headlamp yesterday and I decided to blast the battery terminals with crc Lectra-Motive. The plastic didnt like that AT ALL. I went to close the battery door, and the hinge was broken. Weird. Looked closer and gave it a little squeeze, all of the plastic housing was turning to dry mush. So that stuff probably won't be getting much use

 

[Joe in NY]

Well.. Gasoline and Diesel are great degreasers. They also sell engine degreaser by the gallon at auto part stores. Could probably use lacquer thinner though a paint gun. Bet that would work really well

 

[Number4]

Why would you pull the heads on your engine?

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

Why would you pull the heads on your engine?

Hi Number4. Great question. Ready for the answer?

Because when the guys I paid to swap my engine did the job, they seem to have acted like it was a speed run and they needed to get the job done before their crack dealer arrived.

Essentially everything they SPECIFICALLY told me has turned out to be a lie.

They said my exhaust manifolds were rock solid, but at least two studs are snapped, and one of the flanges is broken. This is specifically why I'm looking at taking the heads off. So that I can extract the studs and put new manifolds on the right way.

They also told me they inspected my timing components and the guides and tensioners look good. That's a great thing to hear, but seeing as how everything they told me was BS, I can't take their word on it, and my peace of mind requires that I look for myself. And if I'm looking, I might as well replace them.

I'm sure by now you're curious about the various lies I've had to uncover over the past year, so here goes. And before you roast me for my ignorance, this has been my first vehicle in six years. When I got it, I was very rusty and out of practice with general repairs/ what to look for. Also, I wanted to trust them and they said all the right things (and did all the wrong things).

• They sawzalled out my engine crossmember and when I found the stumps they told me it was a non-essential counterweight
• They broke the bolts on my transmission crossmember and only left it attached by 2 out of 8 bolts
• They charged me twice to recharge the AC without locating the leak. They said sometimes it just needs more filling than expected because it's a big system
• They claimed to have replaced the intake manifold, water pump, oil pump, oil pan gasket, but all of those components are original, and the oil pan gasket leaks
• They lost my bellhousing inspection plate
• They screwed up my wiring harness, and had cylinders firing out of order
• The claimed to have given me all new plugs and coils, but the components were clearly ancient

The list goes on and on, but these are some of the highlights. So you ask why I want to pull my heads... The answer is peace of mind.

 

[Number4]

If I recall this work was done some time ago. Do you have any legal recourse?


The heads are a relatively easy job. Too much to list and really a job for someone that is a problem solver/critical thinker. IMO. Write ups on this could lead individuals into a job that's over their head. You see these vehicles on CL from time to time.

Messing up your timing is your biggest concern.

Once you've gotten down to the heads and timing components, everything else removed, then there are some steps that are critical.
1. Don't remove the timing tensioners until all the followers have been removed.
a. remove them using the flathead screwdriver method (small pry bar)
b. buy the $100 tool to compress the valves.

2. Place your crank in position with the crank holding tool and the tab on the block. Make sure the timing marks on the cam gears are in proper position. Using a black sharpie, make multiple alignment marks on the cam, lobes and heads. This will allow you to realign the cam if it rotates. I bought the cam holding tool and used it, but it wasn't necessary having used the black sharpie. Even after cleaning the heads, the marks stayed. I was just careful when working around them and freshened them up at times.

3. Now that the followers are out, and you've marked the cams, you can remove the timing components [tensioners, chains and guides. (On a 200k engine, I reused the gears and chains as they looked fine.)]
NOTE: Before you remove any of the front end timing stuff in 3 above, lock the crank in place with the crank holding tool and the tab on the block.
From this point on, pay very close attention to the rotation of the crank, you want it right where it was when you undid the timing.

Have a cherry picker/engine hoist on hand (with a load leveler) to help remove and more importantly, reinstall the heads. Especially if doing this solo.

There's head drain ports on both sides of the block. The drivers side is easy to get to, the passenger side not so much. Removing these prior to removing the heads will keep anti freeze from filling the cylinders.

Chase all threads:
Harmonic balancer removal threads prior to trying to remove (there's three)
Head bolt threads in block
Valve cover bolt threads in heads
Basically, any bolt hole should be chased with a bottoming tap. Us clean oil as the cutting agent to help collect any crud. Shouldn't be too much as these are aluminum blocks.

How do you chase the cylinder head bolts you ask?
Take an old head bolt, thread a die all the way down/up it (whatever your point of view is.) Then, using a grinder or cutting tool, with an 1/8" cutoff wheel or so, cut a straight line (as straight as you can) down the threads. Clean up threads by removing the die. Now you have your own thread chaser that will reach the threads in the block.

This is just some quick info from memory while at work. This is not a comprehensive list by any means.

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

If I recall this work was done some time ago. Do you have any legal recourse?

Thanks for the great reply.

This fouled up engine swap job is what originally brought me to the forums. Is there any legal recourse? Probably, but I'm just moving forward.

A lot of the mistakes they made were things a more experienced person would have recognized right away. So I'm taking the whole thing as a learning experience.

It's in much better shape now than it was when I purchased it, and I know a lot more about the vehicle. So in some way I'm thankful for their mistakes. Not that I'll ever do business with them again.

I'm a very meticulous problem solver. I welcome the challenge, and I'll work methodically And label everything. Luckily I work from home, and can bike or take the train when I need to, so the engine is okay to be out of commission for a while.